2015 Rebel Pilot screw issue - Honda Rebel Forum
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post #1 of 22 Old 03-30-2020, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Rebel Pilot screw issue

Hi, wondering which way to screw the pilot screw to make it lean? Thanks!!!
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post #2 of 22 Old 03-31-2020, 08:11 AM
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Welcome to the forum. I always thought turning it in (clockwise) reduced the fuel flowing through it, but it may be that it reduces air to the mix. Maybe someone more knowledgeable can clarify. Either way, some experimentation should answer your question. If the screw has been removed, the initial adjustment is 2 3/4 turns out from lightly seated. Turning it in too much can damage the tip of the screw.

Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

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post #3 of 22 Old 03-31-2020, 10:11 AM
 
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From what I understand, turning this screw mainly only impacts the AFR at idle. And if that's true, I'm not aware of any gasoline engines that idle well while lean. The two vehicles I've had my AFR gauge on wanted to be 12.5 - 13.5 at idle. And their idle was very smooth at that AFR.

So it makes me wonder why joynsharp would want to be messing with that screw, except to set it back to the factory condition. Unless the thinking is to lean it up across the rpm range. Which, from what I've learned, turning that screw will not accomplish that.

joynsharp - If that is the case, I suggest that you read my thread about AFR on a Rebel (I think that is what it is called). I think it tends to clarify what's going on with the air fuel ratios on the Rebel. I even have a couple charts in that thread that illustrates AFRs at different rpm and throttle conditions.


7milesout

2016 Honda Rebel 250 - The "Piglet."
AFR sensor equipped and downsized to a 0.105" main jet.
The only changes so far.
Bought on 6/29/19 with 44 miles.
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post #4 of 22 Old 03-31-2020, 11:07 AM
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And here's a link to 7milesout's thread about the air/fuel ratio referenced above: https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f76/...fr-122445.html

Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

'01 & '09 Rebel 250, '06 Ninja 250, '89 VN 750
Putting your bike year and model in your signature helps others help you!
Here's how: https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f19/...re-121087.html
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post #5 of 22 Old 03-31-2020, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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7mileout.... the reason I want to lean it out is because the person before me got the choke cable stuck all the way open and I guess enriched the air/fuel mix to compensate. My boyfriend fixed the cable so the choke works properly now. But it seems to be washing out the sparks. There was even a little bit of fuel residue on the air filter. You can smell fuel from the exhaust, air filter, and the plugs are wet/black.
Any lead on a different screw to install so I can easily adjust it? The pilot screw is shaped like a D so it’s hard to adjust while on the bike.
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post #6 of 22 Old 03-31-2020, 01:37 PM
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I doubt adjusting the pilot screw to compensate for a stuck enricher would be successful. I think there would be too much fuel being dumped into the carb for the pilot screw to compensate. Honda intentionally made the head of the pilot screw difficult to adjust.

Sounds like the carb float valve is leaking, causing the fuel issues you describe. The next time you remove the carb, suggest the float valve be replaced. Are you turning the petcock to off when the bike is parked? If not, it's a good habit to develop and will solve the gas issues, assuming it too doesn't leak. Be sure to check the crankcase to see if gas has gotten into the oil via leaking past the rings, which is likely with all the other things going on. If there is gas in the oil, change it ASAP. If you weren't aware, the oil level is checked with the dipstick unscrewed and resting on the threads.

Have you tried using 1/3 to 1/2 choke to start it? Most won't start with less or more choke.

Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

'01 & '09 Rebel 250, '06 Ninja 250, '89 VN 750
Putting your bike year and model in your signature helps others help you!
Here's how: https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f19/...re-121087.html
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post #7 of 22 Old 03-31-2020, 02:07 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joynsharp View Post
7mileout.... the reason I want to lean it out is because the person before me got the choke cable stuck all the way open and I guess enriched the air/fuel mix to compensate. My boyfriend fixed the cable so the choke works properly now. But it seems to be washing out the sparks. There was even a little bit of fuel residue on the air filter. You can smell fuel from the exhaust, air filter, and the plugs are wet/black.
Any lead on a different screw to install so I can easily adjust it? The pilot screw is shaped like a D so it’s hard to adjust while on the bike.
joynsharp - The following is not being a smarty pants. I'm not smart at all, I just *try* to figure things out. The following is written as me sounding out what I'm thinking, to help you and the rest of us hopefully sort things out, and get your bike up to peak running condition.

