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My project

4K views 31 replies 10 participants last post by  abnormalspring 
#1 · (Edited)
Since I purchased the Rebel this is the first weekend I have been able to work on it. I put gas in it would not start. So I ended up having to take the carb apart and cleaned it. I dont know how the guy rode it to my house for delivery as the jets were completely plugged and had a black sandy gel coating covering the entire inside of the carburetor.


I got her put back together and it started had great throttle response. Shut it down when it got later in the day I was going to ride it around the yard and it wont start again. I didn't put a filter on and the petcock screen is missing so I am going to take it apart and clean it again. The manual enrichment valve should be here today as well I purchased a few inline fuel filters.



Since I know it will run I have ordered a few things. New headlight, Brake Master Cylinder, Brake Pads and Shoes, new exhaust donuts, fork seal kit, manual choke valve, Johnny pag hand controls, and a air cleaner. So I have a lot of things to put on it. I still need to get a new clutch handle but im not in a hurry as the one is still functional with a new bolt just loose.


So that is were i am at so far. The wife is complaining about all the money I am spending on such a cheap bike. So next time I am home from work in 3-4 weeks I plan on giving it a oil change, and checking/adjusting the valve clearances as well as getting all the new parts installed. I still need to clean up the wiring I hate butt connectors and having to ohms test every wire to find the other end since somebody chopped it up and added nothing but black wires to it.



So I have a few questions. What is the best way to remove dents from a gas tank ? should I just use bondo ? Also can I buy a new wiring harness ? I would like to buy one instead of buying all the wire and plugs and building on from scratch I can do it, I just don't want to. Once I get the parts put on in a few weeks I will update this thread with some new pictures.


I plan on getting my motorcycle endorsement once the bike will pass inspection. I rode for years with out one but I figure im not a teenager on a 1000cc sport bike anymore. The Rebel is not known for its speed and acceleration.


Link to photo album of bike said images were to large to upload here.
 
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#3 ·
Sounds like there may be crud in the tank and that is what's fouling the carb. In-line fuel filters only cost a few bucks, and it sounds like you need one. http://www.hondarebelforum.com/f39/how-to-install-a-fuel-filter-13278.html

And if you want to clean the tank: http://www.hondarebelforum.com/f39/tank-cleaning-7168.html

Dents don't bother me, but I understand wanting to fix them. Probably the cheapest method is a new tank. The Chinese made, larger volume, tanks are notorious for leaks and I recommend lining them with Caswell epoxy before ever putting fuel in them. https://www.caswellplating.com/epox...oxy-gas-tank-sealer-mini-kit-up-to-5-gal.html

If you go the bondo route, after painting, a two part, fuel resistant, clear coat should be applied.
 
#4 ·
Just a guess but you got a Gen-1 for the love and fun of the restoration, else you would have spent less money on a good running Gen-2 (as the wife said, lol)
From the imgur posts you linked to I couldn't see any bad dents...bondo and paint will cover/hide them, for bad ones a body shop can spot-weld pull points and pop out dents and grind them back off so's you'd never know after the repaint. If the inside of the tank is roached you'd probably be better off with a replacement, much less cost and hassle.
 
#5 ·
I actually got it for $150 so the price was unbeatable. I think I can get a solid running bike for a total of $750. I also like projects every daily driver that I own has an Antique tag and the rebel is only 2 years away from that and is my newest vehicle :lol2: My wife hates how i buy crap then spend money fixing it she thinks i just need to buy something that's new.



The dents are not terrible but since im going to get it to be a daily driver and then strip it down this winter and get the stupid paint job off of it. You cant tell but they sprayed the ceiling popcorn crap on it then painted black over it :surprise: I just don't understand some people. As for the tank its nice and shiny on the the inside I have filled and drained it a few times. I think the cause was the fuel line as it was brittle and flaking i just really wanted to hear it run. With the new fuel line so far no problems.



Also I have a few sticks of lead was thinking of teaching one of the kids how to lead fill old dents as it seem to be a dying art. But the wife screamed about lead poisoning are kids, so I will probably bondo fill as the dents are creased.
 
