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85 CMX 250C, 82 GW Remember that you are invisible, treat all others accordingly. Avoids Road RAGE!
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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Thanks, I was walking back from my van and caught that sight. Is that what the 125 motor looks like or what?
 
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85 CMX 250C, 82 GW Remember that you are invisible, treat all others accordingly. Avoids Road RAGE!
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Actually, the 250 Rebel and the 125 Rebel weigh almost the same (the 125 being 5# heavier from the sites I visited). I wonder if they just bored out the engine bigger for the 250 Rebel. It seems close to the same size external dimensions. I have no idea as they were never sold where I live. 11 HP vs 16-20HP. I can see why they'd be a little (pun intended) slower.
 
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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
I think they just underbored the 125 from a 250 for licencing issues in many countries. Talk about over engineering. I looked it up, 44x41 bore/stroke vs the 250's 53x53 so different crank too at least.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
This afternoon I went out and spent some time with this bike before I ran out of daylight. I swapped over the handlebar switches, throttle tube and throttle cables. I moved the battery box and air box, and the wiring harness. Also the rear brake switch and spring.

*** I'm having a little trouble wrapping my head around the way the switch's spring is supposed to attach to the brake rod pivot. When the pivot turns and the rear brake is actuated, the spring doesn't pull the brake switch plunger and the geometry is way off. I was running out of daylight and gave up, I wonder if maybe I grabbed the 750Nighthawk brake pivot & rod that came with the forks by accident?
I'll have to try swapping them to see if there's any improvement.

No pictures today sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
As it turns out I did grab the brake pivot and actuator rod from the 750.


Today I added the cheapest Chineseium LED turn signals I could find, I think I got 4 of these and an appropriate flasher shipped for ~$7 from eBay in early 2017.
These predate the current offering that strobe like a late model Mustang rear signal, these aren't bendy either, but they look better than I'd hoped.

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85 CMX 250C, 82 GW Remember that you are invisible, treat all others accordingly. Avoids Road RAGE!
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So long as they are HIGHLY visible, they should be good. I firmly believe in being seen & not heard. (Not remnants of a strict childhood).
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Just a small update today.

I tipped Nighthawk #2 over to have a look at stealing its kickstand, as it turns out the kickstand on these bikes is mounted on a little frame that bolts directly to the engine cases (cases are split left and right on these engines) so with no engine to bolt to I just cleaned it up a little and bolted it back under #2's engine for now. I'll need to look for a longer side stand probably, or extend one of these.



I swapped out the speedometer drive for an 18" 750 NH wheel with the older CBR600F1 model I'd picked up, my speedometer should now be accurate with this 17" wheel.

The wider spacer I'd hoped to fit between the front wheel and right side fork was wrong again, not quite sure where to look next, eBay probably.

Then I threaded the shortened and DIY zinc electroplated studs back into the sprocket carrier, double nutted them and cranked them in the remainder, then I placed the sprocket nuts on them so they can't get lost. The studs miss the swingarm by 1/8".


 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
EBay purchases are arriving and I'll be assembling my front brake system soon. I've got stock CB750 Nighthawk 91-03 Caliper, new seals if necessary, Honda banjo bolts, new copper washers, Stock 11mm master cylinder, Stock rubber brake line and a set of long FX CNC adjustable brake & clutch levers in silver with silver adjusters.

I'll have to remove the front brake lever perch from the right hand switch pod, so a little cutting and filing will be needed, but I want to keep the switches original, reliable and stock so that they'll plug into the harness without splices and work just like a stock bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
I've just ordered up some aluminum folding footpegs that'll mount at the location of the stock mounting bolts, & not reach forward 4 inches like the stock steel ones do.
*And I've also ordered a pair of vibration dampening plates (from the remote control aircraft/camera world) that I'm hoping to adapt to my top triple to mount my (cheapest of the cheap Chinesium) mini-tach & mini-speedometer, so they don't rattle themselves to bits.
 
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