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I backtracked through this thread and see you mated a CBR front end to the bike, are you planning on adding the second disc back on at some point? You know, so you can eventually become proficient at endos? :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Its actually a 91-03 CB750 Nighthawk front end, the wheel is CBR600F1 circa 1987. No provision for right caliper mounting on these forks. I ran this wheel and tire size for a few weeks on my 750 Nighthawk once, it was wonderful with the single disc. I'm sure it'll be even better on a bike 250lbs lighter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
The Works may have eaten rust once, but now it's pretty tame. Fender has been sanded and waits for painting when the time is right.
Front end is early 91-03 CB750 Nighthawk with drain bolts not CBR, no 2nd caliper mounts, no stunt riding anyway. Front wheel is early CBR600 like 1987 early running just the left disc.
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Long overdue update:
I built a sheetmetal brake and bent up my rear bodywork on Feb 4th it looked like this:

It's been a while now and I've set and reset valve clearances, rebuilt the clutch and checked the oil pump, everything is still in spec, I'll be polishing some engine covers before reassembling and I've just built a stand for my polisher so I can use it outdoors on sunny days later this spring.
But today I did some trimming on the aluminum bodywork, except for some edge sanding and maybe polishing it up, this is how it'll stay:

And I'm thinking g turn signals will go here:
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I just realized I've had this bike for 5 years this fall. I made some good progress but admittedly I spent more time ignoring it than working on it.

Right now we're moving to a new apartment and I'm finally getting out of my basement workshop. Unfortunately all of my parts hoard, tools, and 5 project bikes are moving into a 10x10 storage unit. The only way I'm going to be able to make it work is to start finishing my projects, assembled bikes take up less space, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
In another thread I was musing about sprocket changes. For this bike I'll be keeping the stock 14t sprocket, but out back with the 750Nighthawk rear wheel the best I can do without a custom sprocket is 5 up from stock (33t) at 38t.
I'm figuring the bike will be quicker to rev and will top out at a lower speed than a stock bike, but there are power advantages to staying in the higher revs, and having more gears to use at higher revs is appealing for spirited back road riding.

But the difference in rear tire was a variable that I had never really calculated to determine its effect on gearing, I didn't know if it'd make it worse, or calm it down closer to stock.

I've found this webpage
, not specific to bikes but applicable nonetheless.
It calculates stock 120-90/16 as:
24.5" diameter, 76.98" circumference.
It calculates my 130-70-17 as:
24.17" diameter, 75.92" circumference.

So I'm running 5 teeth more rear which will cause higher revs in top gear and lower top speed.
And I'm using a slightly smaller rear tire than stock.

I found this other page which calculates gear ratio changes with tire size changes:

Stock gearing ratio 33÷14= 2.357

My gearing ratio 38÷14= 2.714


According to the calculator at tire size.com, stock ratio at the pavement is 2.38 with a stock tire and 2 stock sprockets.

With my changes in rear sprocket size and tire size, it says my new ratio is 2.75

Wow, so it makes it worse, Ok. So it'll be more of a backroad/hooligan bike spending more time in the higher revs and producing more horsepower in lower gears at lower speeds.

I wonder if it'll lift the front wheel? Second gear starts will probably be easier, first gear will be for tree climbing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Wow, long time between updates. We've survived Covid free, been furloughed and back to work, changed jobs, my gf closed her Salon and then some moron bought the building we'd been renting in for 10 years...so new apartment, no workshop, everything in storage...

This afternoon I dug the 250s frame out of storage, found my swingarm seals & steering bearing seals, front & rear wheels, forks.... But not the paint I bought this summer back before every spray-paint aisle went bare.

I've got the frame and stuff here at the apartment so I can work on it whenever. I've got some disassembly and cleaning to do, some parts will be flat black, some gloss black, and some Stainless Gray if I can find it. I'd love to make it a roller before the warm weather is gone, I'm not afraid to leave it under a cover all fall and winter to work on it whenever I can.

I'm hoping for the best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Ah. 69 degrees and 53% humidity. I found the Rustoleum 7887830 Stainless Steel Appliance epoxy paint that I picked up this summer and started at about 1pm with just brake cleaner and paper towels followed by 150 dry paper and a liberal application of brake cleaner. I only had 2 "oops moments" forgot to mask the vin tag but caught it before I sprayed over it, and the top triple that I'd sprayed Stainless was supposed to be flat black, both easily remedied.
 

