Did you use standard (non-LED) bulbs to replace what was in the signals? The Rebel's electrical system doesn't need a battery to run. You can push start it even if the battery is dead as a door nail. You can check to see if the bike battery is low or bad by jumping it from a car battery. Just be sure the car's engine is off. If it isn't, you can damage the bike's electronics.
You can charge the bike battery at no more than two amp for 4-6 hours. If it doesn't read at least 13 volts by that time, it's gone. Yuasa make excellent batteries under their own name and also MotoBatt. The MotoBatts are usually a few dollars cheaper. Get the AGM type; it requires no maintenance once filled with electrolyte and charged.
The seat is removed by removing two bolts at the rear of the passenger seat, sliding it back and off, and removing two more bolts at the back of the rider's seat.
I can push start bike and lights work. (no turn signals--I may have messed up switch as horn no longer works either)
Figured out where starter solenoid is and checked fuse with meter along with 2 fuses near battery.
I got standard bulbs. I had the front one lighting up with new and old bulb. Just not rear. Then after I messed with switch they soon both stopped working.
I see the starter solenoid is around $15 online so if it is a similar price locally I'll try replacing that.
Now that I know how to remove seat I'll check out turn signal relay tomorrow.
Now that I calmed down and tried again. Jumped bike with car NOT running. Starts fine and right turn signals work.
Ordered a new battery.
I learned a lot.
1. Where the fuses are
2. Where the starter solenoid is and it has a fuse too.
3. Finally learned how to remove seat.
4. Got a meter and learned/relearned how to use it.
5. Understand importance of tender.
6. Realized I can push start the bike if needed
Now to figure out if left side is another lose bulb or something else I have to learn.
You need to get both signals working again. You either have a bad ground, bad hot connection(s) or bad bulbs in the rear signal. Once the problem is gone, the thermal flasher will work to flash both front and rear lights. TRace the wiring back to the flasher relay from the rear.
My guess is that you had one problem at first, and then you "worked" on the switch and created a second problem. Figure out how to use your meter and troubleshoot the circuit.
Sorry was losing my patience. There is a 2nd wire that needed to be soldered to bottom ring of bulb socket. The bare wire was one of two that was probably causing my problems.
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