Gray Oil - Page 3 - Honda Rebel Forum
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post #21 of 38 Old 05-13-2020, 03:01 PM
 
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I've been following this thread closely because it reads like a good mystery novel. And the questions and suggestions have all been intriguing. I'm 70 years old and have hands on experience with internal combustion engines since I was about 10. My first bike(?) was a 1964 Honda supercub C90. I have to say that in all the years of observing used oil I have never seen that grey color you photographed. For sake of simplicity I burn the Honda GN4 10/40w. And I only burn non ethanol gasoline. My '86 250 has a little over 12,000 miles and I change the oil every 1,000 miles. The oil is dark at that point but not, say, coal black. Others on this forum have their own preferences for oil which I would not dispute. However, I'm very curious about the effect (of whatever is contaminating the oil) on the oil's viscosity since that will severely impact the life of the engine, transmission, and clutch. From what I've read so far, I would agree with Guba's point about the grey color resembling aluminum. But in the second and third pics there appears to be a mixture of what I consider to be the normal dark color of used oil, and the grey-ish color. As others have mentioned, it doesn't resemble typical moisture contamination. It will be interesting to see what your son says about clutch performance. Good luck Sherlock!

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post #22 of 38 Old 05-13-2020, 03:35 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tanascar View Post
7milesout, what weight do you suggest for the Rotella? Looks like they only have 15w-40 and 10w-30, I currently use 10w-40 and live in the northeast, so cooler climate.
I run 15W-40. The climate range of 15W-40 is -10F and above. I live in the southeast so no problem. I don't know about you, but I wouldn't be riding at anywhere near -10F anyway.


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2016 Honda Rebel 250 - The "Piglet."
AFR sensor equipped and downsized to a 0.105" main jet.
The only changes so far.
Bought on 6/29/19 with 44 miles.
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post #23 of 38 Old 05-13-2020, 04:29 PM
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I recommend and use 15W-40.

Keepin' all the left over parts. Gonna use 'em to build another bike!

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post #24 of 38 Old 05-13-2020, 07:36 PM
 
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Originally Posted by tanascar View Post
Hi Lexiyntax, I have changed the oil I think 3 times in the past 6 months or so but will do it again and see if it starts improving. I have never adjusted the valves, could this moisture or whatever to get into the oil?
My general thought process is 'badly adjusted valves tends to cause other problems.' As one example it could be causing fuel burning or exhaust problems introducing unusual amounts of soot into the system.

As another excuse to check the valves; it would be nice to see what that engine looks like inside with the valve cover off. Might tell an interesting story.
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post #25 of 38 Old 05-18-2020, 10:11 AM
 
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Lexiyntax - The vast majority of the time, when valves clearances become out of spec from useage, it is too much gap. The problems that arise from that are that the follower doesn't follow the cam profile and the opening ramp up becomes less of a ramp up, and more of a slam up. Which furthers wear and increases noise. And, since the valves won't push open as far, a bit less power too.

But there shouldn't be any way to affect the oil with an out of spec valve clearance.

2016 Honda Rebel 250 - The "Piglet."
AFR sensor equipped and downsized to a 0.105" main jet.
The only changes so far.
Bought on 6/29/19 with 44 miles.
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post #26 of 38 Old 05-21-2020, 09:03 PM
 
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There is a small drain hole on the bottom of the alternator housing only about 1/8" square, housing may be full of water, I had water in mine because the drain was plugged. It will take a short piece of wire with a 90 bend.
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post #27 of 38 Old 05-22-2020, 03:40 PM
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Looks like aluminum in the oil to me. Check the balancer chain tension. If it has too little tension the chain will rub crankcase housing and wear off aluminum to contaminate the oil. If you hold the oil in the light, you will see the glitter of metal flakes. After doing a little research it looks like you don't have a balancer chain in that model, but I'm not sure.
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post #28 of 38 Old 05-23-2020, 11:45 AM
 
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Aluminum would be easy to check just let the oil sit and it will settle to the bottom. Also you could use a multimeter in the oil and check for continuity.
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post #29 of 38 Old 05-24-2020, 08:24 PM
 
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if oil is grey it's getting water in it, i'm not sure how that works on a rebel but it's like white smoke out the exhaust. it's always water in the oil. it can also completely destroy your motor/anything else that oil touches. it's likely a seal somewhere, i'm not talented enough to tell you how to determine which one other than checking every one which means replace every seal after you check it. basically you have a defcon 6 issue with your lube off the top of my head i really can't think how water would get into that motor depending if you store it outside in a monsoon or not.
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post #30 of 38 Old 05-24-2020, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by lhatl250 View Post
if oil is grey it's getting water in it, i'm not sure how that works on a rebel but it's like white smoke out the exhaust. it's always water in the oil. it can also completely destroy your motor/anything else that oil touches. it's likely a seal somewhere, i'm not talented enough to tell you how to determine which one other than checking every one which means replace every seal after you check it. basically you have a defcon 6 issue with your lube off the top of my head i really can't think how water would get into that motor depending if you store it outside in a monsoon or not.
Gray oil is not caused by water, water makes oil a light brown or tan color or milky as previously noted, you can't see into or through it. Gray is caused by aluminum filings.
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