First Bobber Build - Page 10 - Honda Rebel Forum
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post #91 of 114 Old 04-28-2017, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by 01-7700 View Post
Looks a lot more complicated than your description - looks great! Cheers
Haha thanks, yea it was quite entailed. Lots of masking and a good amount of thinking for the correct order of spraying. I forgot to take progress pics, but im doing my tank tomorrow so ill be sure to take lots of pics of the whole process for anyone that is interested. Here are some teaser pics of my new tank with the Rustic Mist metallic base coat.
Cheers.





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post #92 of 114 Old 04-29-2017, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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So I started laying down tape today for my new gas tank. Hopefully the rattle can paint is cured enough but i guess ill find that out when I peel the tape off tomorrow. I have the utmost respect for pro painters, it sure is tiring laying down symmetrical lines. I had to re-do them twice as i was off a little bit here and there.







Tomorrow morning ill start spraying the Metalcast Smoke to get my fades, take off all the tape, and put a few heavy coats of clear on it. Then ill wait about a week to wet sand it almost all the way down to color again and finally I'll use some SprayMax 2k clear for a nice durable gas resistant finish.
Thanks for looking,
Cheers!
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post #93 of 114 Old 04-29-2017, 10:17 PM
 
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Your build is looking really fantastic. I am starting mine tomorrow with lots of pictures. Mind me asking, your tail lights that you got at DCC, did they come with the proper mounting hardware to mount them in the holes right above the top of the shock absorber? Where the old fender strut was? Are they two or three wire signals? I have my new tail light and license plate bracket, but my turn signals, "from China" were broken in shipping. So I am going with DCC. Are they pretty straight forward? Thanks and really dig the build.
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post #94 of 114 Old 04-29-2017, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
 
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Your build is looking really fantastic. I am starting mine tomorrow with lots of pictures. Mind me asking, your tail lights that you got at DCC, did they come with the proper mounting hardware to mount them in the holes right above the top of the shock absorber? Where the old fender strut was? Are they two or three wire signals? I have my new tail light and license plate bracket, but my turn signals, "from China" were broken in shipping. So I am going with DCC. Are they pretty straight forward? Thanks and really dig the build.
Thanks! Yea the turn signals come with a washer and chrome nut on them, you can see them in the pic. It fits right in the fender mount hole and its 2 wires just like the stock ones. I think they even had the right connectors too so its a direct bolt on. These are the ones i got DCC Turn Signals. Good luck and ill keep an eye out for your build thread.
Cheers.

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post #95 of 114 Old 04-30-2017, 02:16 PM
 
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Great work my friend. Thanks for your detailed instructions and how to do's. Can you tell me what kind of welder are you using for welding. I need to do some welding on my project rebel build and I was wondering if the Harbor Freight 90 amp flux wire welder can do the job. It's around $90 and that's only welder that I can afford at this time. Thanks.
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post #96 of 114 Old 04-30-2017, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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Great work my friend. Thanks for your detailed instructions and how to do's. Can you tell me what kind of welder are you using for welding. I need to do some welding on my project rebel build and I was wondering if the Harbor Freight 90 amp flux wire welder can do the job. It's around $90 and that's only welder that I can afford at this time. Thanks.
Thanks for the kind words! I have a Millermatic 211 120/230v gas welder which is a decent investment but well worth it. If you are a good welder you could probably get by with a hobart flux core welder, Ive seen some impressive stuff done with them, but you really have to know what you are doing and do some serious cleaning between each weld pass if you want any kind of good penetration. If you have a friend with a good welder I would get him a 12 pack and use that. Learning on a flux core is near impossible and very frustrating. Its like learning to ride a unicycle before a bicycle, they both have pedals and a wheel but im sure you get the analogy. That being said there is nothing better than practice, so you might as well get the harbor freight welder and hone your skills on that and lots of scrap metal. And once you can afford and want to step up to a better welder it will feel amazing and be like going from a Pinto to a GT500 haha.
Best of luck!
Cheers,
-J
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post #97 of 114 Old 04-30-2017, 10:52 PM
 
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Speaking of welding, this might sound silly. Do I need to unhook my battery before welding my frame? Or can I keep everything hooked up as usual and weld my seat bracket?
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post #98 of 114 Old 05-01-2017, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
 
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Speaking of welding, this might sound silly. Do I need to unhook my battery before welding my frame? Or can I keep everything hooked up as usual and weld my seat bracket?
Definitely unhook your batter! Since the battery is grounded to your frame if you leave it hooked up when welding you would essentially be putting 110v through a 12v system and fry/melt almost every electrical component... you could probably start a fire too. Minimum unhook the negative from the batt.
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post #99 of 114 Old 05-01-2017, 07:16 PM
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Disconnecting electronics, and electrical grounds as much as possible is a good idea. However, the most important thing when welding on any machine is that you be sure that your welding ground makes good contact with bare metal close to the weld on the part you are welding. You want to be sure that the circuit completed by the welding rod or wire goes directly to the ground clamp and back to the welder without going through any other part of the machine first, or to any other ground.

You do not want there to be any other path to ground. Rubber tires are good insulators from ground if they are clean and dry. The kick stand needs to be insulated from the ground by placing a non conductor between it and the ground like a block of dry wood, rubber, plastic. Do not leave any tools or metal leaning against the bike that may provide a path to ground. Never weld on anything that is wet. These secondary grounds will not carry welding current, but they can carry stray voltage and current that can damage sensitive electronics or parts.

Be sure that there are no isolators, rubber bushings, or even bolted connections between the part you are welding and the ground clamp. This is to insure that the current goes directly to the ground clamp through the direct route rather than through a whole bunch of other parts in a round about path to get there.

Connect the ground to the major part that you are welding something onto, like the frame, instead of the loose part that you are connecting to it, like a bracket. Then be sure to start your arc on that major part that is grounded and move to the loose part that is not, rather than the other way around.

If you are welding something onto the frame, then connect your ground directly to the frame close to the weld. You probably need to grind a bare spot to get rid of paint so you can insure good contact. Don't connect the ground on one end of the bike and weld on the other end. If you are welding a tab onto a fender, grind a bare spot on the fender close to the weld, and connect your ground there, rather than connecting it to the frame and making the current go through the fender connections to the frame before it can get to the ground. Whatever part you are welding something onto should be where you grind bare and connect your ground.

These procedures insure that stray voltage and arcs don't occur in undesirable places. Failure to follow these procedures can short out electronics, and destroy bearings, or other parts that have tight clearances by arcing across the gaps.

Welding on an engine requires even more care to prevent damaging the internals. The Rebel does not have any computer ECU or other fancy electronics, but if it did, you would need to take further precautions to isolate it from welding currents, since it only takes a tiny amount of current to fry them.

Hope this helps you and others avoid welding current damage.

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post #100 of 114 Old 05-01-2017, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
 
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^This. I never thought about the kickstand tho, good tip!
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