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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
That was actually a dig at the PO, the goofy bastard was wearing star wars pj's at 8pm on the night I picked up the bike.
 

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That was actually a dig at the PO, the goofy bastard was wearing star wars pj's at 8pm on the night I picked up the bike.
When early you must wake, this you shall learn, when my age you become, mmmmh?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
Friday I got all of my fork parts cleaned up and ready to reassemble, they'd been apart and stored for several years and I'd never really cleaned them up. I used a big aluminum foil pan from a dollar-store and poured in half an inch of simple green then 2 more inches of tap water. I put in everything but the fork tubes and lowers and let them soak for 15 minutes before I started scrubbing them one at a time with green scotchbrite, rinsing with fresh tap water and towel drying each part. I really don't want anything to rust. Then I did the lowers, and then the fork tubes themselves. Its a bit difficult drying out the inside of the fork tubes, I stuffed a twisted rag in there but they still weren't as dry as I'd have hoped, so I sprayed them inside with wd-40 and left it at that. I'll let them air dry for a few days before getting back to them.
I picked up a set of cartridge emulators from an eBay seller, they're made by V-Twin Mfg and they're listed for Harleys with 41mm Showa forks. They measure 33mm in diameter, just a bit too small to fit correctly on these damper rods, so I'll be making up some adaptor rings to fit them properly. For about one third the price of Racetech emulators, i'll make them work.



 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
These cartridge emulators fit my damper rods like this:



So I needed to make some adaptor rings to help them fit better:





Plenty of room for the springs to sit on top of the emulators too:



Racetech says to start the adjustment at 2 turns past where spring tension begins, I've asked a few friends and read a bit on the web and everyone says it's a little stiff for mixed street riding so I set them at 1.5 turns to start with.



The nylon lock of the check nut is fully seated on the adjustment screw, and the nut is tight against the valve body. It took several tries to get them the same, lots of room for error here.

Next up is to drill out the oil holes in the stock damper rods
 
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I found some free time the other day and modified the fork damper rods per the Racetech directions by adding a third 5/16" hole.



Then I assembled the forks and filled with Dextron ATF, it's cheap and I had it handy.













The front wheel is from a 1987 CBR600F, 17" x 2.5", same axle, same caliper, same rotor...

The 750 forks are 1/2" longer than the 250's stockers.

Front tire is 110-80-17 (23.92" diameter) and rear is 130-70-17 (24.16" diameter)
 
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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Thanks man, I have to ask about your username, is that a Ford truck thing or what?


From the Racetech instructions, it sounds like the additional holes increase oil flow during fork compression.

"Drill additional compression holes in the damping rod. You
will add 5/16 inch (8 mm) compression holes at the bottom of the
damping rods so there is a total of 6 on each damping rod. The
exact size of the holes is not critical. It is only important to have
enough flow, more than enough does not hurt."
 

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Thanks man, I have to ask about your username, is that a Ford truck thing or what?


From the Racetech instructions, it sounds like the additional holes increase oil flow during fork compression.

"Drill additional compression holes in the damping rod. You
will add 5/16 inch (8 mm) compression holes at the bottom of the
damping rods so there is a total of 6 on each damping rod. The
exact size of the holes is not critical. It is only important to have
enough flow, more than enough does not hurt."
Yup, good guess :grin2: - 2001 Ford F150 7700 GVW
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
great pics

a 3rd hole is widely known to be advantageous in many aspects
Wow, tame forum. Or nobody's paying attention....
anywho....
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At this point in the build I'm starting to get curious about what the bike is beginning to weigh, I know it's far from complete but for curiosity's sake here it goes.

I did a little research and I know it's not a very accurate method, but for a rough idea at the weight I'll be using a bathroom scale under the front wheel, then under the rear wheel, and adding the two. I came up with 108lbs under the front and 127lbs under the rear wheel for a total of 235lbs.
Stock dry weight is 291lbs. Which leaves 56lbs to go including drive chain,handlebars,controls,front brake system,footpegs,shift and brake levers,rear brake stay rod and linkage,carb,airbox,electrics,lights and battery.

I don't have a stock set of wheels with tires mounted here to weigh against the alloys so that'll have to wait until I've gotten some out of storage. The freshly rebuilt and filled 41mm front forks with all four axle pinch bolts installed came in at 18lbs, the dirty old stockers wieghed in at 13lbs. I didn't compare stock lower triple with the 41mm triple but i'm sure there's a pound or 2 difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Found a little time the other day to finish grinding the tabs from the frame tail and mount up an old CB750K rear fender. I used the original mounting holes in the fender and the original holes in the frame, I enlarged the holes and filed the weld-nut off and the fender went right in with minimal tweaking, another hole a bit to the rear and some nuts and bolts made it rock solid and straight.

 

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Are you planning on restoring the chrome or painting/powder coating the fender?
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I'm planning on painting this fender, the chrome is terrible.
I'm not sure just how I'll strip the chrome, does 'the works' toilet cleaner still eat chrome or have they changed the formula?
I'd hate to have to sand it all off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I've read in several places that it will strip chrome, but they're all old forum posts, I think The Works formula had changed at some point and the cap color had switched to green. I'll try it anyway and report back here with any results.

Its possible to electrolytically strip the chrome, but that's totally toxic, like kill the whole town toxic..
So I'll sand it if needed.
 
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