Where are cam timing marks - Honda Rebel Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 05-21-2012, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Where are cam timing marks

Hi all, my dad is trying to set the cam timing on his honda rebel 125 year 2000, but he cannot find the timing marks on the camshaft. Can anyone please display pics of how to set the cam timing as he is almost 80 years old and will need visuals,, we know its something got to do with a (T) mark or something,, if not then a good explanation will do aswell as I can print this out for him. By the way searched the internet for days for this solution and hey guess what,,, nothing I cant believe it!!! can someone please help as he will love me forever if I can find this solution for him Thanks so much
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post #2 of 9 Old 05-21-2012, 09:48 PM
 
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It is a bit complicated, and a shop manual is really the best source of the entire procedure to assemble the cams complete with the pictures. You really should have the manual for this type of work. The following gives the basics of timing the valves.

The T mark on the crankshaft is Top dead centre . Both pistons will be at the top of their stroke when the T mark lines up with the index.

There are 2 circular punch marks on the left side of the cam sprocket. When the cylinders are at top dead center a straight line between the 2 punch marks on the sprocket would be parallel to the top of the head. Rotate the right side of the cam so the sprocket bolt holes line up when the sprocket is assembled to it.

There is a notch in the end of the left side of the cam. The notch should point horizontal to the rear of the head, and the bolt holes should line up through the sprocket. The 2 punch marks should still be horizontal and the crank should still be on the T mark. Fit the first sprocket bolt and then rotate the engine so you can fit the second one. Torque them to spec.
Rotate the crank counterclockwise throught several revolutions and chack your timing marks again.

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post #3 of 9 Old 05-22-2012, 03:55 PM
 
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This is a very good instruction on how to adjust valve:

http://www.hondarebelforum.com/f39/f...ment-2403.html

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post #4 of 9 Old 05-22-2012, 04:59 PM
 
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The question is about cam timing.. which is a separate thing that would only have to be done after the head had been removed from the engine. Valve clearance checking and adjustment is a periodic maintenance thing.
I thought the valve adjustment explanation cited was a bit more complex than it needs to be though.

You can save a lot of time on valve clearance checking on overhead cam engines once you realize that you can check the valve clearance at any time the cam lobe is 180 degrees more or less away from the cam follower. (i.e. the valve has been closed for a while and will be closed for a while longer). You can visually determine this, because you don't have to be very precisely positioned . under these conditions, the cam is on what is called its "base circle" where valve clearance is constant and can be measured.

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post #5 of 9 Old 07-18-2013, 12:17 PM
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thanks for that timing info saves me buyin workshop manual
cheers
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post #6 of 9 Old 07-18-2013, 12:23 PM
 
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Friendly Advice: BUY A MANUAL It will pay for itself many times over.

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post #7 of 9 Old 07-18-2013, 12:48 PM
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40 years working on cars an bikes as qualified car technician I probably should .but you know how it is they all the same basically suck squeeze bang an blow in one format or another with either 2 wheels 3 wheels or 36 wheels they all got engine brakes or steering

1984 Honda CM 250 ,2005 nsr125,1983 cg125
an I love em all
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post #8 of 9 Old 02-02-2020, 12:28 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duckster View Post
It is a bit complicated, and a shop manual is really the best source of the entire procedure to assemble the cams complete with the pictures. You really should have the manual for this type of work. The following gives the basics of timing the valves.

The T mark on the crankshaft is Top dead centre . Both pistons will be at the top of their stroke when the T mark lines up with the index.

There are 2 circular punch marks on the left side of the cam sprocket. When the cylinders are at top dead center a straight line between the 2 punch marks on the sprocket would be parallel to the top of the head. Rotate the right side of the cam so the sprocket bolt holes line up when the sprocket is assembled to it.

There is a notch in the end of the left side of the cam. The notch should point horizontal to the rear of the head, and the bolt holes should line up through the sprocket. The 2 punch marks should still be horizontal and the crank should still be on the T mark. Fit the first sprocket bolt and then rotate the engine so you can fit the second one. Torque them to spec.
Rotate the crank counterclockwise throught several revolutions and chack your timing marks again.
I have a factory service manual but it really doesn't address my issue that I am finding with the engine at top dead center I simply can't get the gear to fit in the cam chain in a manner that the marks are exactly parallel to the head. They are a little to far rotated forward in one position on the chain and if I skip to cam gear teeth to the next link in the chain then the marks are oriented too far rearward. What am I doing wrong here? I screwed up and did not observe where these marks were when I tore the motor apart. The bike has 137 miles on it and had never been torn apart before I got it. Please help!!!
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post #9 of 9 Old 02-02-2020, 05:15 PM
 
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@4_0_6
Believe your problem is chain tensioner..
have you released the pressure tensioner puts on chain?
should still have pin inserted in tensioner wedge while aligning the camshaft marks..

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