installing new front brake master cyl - Honda Rebel Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 03-16-2019, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
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installing new front brake master cyl

Do I bench bleed this like a car? Thought I'd fill up the hose running down to the bleeder screw before I screw it on the cyl. Any tips/ideas?

George Penick
2004 Rebel 250
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post #2 of 9 Old 03-16-2019, 08:01 PM
 
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I connect system up completely.. Open caliper bleeder, fill master slowly pump to expel air..
What pumps through starts to fill caliper..
Rock the handle bars left and right as in video..


96 VS800 Intruder (sold 2018 ), 87 CMX250C Rebel,
79 CB400 Hawk (sold 93), 75 CB350 (sold 83), 71 CB350 (stolen 74)
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post #3 of 9 Old 03-18-2019, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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Surprise...........

Brake is working fine- I originally thought the caliper was dragging- and it needed cleaning for sure, and NEW PADS too, but it was the Master that was bad, thought about the kit- but getting that snap ring back in was sure to be very difficult for me; I went for the complete handle w/lever/bolts/and cylinder for $16 delivered to my door, looks good and worked fine, but you can bet I tightened the hold down bolts very carefully! In case anyone else is in need, this is the one I got from Ebay:

https://vod.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrderD...&ul_noapp=true

Now on to the carb cleaning! PS: looks like it will be easiest to pull the carb over on the shifter/left side (once the gas tank and seat are off). CAN SOMEONE COMMENT ON THAT PLAN? I dont plan to remove the cables, just the bowl and jets, then clean the passages w/ cleaner and spray spray spray.

George Penick
2004 Rebel 250
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post #4 of 9 Old 03-18-2019, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 115
Surprise...........

Brake is working fine- I originally thought the caliper was dragging- and it needed cleaning for sure, and NEW PADS too, but it was the Master that was bad, thought about the kit- but getting that snap ring back in was sure to be very difficult for me; I went for the complete handle w/lever/bolts/and cylinder for $16 delivered to my door, looks good and worked fine, but you can bet I tightened the hold down bolts very carefully! In case anyone else is in need, this is the one I got from Ebay:

https://vod.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrderD...&ul_noapp=true

Now on to the carb cleaning! PS: looks like it will be easiest to pull the carb over on the shifter/left side (once the gas tank and seat are off). CAN SOMEONE COMMENT ON THAT PLAN? I dont plan to remove the cables, just the bowl and jets, then clean the passages w/ cleaner and spray spray spray.

George Penick
2004 Rebel 250
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post #5 of 9 Old 03-18-2019, 09:06 PM
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I hope you prove me wrong, but just soaking the jets and bowl and depending on carb spray to do the rest isn't going to clean a very dirty carb. Soaking in Chem Dip for an extended period (48 hours minimum, longer is better) or cleaning it in an ultrasonic cleaner are the most reliable methods.

Removing the tank isn't necessary, but it will give good access to the carb. You can remove the seat(s) and rear tank bolt, loosen the front bolts and place a 2X4 between the tank and frame to give you enough clearance to access the carb. Remove the air filter, loosen the boot clamp and pull the boot back into the airbox. WD-40 helps lubricate the boot and makes moving it easier.

Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

'01 & '09 Rebel 250, '06 Ninja 250, '89 VN 750
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post #6 of 9 Old 03-18-2019, 09:19 PM
 
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yes the carb comes out from left side..
after removing air filter push rubber boot away from carb into air box..
pita to get lip to clear, silicone/wd40 spray will help

Virgin carbs float bowls are well seated.. doubt you will be able to break them loose connected to cables..

screws are JIS (japanese industry standard) cross-head screw.. philips screw drivers have tendency to wallow out head as they don't fit properly.
great deal of pressure in needed to keep them from camming out the screw cross-head.. thus bench or vice needed.. even with a #2 jis dirver those screw heads can be damaged

96 VS800 Intruder (sold 2018 ), 87 CMX250C Rebel,
79 CB400 Hawk (sold 93), 75 CB350 (sold 83), 71 CB350 (stolen 74)
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post #7 of 9 Old 03-18-2019, 09:59 PM
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I recommend using a hand impact screwdriver to loosen those carb screws. I've never damaged a fastener while using one, even with just the correct size Phillips fitting. I don't recommend the Harbor Freight model as it tends to change direction after every hammer blow.

https://www.amazon.com/648002-Dr-Imp...SIN=B004QO9FK2

Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

'01 & '09 Rebel 250, '06 Ninja 250, '89 VN 750
Putting your bike year and model in your signature helps others help you!
Here's how: https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f19/...re-121087.html
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post #8 of 9 Old 03-18-2019, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
 
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impact drivers

Yes, I too have had good luck with those and JUST used mine fr Harbor F for the master cylinder cover. I have two, and used the smaller one. I've also had them change directions but this one didnt last week. I am looking into getting some of those JIS bits- any ideas for some locally vs ordering?

George Penick
2004 Rebel 250
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-18-2019, 11:13 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burrpenick View Post
I am looking into getting some of those JIS bits- any ideas for some locally vs ordering?
Not Locally,, Ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E55DL4I liked it so much ordered another to keep in truck

96 VS800 Intruder (sold 2018 ), 87 CMX250C Rebel,
79 CB400 Hawk (sold 93), 75 CB350 (sold 83), 71 CB350 (stolen 74)
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