Shift linkage rod questions - Page 2 - Honda Rebel Forum
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post #11 of 14 Old 05-08-2018, 12:18 AM
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See this (Harley's apparently have the same type of thing): Broken Harley Shift Linkage ~ Motorcycle Philosophy
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post #12 of 14 Old 05-08-2018, 01:19 AM
 
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It really is a simple process. Since you already replaced the linkage and didn't measure it, here's what I would do.

1. Take out the linkage totally.
2. Adjust your shifter crank as per http://www.hondarebelforum.com/f28/s...ml#post1162593
3. Thread the lock nuts (6mm threads BTW) all the way down.
4. Screw in 1 end of the shift linkage into the shift crank, ONLY 1 turn max, you just want it to catch and not fall out.
5. Screw in the other end of the shift linkage into the shift pedal.
6. Rotate the linkage into both the shifter crank and shift pedal at the same time. Since the crank is forward threads and the pedal is reverse threads, as you rotate the shift rod, it will pull in both ends. Screw them all the way in until they hit the lock nuts.
7. Now slowly turn the rod in the opposite direction until both crank and pedal arm angles are the same as per post 10 previously provided.
8. Lock the nuts on the shift rod in place.

Now, once correctly done, your problems should go away. If you still have problems shifting, please report back. I only ask that if you do have problems, please report if on cold engine, warmed up engine, choke, no choke, etc.
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post #13 of 14 Old 05-08-2018, 09:57 AM
 
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I will politely but firmly disagree on one point here. it's a planar 4 bar linkage (fixed body is the 4th bar).
The link rod and the transmission end arm need to form an approximate 90 angle (eyeball is good enough since it has about a 20 travel) from the center of the stud to the center of the rod/arm pivot point. That way all the push/pull force from the rod translates into a torsional force (twisting the splined stud) without any bending moment added on to the transmission stud.
Think of it like using your foot on a lug wrench to remove a flat tire from your car. stepping down when the wrench is level works best, trying to step down on a lug wrench pointed at the ceiling is useless.
If you are short and need the shift pedal up higher, you can adjust the rod length. At the top of the pedal pull the pedal's arm and the rod should be greater or equal to 45. then check the transmisson end and, if its much off from 90 then adjust it one or two splines and then readjust the rod length to get the pedal to your comfort position.


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post #14 of 14 Old 05-10-2018, 03:13 PM
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*** Update - on my quick fix for a ball joint linkage: A single bread tie lasted me about 30 miles with ~50 shifts, then it broke. I have upgraded from a bread tie to 12 gauge stranded wire with the sleeve still on. So far I've driven over 100 miles with over 100 shifts and there are no signs of it letting up anytime soon.
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