Can't get into neutral - Honda Rebel Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 06-25-2018, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Can't get into neutral

Hi

A friend of mine picked up a 2009 rebel 250 the other night (For Free) as I was trying to help her go over the features of the bike I had told her to put the bike in neutral. She couldn't get it into neutral I just figured it was a first time rider issue. I then got on the bike and noticed that the gear shift was 180 degrees inline with the peg and the rear brake peddle had to much play. Tightened the brake peddle a removed a lot of the play and adjusted the gear shift to be at a comfortable angle. test rode it and it shifted fine but still can't get it into neutral, except one time it just shifted into neutral as expected. I can shift it in by hand about 70% of the time. I really need to fix this for her. She doesn't mind holding the clutch in but I would feel better if she had neural being a new rider.

What can I look for or test?
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post #2 of 25 Old 06-25-2018, 08:59 PM
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Welcome. Unless the bike is moving, getting it to shift into neutral can be difficult. If the bike is rolling, even just a little, it should shift into neutral. It's often hard for newbies to find neutral as in addition to rolling, it requires a light touch with the foot. With some experience, she should do fine.

I have to ask why she is shifting into neutral?

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post #3 of 25 Old 06-25-2018, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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just for when she is stopped and we are talking so I can give her my observation from watching her ride
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post #4 of 25 Old 06-25-2018, 09:24 PM
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then she needs to shift into neutral before stopping.

Has she taken a basic rider course? That's the best way to learn the fundamentals.
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Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

'01 & '09 Rebel 250, '06 Ninja 250, '89 VN 750
Putting your bike year and model in your signature helps others help you!
Here's how: https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f19/...re-121087.html
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post #5 of 25 Old 06-25-2018, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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she has but there was issues. she is going back this wekend
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post #6 of 25 Old 06-25-2018, 09:39 PM
 
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When a bike will not go into neutral even with an experienced rider doing all the right things (clutch in all the way, bike rolling forward or backward even slightly while pressing on the lever lightly ) the problem is most likely a dragging clutch caused either by maladjustment, or by one or more warped clutch plates or some other mechanical clutch issue.
Our training fleet had a lot of 2017 Groms that would NOT go into neutral while running. This was a factory defect, not an adjustment problem.
Having said that, it is true that newbies can take a while to develop the knack of shifting into neutral as the bike is stopping, or rolling the bike just a little to find neutral while the bike is stopped.

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post #7 of 25 Old 06-26-2018, 01:57 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duckster View Post
When a bike will not go into neutral even with an experienced rider doing all the right things (clutch in all the way, bike rolling forward or backward even slightly while pressing on the lever lightly ) the problem is most likely a dragging clutch caused either by maladjustment, or by one or more warped clutch plates or some other mechanical clutch issue.
Our training fleet had a lot of 2017 Groms that would NOT go into neutral while running. This was a factory defect, not an adjustment problem.
Having said that, it is true that newbies can take a while to develop the knack of shifting into neutral as the bike is stopping, or rolling the bike just a little to find neutral while the bike is stopped.
I've noticed if the oil thins out, due to gasoline from carburetor trouble, all shifting, in general, is hard, especially finding neutral. You could try a fresh oil change and see if that makes a change. Also, check the crankcase vent tube, and make sure that isn't full, and hindering the release of moisture that develops in the crankcase.

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post #8 of 25 Old 06-26-2018, 07:14 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Wyl Ike View Post
I've noticed if the oil thins out, due to gasoline from carburetor trouble, all shifting, in general, is hard, especially finding neutral. You could try a fresh oil change and see if that makes a change. Also, check the crankcase vent tube, and make sure that isn't full, and hindering the release of moisture that develops in the crankcase.
I've heard this case made many times by many people on here, but I have never observed this myself in any Honda I have owned or ridden.
Maybe I'm just not sensitive enough? Most of us change the oil every 1000 miles or so. Oil should not be significantly degraded in that mileage to the point that the rider could detect changes in viscosity. Bikes with no oil filter do start to accumulate suspended combustion contaminants in that mileage which should be removed by draining the oil, but the lubrication properties should not be degraded to the point of causing shifting problems or causing abnormal engine wear due to viscosity breakdown. Anyway, I guess YMMV.

2004 Rebel 250, 2003 BMW K1200GT (roadburner), 2004 BMW R1200GS(all purpose),
1973 Norton Interstate (in a box in the basement)
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post #9 of 25 Old 06-26-2018, 08:20 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Duckster View Post
I've heard this case made many times by many people on here, but I have never observed this myself in any Honda I have owned or ridden.
Maybe I'm just not sensitive enough? Most of us change the oil every 1000 miles or so. Oil should not be significantly degraded in that mileage to the point that the rider could detect changes in viscosity. Bikes with no oil filter do start to accumulate suspended combustion contaminants in that mileage which should be removed by draining the oil, but the lubrication properties should not be degraded to the point of causing shifting problems or causing abnormal engine wear due to viscosity breakdown. Anyway, I guess YMMV.
This subject is near & dear to me, and possibly could be a good topic for another thread, as my Rebel 250 has had a long history of oil thinning, only getting around 500-600 miles before shifting get difficult. The color of the oil looked good, but just came out thin. Another trait my bike had, was the amount of crankcase vent discharge was relatively high, so I had to drain the tube often. I remember reading a segment in the owners manual which informed that this discharge will increase if driving hard, and/or driving in high humidity or rain. So I suspected I was just driving it to hard, because humidity is relatively low in NW Minnesota.


I don't believe the oil thinning was due to water moisture build-up in the crankcase, because the old oil was not milky in any way. Also, I've heard when a carburetor float sticks, overflowing fuel can find it's way into the crankcase via the carb&intake system. I eventually changed the carburetor, but the problem persisted.


Finally did a valve clearance check, and found the exhaust valve barely at, or slightly, under the minimum acceptable gap of 002. Adjusting this to somewhere between .003 and .004 seemed to have corrected the excessive crankcase venting. I don't know if this is just a coincidence, and since I'm not an engine expert, won't try to speculate here, but just sharing what I found with the team. I have not put enough miles on the bike, to see if the oil thinning problem has gone away, but really hoping it has.
...I'm sorry this quote got so long.

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post #10 of 25 Old 06-26-2018, 10:25 AM
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Wyl Ike, are you turning the petcock to the off position when you park the bike? That should limit gas getting to the oil, even if the float valve leaks. If you still have the old carb and would like to sell it, I'd be interested.
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Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

'01 & '09 Rebel 250, '06 Ninja 250, '89 VN 750
Putting your bike year and model in your signature helps others help you!
Here's how: https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f19/...re-121087.html
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