dt - It sounds like you are not revving the engine before slipping the clutch. It must be revved, but not that much. Engine stalling is more based on your left hand than your right. Meaning clutch control more than throttle (in my opinion). I'm going to describe my take on clutch control, and is the way I quickly taught my son to control his clutch on his CR 85R.
A lot of the following is based on being comfortable with the clutch. Not just something anyone with no experience can do. I suggest you try this in a clear area not around other cars.
With the engine running, pull the clutch lever, push the shifter down into first gear. Without even revving, ease the clutch out until you first feel it start to "slip / engage / pull." Don't worry, what can happen at this point? It can stall, but you got your feet down so it shouldn't move much and your legs would stop it from falling over. Let's say that at the point where you feel it begin the slip / engage / pull is at a clutch lever position of say 50%. At the 50% point, you'll want to rev, just a little, not much. You may need to rev a little up and down, but a steady rev is better, yet it takes some practice. Once revved, ease the clutch out a bit more to say oh maybe 60% lever release (these numbers are just guesstimates, but is a relevant way to think about this).
Once at say 60% clutch lever release, the bike should start rolling, hold the clutch lever at this 60% release point while the bike begins to roll and gain some speed. This is where mistakes happen for new riders. At the point the bike starts to roll, they want to completely release the clutch. But, just hold the 60% or so and let the bike gain some speed. This is the clutch slipping process. Once the bike is rolling somewhat, there is a speed at which the clutch lever can just be slammed out (I'm not condoning doing that, this is just for explanation), and there would be no feel, the bike would not jump or shake. That speed is the speed where the engine and the transmission are spinning at the same speed. Back to the 60% position ... once rolling a good bit (which is about the speed you'll be lifting your feet), ease the clutch the rest of the way out. All this done at a steady throttle position if possible. All this can be done in maybe 2 or 3 seconds once good at it.
This is not bragging, this is explaining how someone with experience can be easy on a clutch. I can do this process and have my clutch fully engaged at about the point where my rear tire is at the location where my front tire was when stopped. Very low revving. I'll see if I can take a video of this. I learned a clutch like this because I have a Dodge diesel truck with a 6 speed manual. But I've had manual transmission from day 1 of my driving career. Luckily 1st gear in my Dodge is a creeper. I have hauled some very heavy trailers. And if one doesn't use a clutch properly, one can burn a clutch out very quickly. The key is to get the clutch fully engaged as smoothly and over as short a distance as possible, and then once fully engaged, then accelerate. Let the fully engaged clutch do the work, not a slipping clutch. A slipping clutch is only good to get a vehicle rolling. A fully engaged clutch does the work.
2016 Honda Rebel 250 - The "Piglet."
AFR sensor equipped and downsized to a 0.105" main jet.
The only changes so far.
Bought on 6/29/19 with 44 miles.