Spanner Nut Removal Help Needed - Honda Rebel Forum
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post #1 of 42 Old 02-02-2015, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
 
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Spanner Nut Removal Help Needed

Hello,

I plan on taking a 400-500 mile trip from Jersey to Massachusetts this spring on my Rebel. Before that, I wanted to change (DIY) many of the parts: clutch, brakes, chain, reupholster the seat (bad tears), spark plugs, clean the carburetor, and fluids for now. I purchased her from a guy who lived in NYC, left her uncovered all year round, and didn't care too much for her yet she still purred like a kitten.

I began working on my clutch and at first the issue arose of the clutch lifter plate snapping with a bolt stuck on. After FINALLY getting that out months later, now I can not remove the spanner nut. I have the special tool but when I try to remove it, it just rotates with no tension. It's like the nut is connected to the piece behind it as it spins as well. I'm not sure what that could mean but I could really use some insight.
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post #2 of 42 Old 02-02-2015, 10:37 PM
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The nut turns, but doesn't come off the threaded shaft? And you lifted or removed the "staked" part of the nut (the skirt that is driven into the slot on the shaft)? It that's the case on all counts, I'd say the threads are stripped - hopefully, just on the nut. If the threads on the shaft are gone, that's a big problem!

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post #3 of 42 Old 02-02-2015, 11:00 PM
 
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I read the question that the shaft is turning as if the bike is in neutral. He needs to lock the inner hub to the outer hub, or otherwise lock the transmission input shift so it can't spin freely.

2004 Rebel 250, 2003 BMW K1200GT (roadburner), 2004 BMW R1200GS(all purpose),
1973 Norton Interstate (in a box in the basement)
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post #4 of 42 Old 02-02-2015, 11:41 PM
 
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If the basket is spinning with the shaft, then you do need to lock that basket so that you can loosen the nut from the shaft. There is a special tool for that that locks the inner basket. You can put it in gear and lock the rear wheel with the brake... a buddy helps here.
When you are loosening or tightening down the clutch lifter plate you need to do it in stages. If you take one bolt out and leave the others fairly tight it usually ends up breaking the lifter plate. A shop manual is your friend, as this is normally covered in most manuals under clutch repair procedures.

If the nut is spinning on the shaft and the baskets are stationary then you have a serious issue with something stripped.

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post #5 of 42 Old 02-03-2015, 01:11 AM
 
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If I under stand your question correctly you need a clutch basket removal tool such as EBC part #CTO12SP. This will keep the clutch basket from turning while the spanner nut is removed or installed. The link below is for a 250 Rebel

EBC Ct Clutch Tool Fits Honda CMX 250 Rebel 1996 1997 1999 2012 | eBay

1986 Honda Rebel 450 28,000 miles
1987 Honda Rebel 450 5,000 miles (sold)
2009 Honda Rebel 250 8,000 miles
1983 Honda CX 650 twisted twin 6,000 miles
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post #6 of 42 Old 02-03-2015, 02:35 AM Thread Starter
 
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I don't think anything is stripped because at one point when I tried to remove the nut, the gears would turn. Now, the basket and not the gears turns so I'm hoping maybe I do need that removal tool.

I was basing my removal off of a Youtube video using an '06 Rebel. He said something about having his wife hold down the brakes while he tried to remove it? Otherwise, saying I didn't have the tool, how would I lock the basket in place or shift gears seeing as the shifter is disconnected.
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post #7 of 42 Old 02-03-2015, 02:40 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flitecontrol View Post
The nut turns, but doesn't come off the threaded shaft? And you lifted or removed the "staked" part of the nut (the skirt that is driven into the slot on the shaft)? It that's the case on all counts, I'd say the threads are stripped - hopefully, just on the nut. If the threads on the shaft are gone, that's a big problem!
Would you be able to direct me to the "staked" part? Or describe it in a little more detail?
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post #8 of 42 Old 02-03-2015, 06:49 AM
 
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If you look at the front of the nut, there is a thin collar that is pounded down into the slot of the shaft (staked) to keep the nut from loosening.

2004 Rebel 250, 2003 BMW K1200GT (roadburner), 2004 BMW R1200GS(all purpose),
1973 Norton Interstate (in a box in the basement)
1968 Triumph Bonneville
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post #9 of 42 Old 02-03-2015, 08:34 AM
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What Duckster is referring to as a collar, I called a skirt. Hopefully, you can see what we are referring to.

Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

'01 & '09 Rebel 250, '06 Ninja 250, '89 VN 750
Putting your bike year and model in your signature helps others help you!
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post #10 of 42 Old 02-04-2015, 12:21 AM
 
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I posted a photo some time back. I'll look for it.
Found it.

The shaft is grooved along it's length. The nut has a ring of sorts extending outward from the main body. When it's in place, the ring is punched into the groove to keep it from turning. The part that is in the groove has to be pried out to allow it to turn. I hope this helps.

'09 Rebel 250

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