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Help! Turn Signal Problem

28K views 70 replies 21 participants last post by  rpmsongs 
#1 ·
Hello friends, the left turn signal on my '86 250 wont stay blinking. When engaged, it clicks once, and stays on a constant light.

I appreciate your help

Thanks
 
#2 ·
you only the left? both front and back or just one?
 
#9 ·
I know this is an old topic, but I have to bump it...

I have this really weird problem with the turn signals... when I signal for left or right, the front are steadily lit, and the back ones are dead (no blink, no steady lit, not even a flash of temporarily being on).

HOWEVER, when at a constant speed (say, 55-70MPH on a major road or highway), if I turn on either blinker, the suckers blink, for both back and front for both sides!

Bizarre huh? It's so frustrating that it'll work on the freeway, but if I'm at a stoplight, I have to hand signal. I attempted to fix the problem, after I noticed that the rear wires were frayed (I bought the bike second hand and noticed that the wires were frayed... I guess the frame gets low enough that the rear tire has been scraping against the wires and exposing the little metal wires). But now that everything's reconnected/resoldered/replaced, the rear ones don't turn on at all again, this time, regardless of speed -- I should mention: it did work for a little while (maybe two weeks), but now they've gone back to being completely dead again.

I'm tempted to replace the entire wiring harness, but it seems so wasteful when it's only the back turn signals that aren't working (yes, I have checked the connections, matched up ground w/ ground, blue w/ blue, etc). My break light and license plate light do work perfectly, which again, makes me want to just patch or fix the 10% of the wiring that isn't working, than throwing out 90% of perfectly fine wires.

Suggestions? Comments? Thanks in advance
 
#10 ·
Sounds like you need to reset your back spring setting. At a setting of three, your good for 200 lbs of weight. Go up one notch/number for every 50 lbs of weight there after. That will keep the tire from rubbing the wires. From there recheck/fix your wires.
 
#11 ·
Since it worked for a while after you redid it, I would think fixing the tire fraying issue and repairing the wires would get you going. Might want to slip a piece of tubing over the wires for additional protection from tire rubbing.
 
#12 ·
I am having a problem with my turn signals on the 1986 CMX 250. The front left bulb is dead. The Front right, back right and left lights come on but do not blink.

I will check the bulb to make sure that is not the cause.
Check the connections and fuses to make sure every thing is nice and tight.

If that does not get it working, then what. For example, where would I find the relay? tell if it is bad, get a new one. These are not covered in the manual I have.
 
#13 ·
I believe if one bulb goes out they all stop blinking. Just replace the bad bulb and all should be good again.
 
#14 ·
Usaly with one bulb out, the rest blinks FAST.
Usual things that can cause these symptoms are, Bad ground, Bad connections, Low voltage and possibly a bad relay
 
#16 ·
If you can get your hands on a multimeter (can read volts, resistants (ohm) and usaly ampere too).
Then you can measure the resistance to ground (dont know how many ohm's tho).
And the voltage by measuring the contact points either in the bulb socket or where the turn signal is connected to the weiring loom when you try using the turn signal.
Hopefully someone knows how to determine a bad relay. I dont :(
 
#17 ·
that is o9ne of those meter things with the two probes that tell you if there is electricity going from one to the other points, Yes? I think I have one in my tool box, if I can find the tool box:)
 
#18 ·
Hehe. Yes:jumping0045:
Hopefully you got more then just a voltmeter:D

Happy toolbox hunting:happy0018:
 
#24 ·
That's a good idea, but I am going to try the 3 kicks and seafoam first;)

Really, I went by and took another look and found that the bulb on the left signal was not even in the socket. They are not the stock signals, but are attached by a bolt pushed into the boot of the steam and screwed into the hole on the handle bar "thing". What is that part called anyway?
 
#23 ·
The real legacy of Roswell is Goddard's experiments in rocketry but unfortunately Goddard died in '45.
 
#26 ·
Front signals are attached to the top of the triple tree, unless it's a 450. Then they attach to the handlebars.

Have you done the Aspencade ride yet? Did that with some guys from work when I lived out in El Paso. Really nice up there. Never been to Roswell though.
 
#31 ·
What other differences are there between the standard Rebel 250 and the Classic and what years were they made?
 
#32 ·
Classic Reb. 250 85-87. Chrome sidecovers (battery and airfilter housing), Sidestand rubber kick up foot, Parking light position on ignition switch, Handelbar shape, Front brake on right side, larger cooling fins on engine, 49 state models have vented gas caps.
The second gen 250s (96-09) have plastic painted sidecovers, a sidestand lockout switch, no parking light position on the ignition switch, high beam indicator moved from inside speedo to ignition mountplate with the turn and neutral indicators, chomed speedo housing, front brake on the left side, Smaller engine cooling fins but cooling fins added to valve cover, gas tank vent tube and non vented gas cap.
The 01 and up have the H4 headlight and higher output voltage regulator

I know I'm missing some stuff but I can't recall anymore right now.
 
#33 ·
My 250 is a 2001 on an 86 frame. I wasn't sure when the change to the chrome speedo and plastic side covers came about and only recently heard there was a classic version.
 
#34 ·
Hi,
Did you sort this problem? I would be interested to find out what the problem was?

I have had similar problems and it can be due to a number of different issues.
1. Obviously check bulbs (please take no offence).
2. Weak battery. test with multimeter to see if you are getting the right charge when it is off, running and revving.
4. Hook up a charger and try the indicators.
 
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