Hard shifting when warm - Page 3 - Honda Rebel Forum
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post #21 of 80 Old 07-15-2019, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
 
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My 2004 Rebel manual recommends 10W-40, but also has a chart showing anything from 10W-30 to 20W-50. 10W-30 is only for temperatures below 80 degrees.

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2004 CMX 250 C Rebel--for the fun of it
2001 Honda 750 ACE--for the long rides
2004 Honda Aero 750 (Wife)--what can I say
1985 Yamaha XJ 700--for the old times
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post #22 of 80 Old 07-15-2019, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
 
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White plugs equal lean. If the carb has a pilot screw you might want adjust it about 1/4 turn to richen it. I am not familiar with this carb so someone else will have to tell whether to open or close it to richen the mixture. Donít know what would cause the caulky stuff.

If you have to stand on the shift lever to make it work you have a bigger problem than oil.

tabaka45
2004 CMX 250 C Rebel--for the fun of it
2001 Honda 750 ACE--for the long rides
2004 Honda Aero 750 (Wife)--what can I say
1985 Yamaha XJ 700--for the old times
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post #23 of 80 Old 07-15-2019, 11:53 PM
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My Rebel doesn't get harder to shift when it's warm. I've ridden when it's 105 degrees and use 15W-40 oil. Putting all your weight on the shift lever is going to break something. Toe pressure should be all that's needed. If the clutch lever is properly adjusted and the shift linkage is parallel and lubricated, the problem has to be internal IMO.

Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

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post #24 of 80 Old 07-16-2019, 01:05 AM
 
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So as of this moment linkage is well lubed and silky smooth, bike has fresh 10-40 in it. I will try to ride it to work tomorrow and see what happens. I'm thinking at this moment, tell me if I'm nuts flitecontrol, that maybe I had the wrong weight oil but also I'm thinking from the crap that probably had the float valve leaking is making it run lean from the color of the plugs, what seems to be excessive heat coming off the crank case on my feet (but my air cooled bikes are 50 cc 1 hp and 90 cc 7 hp so my comparisons are limited) and the bluing on the factory headers where they meet the muffler/ double wall ends which is new. If you think that's up the right path I'll leave it till I get the rebuild kit and try again.

Edit


The arm on the shift linkage is probably all adjusted like factory, but the arm on the transmission is probably between 5 and 530 if it should be different I'll adjust that.
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post #25 of 80 Old 07-16-2019, 07:06 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tabaka45 View Post
My 2004 Rebel manual recommends 10W-40, but also has a chart showing anything from 10W-30 to 20W-50. 10W-30 is only for temperatures below 80 degrees.
Any chance you could take photos of these pages from your owners manual addressing oil weight, along with the cover page of your manual showing the model year, and post them here?

That would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

2016 Rebel 250 - - Black
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post #26 of 80 Old 07-16-2019, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Mf11283 View Post
So as of this moment linkage is well lubed and silky smooth, bike has fresh 10-40 in it. I will try to ride it to work tomorrow and see what happens. I'm thinking at this moment, tell me if I'm nuts flitecontrol, that maybe I had the wrong weight oil but also I'm thinking from the crap that probably had the float valve leaking is making it run lean from the color of the plugs, what seems to be excessive heat coming off the crank case on my feet (but my air cooled bikes are 50 cc 1 hp and 90 cc 7 hp so my comparisons are limited) and the bluing on the factory headers where they meet the muffler/ double wall ends which is new. If you think that's up the right path I'll leave it till I get the rebuild kit and try again.

Since the plugs are white, that indicates too little fuel, which leads me to think there may be an obstruction in the carb. Riding in the rain, leaking valves and running lean can all cause blued pipes. Valves that aren't adjusted to specs can also lead to loss of power.


Edit


The arm on the shift linkage is probably all adjusted like factory, but the arm on the transmission is probably between 5 and 530 if it should be different I'll adjust that.
There is a dot on the gearshift arm that should be oriented to match a corresponding dot on the shifter shaft in order for things to be parallel, and shift easily. See diagram here: https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f36/...gram-9155.html

Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

'01 & '09 Rebel 250, '06 Ninja 250, '89 VN 750
Putting your bike year and model in your signature helps others help you!
Here's how: https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f19/...re-121087.html
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post #27 of 80 Old 07-16-2019, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VAReb View Post
Any chance you could take photos of these pages from your owners manual addressing oil weight, along with the cover page of your manual showing the model year, and post them here?

That would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
taking the picture will be easy, figuring out how to post it will be my problem.

tabaka45
2004 CMX 250 C Rebel--for the fun of it
2001 Honda 750 ACE--for the long rides
2004 Honda Aero 750 (Wife)--what can I say
1985 Yamaha XJ 700--for the old times
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post #28 of 80 Old 07-16-2019, 11:20 AM
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taking the picture will be easy, figuring out how to post it will be my problem.
See post #4 here: https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f18/...lly-63753.html

Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

'01 & '09 Rebel 250, '06 Ninja 250, '89 VN 750
Putting your bike year and model in your signature helps others help you!
Here's how: https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f19/...re-121087.html
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post #29 of 80 Old 07-17-2019, 11:03 PM
 
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So I think my shifting is mostly resolved. I looked at the shifter and like flitecontrol said there is a dot on the arm and one on the shaft. When I lined them up it put the arm straight down (I had previously lied I had the arm in about 7 o clock position not 5 but that's where it started) and changed the oil and it shifts good now I dont know if it was the oil change or linkage being set right, but i think the linkage. Now the only issue shifting seems to be me but that's from having a plate in my ankle. It's still gets tighter to shift when its warmed up but you can shift it. I still have questions tho since o was having trouble downshifting too but that wasnt pulling the arm to 9 o'clock where it couldnt do anything, that was pushing right at 6 o'clock. And earlier when I was still looking at the adjustment but not moving anything yet I was talking to a neighbor and tried to find neutral and couldnt kits turned the bike off, went to lean back on the engine and the stupid thing fell into neutral. I'll try to ride it more and see if its sorted out

06 rebel 250 100% stock
82 vespa grande
72 honda ct90
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post #30 of 80 Old 07-18-2019, 12:19 AM
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Glad it's doing better.

Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

'01 & '09 Rebel 250, '06 Ninja 250, '89 VN 750
Putting your bike year and model in your signature helps others help you!
Here's how: https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f19/...re-121087.html
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