#7 ·
I remember doing jute and lead seals on household cast iron sewage lines, PVC glue is SO much easier:grin2:
 
#9 ·
I just ordered a new fender for the bike and the Johnny Pag hand controls arrived. Once I get home I am going to be able to put it all back together and go for a ride. I still need to get a seat as it feels like I am sitting on the bars under the seat.



What seats have you guys used that came with good comfort ? Would I be better off just taking the seats apart and getting some 6 inch closed cell foam and redoing them or do new seats really offer that much more comfort? I also saw that the stock throttle cable wont fit the Johnny Pag is there a specific one I need to get to fit ? will any Johnny Pag cable fit the forward controls ?
 
#10 ·
UPDATE


I have got a lot done this week. Got head light hooked up and working along with the left Johnny Pag control. Ran new wires for the rear turn signals and wired in a new flasher relay. It works with out adding diodes as well as long as you have over 4w and it can handle 41 watts. You can also adjust how fast or slow the turn signal blinks. I also got the front fender in and a new master cylinder installed its nice to have front brakes.



Here are some photos of the progress I have made. https://imgur.com/a/ecttQtL


So I found more problems with the bike after I was able to take it for a ride. The previous owner used a pry bar to get the gas cap off once he lost the keys. So now I have to order a new tank. The clutch also slips in 2nd and 3rd gear if I try to accelerate to fast. The chain adjusted all the way to the back has 2 inches of movement and the rear sprocket is work pretty bad. So I am also assuming the front is worn as well.



So hoping next month I can get new clutch plates and chain and sprockets along with a fuel tank. I am thinking about going 15-30 on the gear ratio was wondering if anybody could give me some feed back on doing so. Such as long term damage or problems that it may cause ? I will probably go to 30 in the rear as people seem to really enjoy the 14-30 ratio.



So its looking like I will be investing another $300 into the bike plus paint once its mechanically sound. I cant complain though $150 for the bike and around $350 in parts and its almost done. So I cant complain about $650-$700 bike.



As always appreciate the feedback.
 
#11 ·
Be sure the clutch lever is properly adjusted before rebuilding it. Most clutches begin to slip in the higher gears first.

Definitely replace the chain and both sprockets at the same time. Get good quality parts, such as Sun or JT sprockets and RK or DID chain. Regina chains are very poor quality. You can usually find good quality chains that are longer than the 108 needed for the Rebel, yet cheaper. Go figure. I invested in a Harbor Freight heavy duty chain break tool back when they were $5 and use it to remove the excess links.

I tried the 14/30 combo and noticed a slight reduction in RPMs in the higher gears, but lost top end speed. No change in mileage that I could tell. Went back to stock on the next change. Those Honda engineers did well in matching the engine and gears.
 
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#12 ·
On the sprocket change, I would suggest doing one or the other, not both. Both sprockets changed will give you a 7.5% RPM reduction at all speeds and a corresponding 7.5% increased torque requirement. You will be doing a lot more shifting down into headwinds and on hills in exchange for reduced engine speed.
Even one sprocket change is likely to drop your top speed a little and increase the need to downshift in difficult conditions.
 
#13 ·
Glad to hear the progress is going well, I can't wait to see the next set of pictures.
Previous comment about lead poisoning the kids by your wife got me on another google kick
lead melts at 621°F and releases lead fumes at 900°F which immediately oxidizes into a yellowish/brown dust that is easily inhaled or ingested if one is not meticulous cleaning surfaces, hands, and clothing. A temperature controlled kiln is recommended for smelting & casting lead, since a torch can overheat a small spot while trying to heat up a larger mass.
 
#15 ·
I will look into their seats. I need a new one or need to revive the current one.


Is there supposed to be side to side play in the front sprocket? I would say mine has atleast 1/8 inch play in it. I pulled off my valve cover last night and checked the clearances. had .002 .008 .005 .007 so I decided to set the all to .003 Hoping she wont be so cold blooded or stutter so much when giving it throttle.