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85 CMX 250C, 82 GW Remember that you are invisible, treat all others accordingly. Avoids Road RAGE!
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Moving right along! Keep the pics coming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Steering stops are in, they're about 1.5" high and should do fine, too dark and damp to put it back together tonight. I used 5/16-24 grade 8 bolts, 2" long. The triple drilled so easily, and tapped easily too. One side is perfect but the other slants out about .060"
Gas Nickel Thumb Metal Household hardware
Wood Cylinder Musical instrument Metal Human leg
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Tuesday's update. Sheltered from direct rainfall I was able to pack the tapered rollers with grease and install the triples for the last time. I test fitted my steering stop bolts without their nuts and the bolt heads contacted the frame stops, back on went the nuts and a little red loctite. The shafts of the bolts contact the frame stops, and there's plenty of room between the fork tubes and tank at full lock on both sides.

The front wheel was less fun. Turns out I'd grabbed the wrong speedometer drive (this one's for an 18" wheel) and the wrong spacer too (too narrow) so I'll have to make a trip back to storage. But it's on there for photos anyhow.
The rear end of the frame is sitting on the ground, so don't mind the fork angle.

I'll have to find a block of wood to set the frame on, or hang it from a tiedown strap (more likely) to get that rear wheel on. Still no sign of a kickstand at storage.

Wheel Tire Vehicle Bicycle tire Automotive tire

Wheel Tire Vehicle Bicycle tire Automotive tire

Automotive tire Gas Tints and shades Metal Audio equipment

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Rim Synthetic rubber

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Ok, Friday's update.
I was able to do a little assembly this afternoon. This is a CB750 headlight with some fork ears I made in 2008, all painted the same color as the wheels. I bolted on the rear wheel and connected the linkage and brake stay. I bolted on the right foot peg, but the left I'd found turned out to be from a different bike. I added the washers and nuts to the upper shock mounts, stretched the bottoms of the gaiters over the tops of the fork lowers and set the front fender in place, it's going to take a little work to make it fit.

Tire Wheel Plant Vehicle Automotive lighting

Tire Wheel Bicycle tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle

Wheel Tire Bicycle tire Plant Vehicle

Tire Wheel Plant Vehicle Automotive tire

Wheel Tire Land vehicle Vehicle Bicycle frame

Wheel Tire Land vehicle Vehicle Car

Wheel Tire Plant Vehicle Automotive tire

Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle Automotive lighting

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Tire Wheel Car Land vehicle Vehicle
 
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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
No it's chain driven, what you see at the sprocket carrier is where I've milled it down to keep the chain inline. Lots of things for this bike are in different boxes and tubs that were hurriedly removed from my previous basement shop. So I'm trying to install what I can from the stuff I've found...in some semblance of order. I've got the rear sprocket, unfortunately the mounting studs are MIA so far.

For instance, I'd really like to have a kickstand on it at this point.
 

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I was thinking what I now assume are the cooling fins on the rear drum could have been belt teeth.
 
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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Tuesday, an update but little progress. I installed the EBay fuel cap and sat the tank and seat on the frame. Fork ears are 3/8" from the tank at full lock on both sides. I sat on the bike for a few minutes and it's tall. I'll flat foot it in boots but in sneakers it's a little tall. It's likely Im going to have to do something about the stock footpeg position, it's just too far forward.
Tire Land vehicle Vehicle Wheel Automotive lighting

Tire Wheel Fuel tank Automotive tire Automotive lighting

Wheel Tire Vehicle Bicycle frame Bicycle tire

Tire Wheel Motorcycle Vehicle Bicycle tire

Wheel Tire Land vehicle Vehicle Car
 

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85 CMX 250C, 82 GW Remember that you are invisible, treat all others accordingly. Avoids Road RAGE!
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You'll not know for sure until the unit is more together.
I think it's a little like a house during construction. It looks small when you see the strings for the lay out, then the footers are poured & the perspective changes. This continually happens during the entire process of construction until you see the finished product.
Point, don't change it just yet. You can start thinking about design changes, but hold off until you see how it feels nearest completion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Still unable to locate the box of parts for this bike, today I hauled a partsbike home from storage to swap over the wiring, airbox, kickstand and probably a few other things I can't think of.
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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
On another thread I was musing with Emil about an exhaust from another Honda that I've had my eye on for a while wondering if I could make one fit a 250NH, well the eBay seller accepted my lowball offer and it'll be here in 8 days or so. I don't want to say much more than that just yet.
 
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