JunkyardDog

Ok. Also just want to let you know that while most dealers are a rip off, and their parts are priced too high, you can't just use any nut or bolt on a motorcycle even if it fits. Those cheap hardware store bolts are not strong enough. Home Depot and Lowes DO sell some high grade nuts and bolts, for metric bolts, they will say 8.8 on the head, which is similar in strength to SAE grade 8. Make sure any bolts you use on your bike say 8.8 on them. Allen bolts are rarely marked, but are almost always 8.8 or higher. Also, many of the stock bolts on a motorcycle are flanged, if you use regular bolts, you will need to use a washer with them. Jerry.

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GIT

I hear you there, the depot is limited and it seems like every thing has a collar or grommet that goes with it. The majority of the bike seems to be there but one rusty nut on a shiney piece of chrome ruins the whole piece you know. Some one that knows about these bikes would probably think Im nuts for ridinig it like I do, I take it on regular round trips of 100 to 150 miles or so I really think its just from neglect and cosmetics are needed.
The only thing that really jumped out at me was the end cap for the swing arm on one side is missing, the post and threads are there for the chain adjuster but the cap and nuts are gone so I thought this cant be good. Haha Also to my advantage I have two 70's model CB550 to use for parts none of them really fit but alot of the bolts and things are the same.
Chris

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"Nothing happens until something moves."
1997 Honda Rebel CMX250.

Guba

I had a difficult time getting my bead to sit properly on the rim, it gave me a wobble. Check to make sure that the bead is even all the way around. If not you'll have to unseat it and lube it to reseat. I had to inflate my tire to 70+psi to get it to seat. Tires will withstand 2X the pressure listed on it, but only for seating the bead.

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Some days beer tastes good...other days beer tastes better!

'07 Rebel 250 26,000 miles

oneway

I also have a wobble, its not all the time just occasionaly. I have just over 7000 miles on the bike. I figure the wobble is there to keep me awake on long rides!

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flitecontrol

^It might shorten your ride one day. I'd try to find the cause and fix it.

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I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!

2001 Rebel 250, 1989 Vulcan 750
Putting your bike info in your signature helps others help you!

shadetree

Mine has a slight wobble also but I attribute that to the former owner letting it sit for long periods on concrete. I prefer plywood or cardboard under the whole bike.

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cagie

I'm going to throw my two cents worth in here.

First, does everone know how to handle a wobble?



Here's what I learned:

• Don't try to accelerate out of a wobble, it will only make it worse.
• Get a firm grip but don't fight it.
• Let off the throttle gradually to slow. Don't brake as it can make it worse.
• Put your weight forward and as low as possible
• Get off the road when it is safe and as quickly as possible.
• Don't ride it again until the problem has been resolved.

What could be wrong?

• A common cause, steering head bearings. Check the top lock nut. It is under the Steering Stem Nut and washer. People often over look this because the chrome nut is tight, but the lock nut underneath is loose (I had this problem and now look for it.) Make sure the bearings are all there (for a classic that has loose bearings there should be 21) and they are properly lubed. Make sure the races are not bent or worn beyond tolerances.
  • To check, like mentioned above, jack front end off ground and check for any up/down side/side movement of steering neck. There should not be any.
• Loose/damaged spokes.
• Tire out of balance.
• Rim out of true.
• Uneven wearing or cupping of tires.
• Bulging side wall.
• Improper inflation of tires (book pressure, not tire manufacturer rated pressure, usually around 28-29psi for the Rebel IIRC).
• Fork oil bad or leaking out. Springs going bad on one side.
• Wheel bearing going bad, out of round causing axle to move.

All these things are just what I could think of off the top of my head. All 'could' be very dangerous if left unattended. YMMV

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Comments contained in my posts are not intended to cause physical or psychological stress and are mearly my two cents worth, and in this economy, that's cheap!
87 CMX250C 'the Pygmy Pony'
87 CMX450C 'Black Lithium'

oneway

I attribute my wobble to the fact that I have about 4000 miles with a leaking fork tube. The tube must be almost completely dry by now. Handles funky in corners and bumps.
Before anyone gets excited I will replace the seals soon.

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GIT

Maybe its just me. I didnt know you had to seat the bead on a tire with a tube but hey Im no tire expert either way Im still saving up pennies for new tires and bearings, I also have new problems arise.
I went to ride the other day and the starter relay clicked . I checked the ground wire to the battery and all the cables seem good tight and clean, tried it again and the relay clicked and I noticed all my lights go out then they poped back on but dim and slowly got brighter. Hit the start button and the starter motor turned over and then stoped after two turns and lost power again. So I kept trying it and every time I hit the starter button the relay clicks and all the lights go out then it wont click untill the lights come back. Checked the battery with a test light nice and bright all lights on press the start button relay clicks all lights go out and the test light as well went dim. I went to work came home tried it and the bike started right up but the head light was pulseing cut it off tryed it again and the relay clicks and all lights go out.
Im not a fan of electrical, but Im thinking its the relay just dont understand why all the lights go out.

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"Nothing happens until something moves."
1997 Honda Rebel CMX250.

cagie

When you hit the starter button it kills all of the other circuits to give all power over to the starter. When you release the starter button, the light come back on. But since you have put a drain on the battery and the bike is not running the lights are dim because the battery doesn't have enough juice. A test light isn't going to tell you if you have enough charge, just that there is some. You need a Volt meter to tell you whether you have enough. You can get a Volt/Ohm Meter (VOM) cheap at walmart for under $20 and they are a valuable asset for the toolbox. If you don't have one already, you should also invest in a trickle charger. Battery Tender is one of the most common and is under $20 as well.

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Comments contained in my posts are not intended to cause physical or psychological stress and are mearly my two cents worth, and in this economy, that's cheap!
87 CMX250C 'the Pygmy Pony'
87 CMX450C 'Black Lithium'