shift linkage rod adjustment - Honda Rebel Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 05-26-2018, 03:21 AM Thread Starter
 
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shift linkage rod adjustment

Hi everybody
I have a 1999 honda rebel 250. i realized that when I removed the linkage with the small arm that connects to the shaft so I could remove the small sprocket cover and reinstalled it back, i noticed that I could no longer shift into 1st or 2nd and when I did manage to make it change gear, it would be a pain to put it back into neutral. I've read the forum and stumbled upon a post with this image. I can't remember who posted it to give proper credit. however, my dilemma is with measuring these angles as trying to shove a protractor up in there to make an accurate angle measurement or trying to make a small little rig to read both angles simultaneously proves too inconvenient. what I was wondering is whether i could make a meaningful and accurate adjustment by using a rod length measurement instead of measuring the angles?

thank you for your time reading this post.
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post #2 of 13 Old 05-26-2018, 08:00 AM
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It doesn't have to be within seconds of arc to work - try doing it by eye. And don't forget to lube up all the pieces that seem to want to be lubed in that assembly.

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post #3 of 13 Old 05-26-2018, 09:04 AM
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Look for some small indentations in the shaft and clamp. Getting those to line up should do the trick. In the future, use a marker to place an X over the shaft and clamp. Makes reassembly very easy.

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post #4 of 13 Old 05-26-2018, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
 
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thank you for replying. thats the weird part. the clamp is properly aligned with the spline shaft. i can tell because the two indentation marks are right on top of each other. but when i try to shift. it feels like its not enough movement to make that click that tells me a gear change happened. i feel as though i might have to adjust the overall length of the linkage rod to get the shifter at the correct angle or height so i can shift. ive search the repair and owners manual but such information is hard to come by.
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post #5 of 13 Old 05-26-2018, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01-7700 View Post
It doesn't have to be within seconds of arc to work - try doing it by eye. And don't forget to lube up all the pieces that seem to want to be lubed in that assembly.
thank you for replying. how off can i be if i went this route?
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post #6 of 13 Old 05-26-2018, 04:20 PM
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You shouldn't be too far off. To answer your original question, from nut to nut on my bike it's a little less than 130mm. Did you lubricate the linkage, including the roller bearing in the left rear side cover?

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post #7 of 13 Old 05-26-2018, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by flitecontrol View Post
You shouldn't be too far off. To answer your original question, from nut to nut on my bike it's a little less than 130mm. Did you lubricate the linkage, including the roller bearing in the left rear side cover?
thank you. I will admit that I cleaned our the cover with degreaser and carb cleaner before I noticed a roller bearing. I didn't spray there directly but it could have had some effect. what kind of lubricant should I use? regular wheel bearing grease? the two linkages that are hidden under the rubber boots have not been lubricated. I wasn't even aware that they should be lubricated. it's my first time working on a bike. I'm used to working on cars.

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post #8 of 13 Old 05-26-2018, 06:05 PM
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Wheel bearing grease is what I use. Clean and lube under the boots, the shifter pivot bolt (#15 in the diagram below) and the roller bearing. There is a groove on the pivot bolt especially for holding grease. The acorn nut, number eighteen, is just a jam nut. Snug it down, but don't over tighten it. I like to use a drop of blue threadlocker to help keep it in place. https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemp...20a28fdb/pedal

You'll be surprised what a difference lubrication will make.

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post #9 of 13 Old 05-26-2018, 09:06 PM
 
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And just in the interest of correct nomenclature.... That bearing in the sprocket cover is called a needle bearing (because the "rollers" are very small diameter like needles) Roller bearing means something totally different.

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post #10 of 13 Old 05-29-2018, 10:33 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metalhead8711 View Post
... the clamp is properly aligned with the spline shaft. i can tell because the two indentation marks are right on top of each other. ....
If the alignment marks are aligned, and the pivot is lubed, you have some lee-way, start with eye-ball good enough to parallel.
Mine had a very short PO, the rod was lengthened considerably to account for short legs and it worked fine for them, I did have to adjust it back down to an angle comfortable for me.

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