Acceleration issue - Page 2 - Honda Rebel Forum
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post #11 of 30 Old 04-21-2019, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
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Originally Posted by shakeedogg View Post
After I put emgo shorties on my 86 I had to shim the needle to cure the hesitation when giving throttle. Its ran great every since.
Im not quite sure how to shim the needle. Is that to increase the gas or the make less gas go in? Is it pretty difficult or expensive? Thanks for letting me know kuz I would really like to have it running very
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post #12 of 30 Old 04-21-2019, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by kryton View Post
If they don't flash and you still have the OEM flasher, it depends on the massive current drawn by incandescent bulbs to cycle, led's don't pull enough juice to trigger it to flash.
If you have both sides flash, you need to do something about the panel bulb. It's wired between both sides and lets enough juice leak across to light an LED. Pulling the panel bulb should stop the both-side flash. To use the panel indicator you need to either add diodes or change to a 3-prong electronic flasher (there are threads for both)
If you have one light on one side flash but not both lights, check the bulb/led and wiring.
If you have intermitten response from the turn signals, you have to hit it several times to get it on, you have dirty contacts in the switch and should clean them (several good youtube vids on that)
Kryton, I did put the 3 prong flasher on it, but am unaware of where this panel bulb is at. Sounds like that would be the issue. Thanks for the heads up and I'll start looking into it. It's finally starting to warm up in the midwest and cannot wait to get riding again.
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post #13 of 30 Old 04-21-2019, 06:02 PM
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See this thread on how to shim the needle. Shimming lifts the needle slightly, putting more fuel into the mix. https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f39/...e-shim-94.html

Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

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post #14 of 30 Old 04-21-2019, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by flitecontrol View Post
See this thread on how to shim the needle. Shimming lifts the needle slightly, putting more fuel into the mix. https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f39/...e-shim-94.html
Awesome ty for that. I was debating switching to a cone k&n and seeing that thread it seems if I do that, then I should switch to a higher jet and shim possibly. I may wait on doing the cone air filter.

Ive never opened up a carb as it is, so not entirely sure how complicated it is. I am a pretty mechanically inclined, so hopefully it's not too difficult. But if I go to shim, I might as well clean it while i have it off. I seen some ppl talking and sea foam and another guy said something about letting it sit in something for 48hrs but you'll need to take an o-ring out some where. What's the easiest, but still effective way of cleaning one?
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post #15 of 30 Old 04-21-2019, 11:00 PM
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Forget SeaFoam and carb spray. They don't have the crud cutting power of Berrymans Chem Dip. Chem Dip comes in a gallon pail with a parts basket in it and is available at Wal-Mart and most auto parts stores. Costs around $16-18 and can be used multiple times.

Remove and disassemble the carb. Put only the metal parts no rubber (bowl gasket, float valve, acceleration pump, or carb drain and air/fuel mixture screw O-rings) or plastic (float, knobs, etc.) in the Chem Dip as it will destroy them. Leave it for a minimum of 48 hours, longer is better. Remove and rinse everything thoroughly with water and then used high pressure compressed air to blow out every orifice, of which there are many.

Or if you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner, use that. It cleans the carb thoroughly in an hour or so.

There are many good reasons for not installing a pod filter. Here's a recent thread on the subject: https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f76/...in-121473.html

Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

'01 & '09 Rebel 250, '06 Ninja 250, '89 VN 750
Putting your bike year and model in your signature helps others help you!
Here's how: https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f19/...re-121087.html
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post #16 of 30 Old 04-21-2019, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ok I'll go that route. Now one other thing it's doing and maybe cleaning the carb will help. When I start it, it seemingly goes up and down a bit before leveling out. It seems to reach a decent amount of rpm, though hard to say without having a dedicated tach, I'm just listening to the exhaust and engine sound. Could this be because of a dirty carb or could it be something else. I did quite a bit of work on the looks and definitely need to focus now on the mechanics of it. Once it gets warmed up, of course, it seems to be ok. Any thoughts?
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post #17 of 30 Old 04-22-2019, 12:49 AM
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Clean the carb and see if that fixes it. If not, we'll consider other causes. Probably 95% of the running problems members report on bikes they recently acquired are fixed by cleaning the carb well. Soaking the carb for an extended period, say 5-7 days, won't hurt and will probably help. IIRC, the record for number of times a member soaked their carb before getting it completely clean was five. Probably will need new float valve, bowl gasket and O-rings. If the slide diaphragm has shrunk, soaking it for a few hours in a solution of alcohol and oil of wintergreen will soften and expand it.

Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

'01 & '09 Rebel 250, '06 Ninja 250, '89 VN 750
Putting your bike year and model in your signature helps others help you!
Here's how: https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f19/...re-121087.html
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post #18 of 30 Old 04-22-2019, 01:15 AM Thread Starter
 
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Just found a couple videos on cleaning them and seeing the valves, seems pretty simple enough. I'll attempt it and see how it works. Is there any standard on how the idle screw should be sitting on the carb. The way I bought this bike, it feels like it was all the way out or really close to it.
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post #19 of 30 Old 04-22-2019, 03:18 AM
 
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if you have a tachometer then yes, the idle screw is set to match the warm idle speed listed in the manual. 1400 or 1500 RPM? Since not a lot of us have tachometers we judge by ear. I screw it completely out so the engine is struggling to keep an idle, even stalling, and then screw it in to get a smooth idle....which usually turns out to be too fast once the bike has really warmed up....so I screw it out a hair and that's were I keep it. real scientific!

1985 CMX 250

You look much less stupid locking your handlebar lock every night no matter where you park it than looking at the empty space where your bike was last parked.
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post #20 of 30 Old 04-22-2019, 07:16 AM
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The recommended initial setting of the air/fuel screw for first generation bikes like yours is 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. If a PO hasn't cut it off, there is a limiter tab that restricts how much it can be turned after assembling the carb. It also prevents the screw from coming out. Only minor adjustments of this screw are needed. Turn it no more than about 1/8 of a turn at a time. Clockwise for a leaner mix, and counter clockwise for richer.

Final tuning of the idle screw should be done once the engine is thoroughly warm. As oggy points out, if you have a tach, 1,400 rpms +- 100 is where it should be set. That's fairly "busy" sounding, and like him, I go by ear.

Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

'01 & '09 Rebel 250, '06 Ninja 250, '89 VN 750
Putting your bike year and model in your signature helps others help you!
Here's how: https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f19/...re-121087.html
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