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I don't have a second generation carburetor, but do you still have yours? If you do have it it may just need rebuilding which is a relatively simple process. It seems complex until you get into it. I'm sure some have those here, but it would be best if you could fix the one you've got, (if you've got one). Please never throw away an "old" carburetor! They are getting more and more rare.
Perhaps you even live close to a member that can assist you with the rebuild. In what area of the country do you live?

 

Thank you for your reply. I ordered a rebuild kit and replaced the old hardware with what they provided. I live in south west Florida. The carb pours gas from the overflow and out my air box. I’m not sure what to doo

 

The float valve is stuck. Remove the bottom of the carb (bowl) so you can access the float, pin, and valve. Check the float to see if it has gas in it. If it does, you will need to replace it. If you don't see any gas in the float, pour some gas in a clean container, immerse the float completely and hold it there for a minute or two. Look for bubbles. No bubbles = float is good. If the rebuild kit came with a float valve and you didn't use it, install it now. Check the float pin and be sure it is straight. Install the valve on the float and secure the float with the mounting pin. The float and pin should move freely and the valve should automatically center itself in its seat. If everything checks out, reinstall the removed parts. If things don't move easily, check the "wings" of the float where the pin slides through. Sometimes these get bent/misaligned and will interfere with proper movement of the float. Wouldn't hurt to polish the float valve seat while you have it apart if that hasn't been done. A Q-tip dipped in metal polish works well. Mounting the Q-tip in an electric drill speeds up the process.

FYI, I never use the replacement jets or other hardware unless the old ones are damaged or suspect. Just clean the old ones and reinstall. The replacement hardware, especially the needle jet and needle jet seat, often differ from the OEM parts.

Check to be sure gas hasn't made its way to the crankcase. If the oil level is too high and smalls of gasoline, drain and replace the oil before starting the engine. The oil level is checked with the bike level (not on side stand) and the dipstick unscrewed and just resting on the threads.

 

I replaced the float valve. I’m assuming that’s the part that’s connnected under neath the float it’s self. Nothing is resistant and nothing seems to be stuck or broken so I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong.

 

You may not be doing anything wrong. Float valves sometimes stick for no logical reason. Next time it does it, tap on the bowl with a screwdriver handle. That often unsticks them. Be sure to turn the petcock to the off position when parked to avoid overflow.

 

As soon as I turn the petcock on all my gas comes out the over flow. Like it doesn’t stop even when I start the bike. And now I have no gas in the tank. After I rebuilt everything it still leaked all out. I even pour a carb cleaner concentrate and still leaked all out.

 

flitecontrol is right. The float valve isn't seating correctly if the gas just runs right through. You'll need to pull the bowl and check it again.
Ditto on keeping the original brass in the carburetor too!
When you 'tap' the bowl, do it firmly but never with anything metal. The screwdriver handle tap does sometimes loosen it.

 

Also ensure the flange on the metallic end of the float valve has been slid into the retaining slots on the float. If it hasn't, the valve won't seal properly.

 

Place an inline filter between petcock and carb.
A single speck of rust can keep needle from fully closing..