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Rebel 250 Fuel Tank Pin Holes

5K views 72 replies 10 participants last post by  bweighmaster 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, I just got my wife's Rebel 250 home,I knew there was rust in the tank, but now I'm seeing leakage from 5 pin holes. I was thinking about using the Caswell two-part epoxy treatment, but one hole is actually a stream the hole is somewhere around 1/32" (+/-) in size. Wanted to ask if the Caswell would work for something that big? Thanks!
 
#2 ·
yes it sure will
tape outside of hole, use 1/2 of pint kit...
Caswell is Very viscus and takes some time to roll around inside tank to assure good coverage..
wall coating will slump down to lowest point so keep rotating..

I used less than 1/2 of pint kit some 10 years ago hasn't leaked since..
isn't cheap but provides a thick internal patch unlike some coatings..
 
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#5 ·
Giving up on this tank. The more I abrade the insides with small bolts and nuts, the more places this tank weeps through, just under the paint. Ordered one of the "replacement" tanks and will use the casswells on that tank before installing. I think I'd prefer that to worrying about the wife on an iffy tank.
 
#9 ·
#13 ·
Thanks flitecontrol, got that done, but still having issues. This bike sat for several years, I was surprised it started and ran like a top so easily. I'm thinking I might need to take the carb down and give it a serious cleaning. I will be going through youtube vids for removal and cleaning to get an idea of how to do this. Thanks for the help!
 
#14 · (Edited)
Recommend you install an inline fuel filter befor putting fuel in clean carb, unless you alredy have one.

If it isn't a fuel delivery issue, I'm beginning to suspect electrical issues since you indicated it runs fine up to a point, then shuts down. Pull the fuel line at the carb and drain into a clear container. It should be a small, steady stream.
 
#15 ·
Yep, just before I took possession of the bike the PO installed an inline filter due to the amount of loose rust in the old tank. Took the fuel line loose at the carb, good flow coming out. As long as I have the throttle cracked open a bit, she runs, turn loose the throttle, it cuts off. I adjusted the idle control knob (black plastic thing) some, it idles a bit faster and does not cut off now. Poured a little seafoam in the 2 gallons of gas I just put in, will run that out and see if I can back down the idle. Really think the carb is the issue. Gotta say, I'm darned impressed with the get get up and go of these little bikes, even with my 240 lbs on it. Now to find that horrible rattle between 35 and 40 mph.
Ordering a ultrasonic cleaner for the upcoming carb tear down.
 
#16 ·
The headlight is notorious for rattling. To check, just touch the headlight can while riding. If the noise goes away, that's the problem.

The idle screw should be adjusted when the engine is completely warmed up. Should be at 1,400 rpm give or take 100. Anything lower, and you risk not circulating enough oil. It isn't supposed to idle as low as a lot of Harley's I've heard.

Are you using the choke when starting, and pushing it completely off once warmed up?

Be sure to use high pressure compressed air after cleaning, and get it in all the orifices.
 
#18 ·
You would need a tach to measure rpms. Believe there are fairly inexpensive ones, both temporary and permanent types. I go by ear, but the tach is more precise, especially if you aren't familiar with how "busy" the Rebel should sound at the correct rpms.

I'm wondering if you really need to clean the carb. Before it shuts down, what has been your top speed? Most dirty carb issues cause it to run poorly, if at all. If you are getting up to 35 mph or more and in fifth gear, I would look elsewhere. The fact that it isn't vapor locked and it takes so long to restart it makes me think it might be electrical.
 
#19 · (Edited)
The problem for me is that I am a total newbie with the rebels. My respect for them is growing every day.
Haven't had a delayed restarting since I went ahead and drilled the fuel cap late yesterday. It is running much smoother today, albeit idling just a bit high, no problems getting up to 55 with more throttle to spare, and running up and down through all gears.
I'll hold off on the carb cleaning if it continues as is, winter would be a better time to take it down, the missus is chomping at the bit for me to turn it over to her. Will start researching threads for electrical issues also and look for a temporary tach.
Found the rattle, the new tank fits, but not as well as the old oem tank. Had to create a bushing where the tank bolts at the front, hopefully that will solve that problem. Thanks!
 
#22 ·
Inspection went fine, but on returning home I noticed gas dripping from the overflow tube again. But, it seems better, just dripping instead of pouring as before and I can restart the bike in just a couple minutes after turning the shuttlecock valve to off and the dripping stops. The bike runs great, plenty of power except this one issue.
On another note, I'm seriously considering looking for a Rebel for me, this thing is great fun to ride on our curvy, country roads.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Don't think I've seen a carb with that much corrosion on that cap, but I think it's salvageable, or at least worth a try. I'd polish the corrosion off that shaft to ensure it moves freely.

I've seen plenty that didn't look that good on the outside. Unless a PO has run something through the main jet holder and enlarged the openings, a good cleaning is all they need. I'd get a kit with a new bowl gasket and float valve. If you don't damage the drain and pilot screw O-rings getting them out, they are usually OK. I have no experience using Pine Sol, but that probably won't destroy the rubber parts like Chem Dip does. Just cleaned my grandson's 4-wheeler carb in the ultrasonic cleaner with Chem Dip. Had a wad of old gas in the bottom of the bowl the size of my thumb. An hour with the cleaner on followed by an overnight soak, and it fired right up when installed. Didn't need any replacement parts at all.

If for some reason you wind up getting a replacement carb, I'm usually in the market for complete ones or parts.
 
#26 ·
Ordered a rebuild kit last night, it will be a few days until it arrives so I will have time to give this thing a good cleaning. I just watched a couple videos on valve adjustments, thinking about checking them while the bike is down, but need to pick up a few tools for that.
 
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