Technically they are "off-road" meaning not DOT compliant. Nothing in the specs indicates they have multiple modes, just 2 wires, so you just get FLOOD or off. If you don't aim them way downward to avoid blinding other drivers with 6000L total illumination for the pair, you will get pulled over the first time LEO sees them at night.
3000L is about the brightness of a high-end halogen n high beam or a proper led H4 substitute on high beam.
to be "compliant" you need to add a handlebar switch like this one
so you can turn it on and off as needed.
the specs claim actual power consumption is 10W (about .9 amps) so you should be good for juice with the led main headlight.
the listed 12v-85v means it has its own internal power regulator so it can be connected to just about anything, dirt bike, buggy, atv, tractor, excavator, dumptruck, asphalt paver, golf cart, etc.
In the junction box behind the headlight, find the BLU/WHT wire from the harness, that's the source power for the head light, it goes up the handlebar to the high/low beam switch and comes back on the WHT for low beam or BLU for High Beam.
connect one side of your switch to that BLU/WHT, the other wire from your new switch is now power for your new lights, and there is a 4-way connector with all GRN wires for ground.
purchasing a collection of the 3.8 metric bike bullet connectors male and female would be useful, you can make some Y splitters to tap in easily since every wire in that junction box has them.