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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey! I'm a Newbie to these forums, I'm a mechanic working on my friends wife's 250. I'm replacing a broken exhaust stud. I noticed the collars that hold the pipes to the head are missing. The Orig owner cannot find them in FLA. I'm in Ga. I've been researching on the net and I cannot find OEM. However; I can find others that claim to fit newer 250's. There are lots of 450's available as well.
My Q. is will these others fit? Some claim to fit 125-300cc. I don't need the crush washers or the split rings I have those OEM in hand. What I need is the thicker metal rings that go on first with 2 holes that slide over the studs to hold everything on. I believe p/n needed is 18231-KR3-600 2ea. I wanted to use one to eyeball the hole I'm drilling to make adjustments if necessary. That's when I noticed they were missing.

Thanks,
RK
 

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1985, 86 CMX250C, 81 CM200T, 74 CL360, Invisible to cages, treat them accordingly. Avoids Road RAGE!
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Welcome to the forum Roadking.

That is the best year Rebel IMO!

I've had the studs break on my '85, so I understand the trouble getting the old ones out. It sounds like you've got it broken flush with the head. I was able to get mine out with long nosed ViseGrips. They had a little bit exposed. I've seen a YouTube video of someone using a copper sleeve & welding a bolt to the top.

You can buy exaust collars from partzilla last I checked. #4 in 1st picture. This is the 1985 design, but I believe the collars from any year will work.

The 2nd picture shows the collars better (#2, 2nd gen design). But it shows them installed backwards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you very much for the response.
I would need #3 in left pic or #1 in the right pic.
Can you tell me if those would fit? looks like same thing
 

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I believe that they'll fit. Why they are different part numbers??? It's something that Honda has done for years. With the 1st generation appearing to be unavailable, it is pretty much the only choice.
I thought that you needed the collars, not the flange joint plate. Sorry for the misunderstanding.
I have a set of 1st gen ones that I hope I'll never need, if those don't work. Let me know.
So... you do have the collars? They are what transfers the pressure from the flange plate to the exaust flange, crushing the exaust gaskets into place. Never mind, I just noticed that you called them 'split rings'. I'm blind sometimes. o_O
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
No Sir! My bad not knowing the proper nomenclature. I own 2 '99 GZ 250's that my queen and I ride escorting aircraft at Sun n Fun. This is my first Honda Rebel to tackle. I have the engine removed and I have pin routed the missed drilled pilot hole back to center. Im ready to drill and use a heli coil. Just wanted to hold the flange joint plate over the hole using the opposite stud as a visual guide. I should have a little play but not much.
Ordered the 18231-KEN-670 2ea. via partzilla

Thank you Emil
 

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Often, periodic soaking with penetrating fluid for a couple of days followed by a left hand drill bit will pull what's left of the stud.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update,
My heli-coil kit arrived. Looks fantastic! I've needed one for a while now so this project was as good as any for a reason to order one. Got the black case one from Amazon. It was missing the thread pitch gauges as others who ordered it said, but I have them anyway so no problem. Still waiting on the collars to ship. Supposed to tomorrow. I hope!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Update finally! Received the GenII collars and they fit! So thanks Emil ! I was able to use the collar as a guide and drilled the remaining stud out after using a pin router to recenter the hole after the PO tried to drill it with a small #30 bit.and got it off center. The heli coil went in nice and the stud is slightly tilted but the collar goes on both studs ok. The stud is nice and tight. Now after all this I hope the engine is not siezed!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Removed the spark plugs (the porcelain broke on one), Squirted some penetrating oil in and let it sit overnight. Next day I put her in gear and turned the crank over with a wrench. Turned over just fine! Made several revolutions to ensure all is spinning as it should. Cleaned a bit of dirt and rust off with a dremel and mounted the engine back into the frame last night.
 

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There is no oil filter on these. There is an oil screen inside the clutch cover.
Normally if you change your oil regularly, some do it every 1000 miles, there's no problem.
These engines are pretty bulletproof over 50000 miles.
 
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