52mm AFR Gauge Mounting... - Honda Rebel Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 07-12-2019, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
 
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52mm AFR Gauge Mounting...

Guys and gals,


I'm working on adding an AEM 30-0300 AFR gauge to my 2016 Rebel. Once I've got the gauge up and running, I'm going to be able to see the AFR a stock Rebel runs. And if it is not rich at WOT, I'm going to attempt to tune the WOT AFR to 12.5. 12.5 is optimum power for a gasoline engine, as well as very safe. My idea is to leave the rest of the throttle input as it currently is, because it runs well and seems to be very efficient. It's WOT that I want to make sure is optimized.


The point of doing this is to ensure that I can eek out every possible hp this engine can provide, at WOT, to help with passing type power at high speeds. I'm guessing Honda could have done this very easily, but have their hands tied due to emissions regulations. I *think* that changing the lower tip-side shape of the jet needle should be all that is needed. In that way, all positions of the jet needle are the same, except the bottom tip. That *should* only affect WOT. I will post my results of this experiment as I go along. And will make a video showing various AFR conditions a stock Rebel yields. I'm guessing it's fairly lean, as when I'm cruising along (with adequate amounts of fuel), under certain conditions, I think I feel the power sort of "cut-out." Just like it does when the gas level in the ON position is low enough that it's about to run out but before it does, you can sort of kind of feel it starting to hesitate / lose power a bit.


I've got the AFR gauge, wiring harness, and the Bosch sensor. It is all in an antique car I've tuned to perfection. I went and got the appropriate exhaust weld bung on Wednesday.


I need to remove the exhaust, drill a hole, and weld in the bung. Then apply the sensor and wire it up. I think I've got a plan for everything except.


I'm going to have to find a place to tap switch power (shouldn't be too difficult).



And, the reason I made this post: I can't seem to find a handlebar gauge mount for said 52mm gauge. Can anyone shoot me a hint as to where I might look?




Thanks!


7milesout

2016 Honda Rebel 250 - The "Piglet."
Totally Stock at the moment.
Bought on 6/29/19 with 44 miles.
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post #2 of 19 Old 07-12-2019, 02:59 PM
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Any of these work? https://duckduckgo.com/?q=conduit+cl...22-1&ia=images

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post #3 of 19 Old 07-12-2019, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
 
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I don't believe so.

2016 Honda Rebel 250 - The "Piglet."
Totally Stock at the moment.
Bought on 6/29/19 with 44 miles.
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post #4 of 19 Old 07-12-2019, 08:08 PM
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Since it's a temporary mount (I assume), why not just zip tie it on?

Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

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post #5 of 19 Old 07-15-2019, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
 
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I guess I could mount it temporarily. Will need to figure that out as well. A temp mount that will allow me to see the AFR gauge easily and doesn't vibrate too much or fall off.


I found a thread that described what parts of the carb effect the performance of the carb based on throttle input. And it implied that the main jet only effects the performance from 3/4 throttle to WOT. I tried to apply that attachment here but keep getting the message that the file is too large.


I wouldn't think that's correct, based on how my car's carburetor works. But they are not the same type of carburetor. If it is truly just the main jet that effects 3/4 to WOT, then this should be much easier than I thought. It would only be adjustment of the main jet. However, I tend to believe changing the main jet would effect the AFR throughout the whole rev range.


I'd like some input on that before I start tearing into the carburetor. That's still a ways off but not as far off since I may just fab a temp mount with zip ties. I'm thinking 2 zip ties around just the bar only, spaced appropriately. Then a 3rd zip tie between the first 2 zip ties and the handlebar, then up and over the gauge. Then everything zipped tight. Maybe that would work.




7milesout

2016 Honda Rebel 250 - The "Piglet."
Totally Stock at the moment.
Bought on 6/29/19 with 44 miles.
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post #6 of 19 Old 07-15-2019, 12:26 PM
 
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my minimal understanding is Main jet as well as Needle jet plus Needle Taper has the most influence from 3/4 to WOT..
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File Type: jpg Care & Feeding Of The Keihin Carb.jpg (16.8 KB, 2 views)

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post #7 of 19 Old 07-15-2019, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
 
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That's not the same image, but serves the same purpose, but even clearer. I'm going to have to assume those curves are based on CV carburetors.


That is more about what I would expect from the needle shape / taper than the illustration I saw previously. Not what I expect from the main jet from my experience. However, I'm not doubting it at all. It may fit my car's carburetor more accurately than I would have surmised. I'm not saying it's wrong at all, just not what I expected. What it does seem to indicate is that what I'm going to have to vary is the main jet primarly. If not only. Which is easy enough.


Because, my bike being stock does seem to run well and is very efficient around town. I wouldn't want to change that. I only want to ensure that at WOT, the AFR is optimized to suit the reason I'm at WOT I'd like to know that "she's giving me all she's got, Captain!"


I look forward to getting this up and running. I would also like to document the changes. On a dragstrip would be the most scientific. I've ran a few vehicles down the dragstrip so I can say that I would be embarrassed to run the Rebel down the strip. I'll have to figure another way. Maybe a timed 45 - 75 mph 5th gear pull.

2016 Honda Rebel 250 - The "Piglet."
Totally Stock at the moment.
Bought on 6/29/19 with 44 miles.
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post #8 of 19 Old 07-15-2019, 02:44 PM
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What about someone timing you both ways over a measured distance?

Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

'01 & '09 Rebel 250, '06 Ninja 250, '89 VN 750
Putting your bike year and model in your signature helps others help you!
Here's how: https://www.hondarebelforum.com/f19/...re-121087.html
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post #9 of 19 Old 07-15-2019, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
 
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Maybe. Can't do it locally where I live. Local law enforcement would have a field day with it even as slow as a Rebel is.


I wish I could talk to the drag strip I go to and just say hey look, I just want to make 5 passes, I'm going to top out at maybe 70 mph, and will be 18 second runs. And I'm doing it for research. This bike needs NO track prep. No burnout, no nothing. Just turn on the lights for me for 10 minutes, so I don't have to make a fool of myself in front of everyone else. I'm going to send them a message. I'm sure I'll get rejected, but it never hurts to ask.




7milesout

2016 Honda Rebel 250 - The "Piglet."
Totally Stock at the moment.
Bought on 6/29/19 with 44 miles.
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post #10 of 19 Old 07-29-2019, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
 
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For anyone following this thread, I'm lagging. Again this weekend I wasn't able to make any progress. I was at the hospital with my mother over the weekend. I'm back home now. I'm guessing my mother has 2 weeks or so remaining of her life. And it's going to be an awful 2 weeks I fear. Anywho - Not a concern for this group with that.


I wanted to say that before I have to get back up to Chattanooga for my mother, I think I'm just going to go ahead and take the exhaust off the Rebel, and get it over to my buddy and get the bung welded on. I'm going to try to get to it this week when I have time. I'm so looking forward to seeing what our stock AFR are, how they behave compared to my 1972 Plymouth Scamp, and re-jetting for optimal WOT performance. This reply is just to serve as an update on this AFR thread / issue.




7milesout

2016 Honda Rebel 250 - The "Piglet."
Totally Stock at the moment.
Bought on 6/29/19 with 44 miles.
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