My clutch has also stopped slipping. it didn't slip till I gave it an oil change. Then after taking it easy on the throttle I got on it last night and no slip. so im hoping it does not start slipping again. Hoping the cause was just the fresh oil as the oil I drained looked original from the break in period. Just topped off once in awhile.



Ordered new chain and sprockets along with a gas tank. I am hoping it all arrives soon enough i can enjoy it before I have to head back to work.
 
#18 ·
I'd leave the looks just the way they are. I love the patina look. I have 2 old '60s cars that I spent a lot of work and money on making them reliable and safe. But I left the well worn looks alone. I even put personalized plates on one of them that say "SALVAGE"
 
#19 · (Edited)
Well I ended up not doing much with the bike since my last post as I rode through the winter and summer. But it’s actually getting cold this year so I ordered a lot of parts for the bike and started tearing it down.

Have been finding mismatched, broken, and stripped bolts all over the frame so I plan on drilling them out. Decided to strip the bike completely down. Currently still tearing it apart and trying to find somebody to paint it for me.

Things left to be done for the winter are Fork Seals, Springs, Clutch, Tank, Tires, Front Rotor, Fix more bad wiring I found, Turn signals, Get the exhaust welded, Polish all the aluminum, figure out why no mater what the rear brakes don’t work, and repaint the top half the engine with heat dissipating paint.
 

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#20 · (Edited)
More photos all the fork oil spilled onto the floor 😐 I think it was a little low and been in there awhile.
 

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#22 ·
Definitely replace that buggered bolt head if you can get it out. Bike looks like it's been treated to a hack job from a PO that didn't have a clue. What a mess!
 
#23 ·
Yeah the PO has no idea or business touching the bike with wire strippers or wrench’s. But it has been a fun bike and a enjoyable project. I am glad I can be the one bringing it back to life.

Aside from all the broken and stripped bolts I would say cutting out close to 15ft of extra wire and keeping the electrical working has been the most time consuming and the biggest headache in the entire project.

I am glad it will be done this winter probably not as happy as the wife though she seems to think I’m cheating on her with the bike as I spend more time with it then I do her. 😂
 
#24 ·
Decided to polish the forks up a bit after replacing the seals. Got new tires put on it had to do it with some tire spoons since nobody in my town changes motorcycle tires. Got the front fender painted and the rear fender is almost done.

Decided to change what I wanted done with the paint since a reputable place wanted $1,000 to paint it how I wanted and thought that was a bit out of my price range.
 

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#25 · (Edited)
This is how she is currently sitting. Need to finish putting the exhaust on the bike so it can go to a shop to have it welded back in place. Still need to finish polishing the rest of the engine, put the seat and rear fender back on and finish repairing the wiring.

Bike should hopefully be finished in the next 4-6 weeks since I will be going back to work for 3 weeks. It will be dropped off to have the exhaust repaired while I’m at work. Then will hopefully have it put back together and running when I pick it back up.

Let me know what you think of the progress and will update when i get some more things done to her.
 

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#30 ·
Well the bike is 90% complete now. Everything is put back on besides the seat, rear fender, front brake caliper, and wiring.

Waiting on the rebuild kit for the front caliper, and the Bullet connectors for the wiring. Once those come in I will finish putting it together. Also tried my hand at brazing not sure if it looks good for a first timer or not but I put JB Weld SteelStick over it just in case.

Only thing the bike will need is turn signals but those are far from high priority as I’m not sure anybody uses them on a bike anyway.

Also painted a squirrel on the back fender. Figure it couldn’t be plain black and its metallic so should shine when I hit the brakes at night.

Already looking for another project bike. But once this thing is finished and running next month I will post up some more pictures.
 

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#32 ·
Bike is pretty much done now. here are some pictures of the last of the project. https://imgur.com/a/emrtpEw only need to put the back seat on and weld the exhaust but the welder wont be here till tomorrow and the back seat well its snowing and 10 some degrees out so no rush for the back seat to go on.


Well let me know what you guys think of the finished project.
 
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