Rear tire replacement

**kwaltz6** · 07-23-2010, 09:08 AM

How hard would it be to pull off the old tire and mount a new one at my house with a frame lift and basic tools? I can't seem to find any local shops either capable, or willing to just swap a tire for me and I don't want to pay $100 at the dealership for their "mounting fee". Oh it seems like someone's getting mounted alright...

**flitecontrol** · 07-23-2010, 09:33 AM

And they want you to be the mountee!

I've done four tires at home. I invested in some smaller tire irons, which are better than screwdrivers, for avoiding pinching the tubes. Place an old leather glove between the rim and tools so you don't scratch the chrome. Here are some: Motion Pro 11" Tire Iron - Cruiser Motorcycle - Motorcycle Superstore, tire irons items - Get great deals on Parts Accessories items on eBay Motors!

**GearJammer** · 07-23-2010, 02:57 PM

Here's the ticket........works GREAT! One thing to keep in mind tho' is that the rear tire bead can be a REAL bear to break by hand as most rear tires have a steel cord around the bead area. If you can take the wheel to a tire shop or regular garage, they might be cool enough to use their hydraulic bead breaker to break the bead and then you can do the rest using the info that "flitecontrol" provided........Also, with this tire changing rig, you have to build a base for it. Not difficult......sheet of plywood, electric drill and some lag bolts, good to go.........

Motorcycle Tire Changer Attachment

Edit: Also check out the Portable Tire Changer to the lower left of the larger linked pic.....the long tire changing tool resting against that one came with my rig (got it as a gift) Plenty of leverage with that one.......

**flitecontrol** · 07-23-2010, 03:16 PM

That is a nice piece of equipment to have. I used a couple of C-clamps and short pieces of wood to break the bead. Here's some home made bead breaker links: Internet BMW Riders - DIY $5 Bead Breaker that works every time ... quickly motorcycle notes : Home Made Bead Breaker,

Elevate the tire rim on boards to keep the bottom chrome rim off the ground and the front rotor clear when you do the front tire.

**Tim** · 07-23-2010, 03:21 PM

I used a 2x4 frame that I built to pull my VW bug engine. I used Walmart ratchet straps to secure the bike like I do for hauling, A strap on each side of the handlebars and pull the bike vertical another over the rear seat and around both sides of the swing arm forward of the axle bolt with a wooden block between the straps for a spreader so I didn't pinch the sear and a come along to lift the rear of the bike, it worked for me. It's best to loosen every thing that needs to be removed while the rear bike is on the ground, it swings around when you lift it off the ground.

**GearJammer** · 07-23-2010, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flitecontrol

That is a nice piece of equipment to have. I used a couple of C-clamps and short pieces of wood to break the bead. Here's some home made bead breaker links: Internet BMW Riders - DIY $5 Bead Breaker that works every time ... quickly motorcycle notes : Home Made Bead Breaker,

Elevate the tire rim on boards to keep the bottom chrome rim off the ground and the front rotor clear when you do the front tire.

Thanx, "flitecontrol"......Was able to change the front tire on the 250 Reb by hand (before the Harbor Freight rig) but didn't own the 250 long enough to have to change the rear tire. Have been able to break the bead on 16" tires (Triumph) by using the C-clamps.....but on the 450 Reb ? Unbelievable! Two of us couldn't even budge the bead. Tried C-clamps, tried rolling over the tire portion by carefully and slowly driving over it with a car tire. Would not budge. We literally ended up cutting the dang tire off. I kid you not. That Dunlop REALLY liked where it was and wanted to stay there, LOL! After that experience, the next rear tire that I had to change went straight to the local garage and he used the hydraulic bead breaker on it for me. Made life a lot easier.......

**GearJammer** · 07-23-2010, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim

I used a 2x4 frame that I built to pull my VW bug engine. I used Walmart ratchet straps to secure the bike like I do for hauling, A strap on each side of the handlebars and pull the bike vertical another over the rear seat and around both sides of the swing arm forward of the axle bolt with a wooden block between the straps for a spreader so I didn't pinch the sear and a come along to lift the rear of the bike, it worked for me. It's best to loosen every thing that needs to be removed while the rear bike is on the ground, it swings around when you lift it off the ground.

That's pretty ingenious, Tim and right on! Lots of folks have to find ways to jack these Rebs up because of the exhaust pipes being in the way. Not sure if it would work on a 250, but on the 450 I use a scissors jack from an old Toyota SR5......I place the top of the scissors jack in the middle of the frame cross-member that's near the exhaust crossover pipe. PLEASE NOTE: I don't place the jack on the exhaust, but under the center of the frame cross-member. The top of the scissors jack will pivot, so once it's been raised enough to get some weight on it, I can pivot the bottom of the jack towards the right side, then use an extension with a socket on it to continue raising the bike with a ratchet. Front wheel is pointed to the left, kickstand is down, jack is underneath for 3 points of stabilization and it's being raised by leveraging the scissors jack from the right side of the bike. Quick 'n easy.....at least for the 450.

**shadetree** · 07-23-2010, 05:21 PM

My Floor jack fits under mine and only touches the exhaust for the first inch or two if I don't lean it a little bit. Just set it on the cross bar of the frame right in front of the swing arm and it will balance on the jack and front tire.

**flitecontrol** · 07-23-2010, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GearJammer

Two of us couldn't even budge the bead. Tried C-clamps, tried rolling over the tire portion by carefully and slowly driving over it with a car tire. Would not budge. We literally ended up cutting the dang tire off. I kid you not. That Dunlop REALLY liked where it was and wanted to stay there,

Had much the same experience with the rear (tubeless) Dunlop on my Vulcan! Think I finally got it to break with C-clamps and a rubber hammer. Was really impressed/incredulous/mad that driving the truck over the tire didn't break it loose. Those tires had been on for 10-20 years! The 2X4 bead breaker looks like a definite possibility the next time.

**GearJammer** · 07-24-2010, 12:00 PM

*whew*......glad to hear that we weren't the only ones to encounter the amount of disbelief at how difficult it was and you know I can definitely hear you on the frustration that you went thru as well.

The 16" was a tubed tire, the 450 Reb is tubeless front & rear and wondering if this also adds to the tight seating of the bead (along with the number of years the tire had been on there, as you've mentioned) Front tire was no problem, rear tire was a nightmare......

If the 2x4 "breaks" before the bead does, please think "Go hydraulic", LOL!

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