GIT

Ok I'm a very new rider to motor cycles on the road. I notice that at high speeds I will get a wobble in the front wheel. I first thought this was due to the crack on the interstate when I was switching lanes, but then I started noticing the wobble when I was not switching lanes, ma have been in a grove.
I guess Im wondering is some wobble of the front wheel normal? I mean I always recover easily and it feels like its not so much in the handle bars but in the wheel like its loose. I checked that right off and its not loose. could it be the laces in the wheel?

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"Nothing happens until something moves."
1997 Honda Rebel CMX250.

JunkyardDog

First of all, even the slightest wobble is not normal for a street bike wheel. Put something under the engine to get the front wheel off the ground, and spin it by hand. If it (the rim, not the tire) has side to side or up and down movement, it is bent, and either needs to be trued or replaced. Also check the wheel bearings to make sure they are not loose, and the brake disc to make sure it is not warped. If all this doesn't turn up anything, then check to make sure the tire is seated properly on the rim (there should be a small ridge around the tire on both sides, very close to the rim). If that is ok, spin it again, and see if the tire moves side to side or up and down. If it does, but the rim was ok, you have a bad tire. If everything looks ok, you probably have an out of balance tire, which can be rebalanced. Jerry.

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cagie

One other thing to check is the neck bearing nut.

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Comments contained in my posts are not intended to cause physical or psychological stress and are mearly my two cents worth, and in this economy, that's cheap!
87 CMX250C 'the Pygmy Pony'
87 CMX450C 'Black Lithium'

flitecontrol

Check the pressure in the tires too. Around 30 in the front and 32 in the rear is about what I run.

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I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!

2001 Rebel 250, 1989 Vulcan 750
Putting your bike info in your signature helps others help you!

JunkyardDog

This is somewhat controversial, but I run the tire pressure recommended by the tire manufacturer, which you can find molded into the sidewall. It says "max pressure" but tire manufacturers always leave some leeway, so you will not get into trouble with using that pressure. It is well within the acceptable range. IMO, and based on experience, a tire is safer and will last a little longer if it is just slightly overinflated than if it is slightly underinflated. If a tire is more than just slightly underinflated, the sidewall will flex, the tire will get hot, and eventually come apart. Being overinflated will just wear out the center of the tread faster. I have never liked the feeling of mushy tires on cars or bikes. Jerry.

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GIT

Well thank you! I will try all that tmrw and see what turns up. I have my doubts about the wheel I see no weights for balance on it and the spokes all sound diffrent when I pluck them, looks pretty bad to me and that goes for the tire to. My spedo doesnt work either so I would like to look at that gear at some point, I guess this is it. Im going to order the O.E.M manual in the morning since Im sure it will be helpful. But Im glad you said that because I really didnt like the feel of the wobble at all and I have been sticking to the back roads.

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"Nothing happens until something moves."
1997 Honda Rebel CMX250.

JunkyardDog

If the wheel is out of true, take it to a shop (NOT a franchised new bike dealer). Properly truing a wheel requires a great deal of skill and experience, it is real easy to make it worse, even make it unsafe. Having some of the spokes overtightened and some of them under tightened can cause them to break, even if the wheel if fairly straight. If you want to practice, get a book on the subject, a truing stand (can be homemade), a spoke wrench, and an old wheel, and go at it. That's the only way to learn.


I have built a lot of bicycle wheels and dirtbike wheels, but I don't like to mess with steel streetbike wheels. They are the hardest ones to get right. Jerry.

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flitecontrol

If you order the service manual from a stealership, it runs $60-80. Got my brand new Honda manual for $20 and a Clymer for about $30 from ebay.

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I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!

2001 Rebel 250, 1989 Vulcan 750
Putting your bike info in your signature helps others help you!

JunkyardDog

I definitely would not get it from a Honda stealership. You will get ripped off big time. Ebay is a good place to look, also used bookstores (I found a Haynes manual for my '72 Ford Pinto at a used bookstore). Also, you can try your local library for the Clymer. It covers more than one model, but covers the Rebel very well. Another source, especially if you need it now, is an online manual from cyclepedia.com for $20. You get 1 year access, but you can copy it to CD and keep it forever. Printing an online manual is usually not a good idea, at least not the whole thing. It will cost you more in printer ink than it would to buy a good used manual. Jerry.

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GIT

Well I already ordered the manual from Honda House 40$ but hey Casey Cycle City told me 78$! But I see what you guys mean by "stealership."
$3, 4$ 6$ nuts and bolts that I can get at the depot for .20 cent. Any how I checked the tire with it off the ground Im sure I need a Tire and I am leaning towards the bearings as well. I want to get it off the ground a little better to check the rim but if that bad Im just going to get a used one off ebay or some thing.

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"Nothing happens until something moves."
1997 Honda Rebel CMX250.