'06 Rebel 250 Battery - Page 2 - Honda Rebel Forum
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post #11 of 18 Old 04-10-2019, 09:36 PM
 
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Originally Posted by flitecontrol View Post
Sounds like it would benefit you to keep it on a battery maintainer when you park it at home.
That's certainly on the agenda. Right now I just external-battery jump-start it every time. I figure it's less stress on the battery (no big drain) and less stress on the charging circuit (no big charge). I know these short trips are not so healthy for the engine either, but there we have it.

1986 Rebel 250 / N. California
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post #12 of 18 Old 04-12-2019, 08:09 AM
 
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1) find excuses to enjoy the "long way home"
2) if you can "duck-walk" it fast enough to pick your feet up for a brief coasting, that's fast enough for the rolling-clutch-pop start. don't try to fight that uphill incline when push-starting, turn around and go down-hill instead, lol

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post #13 of 18 Old 04-12-2019, 02:07 PM
 
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1) Ha ha. So I looked that up, turn right instead of left leaving work turns into a 34 mile, 90 minute ride. That's probably 2h in reality. I suppose I could go part way and do a U-turn. I like the way you think sir.



2) Good to know, I could manage that!

1986 Rebel 250 / N. California
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post #14 of 18 Old 04-14-2019, 07:04 AM
 
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An advantage of the Rebel 250 as far as never leaving you stranded, the battery / headlight / starter can be non-functional but the bike will still push start and run just fine. I have actually used this when my battery popped a cell (I have not bought a BikeMaster battery since BTW) and was stone cold dead, none of the accessories worked but the engine ran fine with a push start (which is super easy with this bike), and I was able to get to a garage anyway. Don't forget to use hand signals if forced to do this, the turn signals and brake light are not working either in this state. Once I got to a shop and installed the new battery, everything was back to normal.

I've indeed experienced that in some usage patterns (i.e. slower speeds, short trips) the battery 'input' is exceeded by the 'output' used to start the bike. It takes time for the generator to recharge the battery, it will do it but if your ratio of starts to run time is skewed towards the former, there will be a net loss that will need rectified by external charging. This is true of any bike, generally anyone who needs a tender needs more regular long trips in their riding lives. I've never needed to use a tender on any of my bikes as long as I am actively riding them, but that's easy for me since I live in the sticks and nothing is close.

If going the tender route, don't go cheap. A couple dollar el-cheapo 'trickle charger' will murder an expensive battery, get something with built-in intelligence and it needs to support AGM batteries properly if that is what is installed, a non-AGM tender will cook an expensive AGM battery to death.

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post #15 of 18 Old 04-14-2019, 08:47 AM
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Being a cheapskate, I purchased an el-cheapo trickle charger from China on ebay for less than Harbor freight was selling them. Have used it for several years on two motorcycle AGM and one wet automotive batteries. It has an LED that shows when it's charging and when the battery is charged. So far, it's kept them going. For about $3, I figured if it was junk, I wasn't out much.

Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

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post #16 of 18 Old 04-14-2019, 09:32 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flitecontrol View Post
It has an LED that shows when it's charging and when the battery is charged.
Even though that one is inexpensive it's still a smart enough tender, the LED proving it knows when it is charged and stops feeding power is the functionality that is essential to not cooking batteries. As long as this function kicks in at a low enough voltage and the non-AGM charge cycle isn't used much (i.e. the battery isn't regularly ran flat enough for needing a proper AGM charge cycle to matter), these can be successful if used correctly and within the limits of its capabilities, but the caveats for successful use are more stringent than charger / tenders with more intelligence and a proper AGM charge cycle.

I still recommend more intelligent equipment for most people, it only takes one time a couple dollar tender destroys a $80 battery to make it an ineffective savings, and by spending a few dollars more a combination charger / tender can be had with much more utility than just a tender. Most people's frustrations with batteries are bad tenders wrecking them or using a 'dumb' charger with too many amps to bring them back up after they are flat cooking them to death. Not saying expensive is better, Harbor Freight torque wrenches are excellent while a fraction of the cost of more expensive ones that are not as accurate for example, but I wouldn't play roulette with my battery buying a random unit.

For most people I think a tender at all is overkill. Just disconnect the negative lead from the battery when not using the bike for a few weeks or more, this will eliminate any parasitic draw and doesn't consume electricity constantly to maintain. If a battery doesn't hold a charge for many months with the terminal disconnected, the problem is the battery, not the bike.

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post #17 of 18 Old 04-15-2019, 08:46 AM
 
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I like the Deltran's "Battery Tender" line, $25 is a reasonable investment and they have a solid reputation.

2009 Honda Rebel 250; 2009 Honda Shadow 750 Spirit
"The bravest thing for me to do is admit when I am wrong" - unknown
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post #18 of 18 Old 04-16-2019, 06:52 PM
 
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I have a CTEK that I use for my stored car batteries. It's designed specifically for long-term storage of batteries, and yes, way overkill for a bike, but it does detect these small batteries and adjusts itself accordingly.

1986 Rebel 250 / N. California
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