I just want to remind people that may just be passing through the forum and People new to bike ownership. To please grease your caliper slide pins. Your future self and the next bike owner will appreciate it more than you can imagine.
I burned up a impact wrench today and had to go buy another one. I zip tied the trigger on the first one and left it for about 2 hours before it burned up. So I went and bought a new one and did the same. It took 3 - 3 1/2 hours of a half inch impact beating on the pin before it finally broke loose and came out.
Had the PO did basic maintenance it could of been avoided. But he didn’t and you can’t buy new calipers for the 1st gen so I had to get it out. Now my stud extractor is seized so I have to replace it as well.
I’m just happy it finally broke free of the rust and I can now order a rebuild kit and get working front brakes. Some people may have gave up or not been able to ruin there equipment to accomplish getting that pin out.
So please if your not doing maintenance please at least do just the minimum for the next guy.
Probably sounds like a stupid question but did you try to loosen the bolt while it was on the bike or off?
I think the majority of people don't have more than an absolute basic understanding of vehicle maintenance, no need to pass judgement on it, that's just the way it is. No expectations means no disappointment. I'm getting a kick out of fixing my Rebel because it would've been in a scrapyard within 2 years if I hadn't gotten my hands on it.
It was one of the slide pins. No threads it was seized inside the caliper so that the caliper would not move in and out to allow proper wear on the pads.
My Rebel was scrap yard ready when I got it and I have put a lot of hard work and money into it so that it would be rideable.
Out of all the wiring issues, broken and stripped bolts the slide pin is what irritated me the most. Because it should be the easiest thing to maintain it’s as if they PO never changed the brake pads in the bikes life.
Depending on the mileage, that's very possible, if not likely. There are many members that bought older bikes with low mileage that had deteriorated original tires on them. No reason to think they would have changed the pads either. The caliper pins could rust up over time if the bike was exposed to the elements.
I bought a first gen parts bike from a guy in Arkansas that stored it outside with the gas cap off.
I really thought about turning into a bobber but I decided to restore it to factory to be different. It’s 100% stock and I finished it today will be posting the pictures to my project thread tonight. It’s just rides so different it’s 100% different then it was when I got it compared to now.
What type of grease is OK to use on the caliper slide pins? I have some white lithium grease at work, but not silicon. And do you use a separate grease on the rubber parts of the caliper? If lithium is a hard no, I'll just buy some caliper specific stuff.
Dielectric grease is silicon based. Auto parts stores sell silicon grease in small tear open packets (like ketchup comes in) for folks replacing their disc pads. Last time I looked, they were $1/packet but may have gone up. You can basically buy a lifetime's supply of grease by getting a 3 oz. tube of dielectric grease for the price of several small packets. NEW Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube | eBay
@FrodoBaggins i've lubed disk brake pins and automotive caliper sliding surfaces with white lithium grease for decades..
used the same on rear brake cam as well as where drum shoes contact backing plate..
those pins don't get that hot.. doubt if they get hot at all
now if i was building a race application where brake heat buildup is a consideration I might look at a higher temp lubrication product..
after a ride disk isn't what I would consider hot.. I've checked so as not to melt nylon cover as the exhaust has done a couple of times..
One more point of clarification: I'm hearing mixed opinions about whether or not grease is required on the back of the brake pads themselves. Is the general belief that grease there will do more harm than good? Can't find anything relevant in the service manual.
never have greased back of pads,,
Have applied to other makers calipers brake pad glues that harden or installed spring retainers that attach pads to piston and/or caliper cast iron backside..
These products have been designed to quiet harmonic squeal aka brake squeak or ring..
Thanks for the insight, I appreciate all the help that's available on this forum. Cleaned a bunch of gunk out of the calipers and lubed with silicone-based grease. Also cleaned the brake lever pivot point and everything feels way better.
I have Honda high temp urea grease and m77 moly paste. I used the grease on the pins and m77 on the pad caliper contact points. Does that seem kosher for a Rebel?
@FrodoBaggins
brake fluid is hygroscopic, in that it absorbs moisture from atmosphere
water being heaver than oil collects all sorts of contaminants while sinking to lowest point of caliper.. #1 reason piston won't retract is when that gunk packs up
opening caliper up is only way to clean the mud out..
@MaconMan77
pad contact points, i assume the u mean the pins holding pads in place?
I'd be more inclined to apply anti-seize to the pad pin threads, as i see it, greasing them only attracts desert dust here so I leave them dry..
only the caliper slide pins are greased and they have rubber boots to keep grease clean.
I never have applied grease to back of any pad..
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