If the person before had the choke cable pulled, I'm assuming this means the choke was activated. The choke is an enricher than it is a choke. My car's Edelbrock carb actually chokes off the air, hence the name choke. But in the case of the Rebel, this choke doesn't control air from my understanding. It controls fuel. Allowing another port of fuel to enter the flow. I believe that's how it works.

It the previous person had stuck the enricher activated, it would have ran more rich. And now that your boyfriend has fixed that enricher, it would now be running more lean (than before). At this point, it shouldn't be fouling the plugs (which is what you mean I think by "washing out the sparks.") But perhaps the spark plugs are fouled beyond their useful life from the previous running with activated enricher.

If by fuel residue you mean the filter smells like gas. Well there could be a lot of reasons for that, and mine probably smells like gas too. I'm going to have to disregard that. But all the other wet / black / smell conditions could stem back to running the bike with the enricher active (too much fuel).

This is what I would do. Take the carb off the bike. That idle screw, if it is difficult to access, I believe it is the one that comes from the factory with a sort of plug, to discourage changing that setting. I would leave that alone if it is indeed still covered with a plug. Then I would do as flitecontrol mentioned. Followed by replacing the main jet to the factory size .108" main jet, and a factory jet needle. Unless (and I don't remember) there are markings on these main jet and jet needle to confirm they are stock size. I don't think the Rebel runs any better on any set up other than the factory setup.

After that I would slap fresh new correct spark plugs in it with correct gaps. I think you would see a vast improvement with these things.

2016 Honda Rebel 250 - The "Piglet."
AFR sensor equipped and downsized to a 0.105" main jet.
The only changes so far.
Bought on 6/29/19 with 44 miles.
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post #8 of 22 Old 03-31-2020, 03:33 PM
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Most jets are marked as to size, but that doesn't mean a PO didn't ream them out.....

Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

'01 & '09 Rebel 250, '06 Ninja 250, '89 VN 750
Putting your bike year and model in your signature helps others help you!
Here's how: https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f19/...re-121087.html
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post #9 of 22 Old 04-05-2020, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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7milesout—
I don’t think you are being a smarty pants I really appreciate the help you’re giving.
So with that info, I can see how the choke could let in more fuel and enriches the mixture. The thing is, now that the choke cable works properly, the bike runs even more rich. With the choke off the plunger seals off the extra fuel port. The plugs are fouled, it sputters when I throttle, you can see black smoke from the mufflers, along with the profuse smell of gasoline.
We had it running ok the other day (with new plugs) but I went to start it up today and choke/no choke, she woke even fire a little. He cleaned the plugs and has adjusted the pilot screw up..... nothing. Cleaned the plugs and adjusted the screw down.....nothing. Cleaned them and went half way with the screw.... nothing. Every time he pulls the plugs they are wet and black. He grounded them out on the frame and they are both sparking (gapped .025).
Again this bike has 650 miles on it, we can’t fathom why we would need to open up the carburetor to adjust the jets, so we are trying to do everything we can before that has to happen.
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post #10 of 22 Old 04-07-2020, 11:04 AM
 
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650 miles? What is the year model?

In 650 miles, I can't imagine the carb jet and needle would have been messed with (so I'm agreeing with you on that). But if it is an older bike, with only 650 miles, that carb likely needs a thorough cleaning. Hence the question about the year model of the bike.

There is likely one of 2 scenarios going on that I can imagine from what all you've posted. Either the bike is getting way too much fuel, or it is not getting enough air. I don't remember reading if the air filter / airbox / intake has been checked (for any type of blockage).

Oh yeah … there's the slide / diaphragm issue. I think flitecontrol knows this well. If the bike is older and has only sat around, it could be that the diaphragm is degraded and maybe damaged from degradation. The reason I bring this up is, the diaphragm is part of the slide. The slide controls airflow. As the slide lifts, it opens the carb for more airflow. If the diaphragm is damaged the slide either doesn't lift, or not enough. However … as I think about this, this is usually a problem with limiting the engine's power … not an overly rich condition. Aaaaa, just thinking out loud. Maybe others might have some ideas here.


7milesout

2016 Honda Rebel 250 - The "Piglet."
AFR sensor equipped and downsized to a 0.105" main jet.
The only changes so far.
Bought on 6/29/19 with 44 miles.
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