Clutch problem

**stanHetrick** · 12-26-2011, 07:37 PM

Problem: After changing clutch pads clutch won't disengage.

Guys! We're new here and can't figure out how to post a new question

But ours is directly related to this one!

My son just got a '07 Rebel w/ <10k miles. After a while the clutch started slipping.
SO - We just changed the friction pads, but not the metal rings or springs.

Problem now is that clutch won't disengage.

This is what we tried:
1) putting it togeter we seated the 4 spring bolts. After assembly, there was no clutch (pressure) at all (only the lifter return spring)
2) Backed off the spring bolts 'Some' and it seemed to have half clutch
3) Backed it off more and the side casing wouldn't fit
4) adjusted the spring length by loosing/tightening the spring bolts until there was ~1/8 inch lifter lever play when assembled.
5) Then adjusted the lower linkage to where the clutch seems to have ~1/4 - 1/2 in play before it engages. And the sidecover lever seems to come all the way up.

BUT: It will start in neutral but with clutch lever pulled, it stalls dropping it into 1st.

What are we missing?????

**Buickguy** · 12-26-2011, 07:47 PM

Got the new thread for you.

**mojorisn** · 12-26-2011, 08:02 PM

I'm not sure why you're having the problem but I do know the clutch spring bolts should be seated.

**flitecontrol** · 12-26-2011, 08:10 PM

Did you use a torque wrench when putting it back together? Did you stake the lock nut after torqueing it to specs? Were the correct thickness plates used? Did you soak the plates in oil for an hour or so before installing? Was the judder spring installed correctly?

When bikes with low miles begin to show signs of cluth slippage, it's usually a result of using energy conserving oil, such as 10W-30, in the bike. Avoid these like the plague or the new clutch will begin slipping too.

Welcome to the forum, BTW.

**stanHetrick** · 12-26-2011, 08:43 PM

Ans:
1) "Did you use a torque wrench when putting it back together?"- Hand seated 4 spring bolts at first. Apx 7ft/lbs.
2) "Did you stake the lock nut after torqueing it to specs?" Used air impact wrench to put it it back to the same place (but a 1/4 in further) in order to have material to 'stake'.
3) "Were the correct thickness plates used?" From Cycle gear. EBC plates. CK Series- Heavy Duty Original Equipment Quality Clutch Plate Set. #CK1191
4) "Did you soak the plates in oil for an hour or so before installing?" Actually soaked for TWO DAYS. As we were assembling materials and finally cut down a 21mm socket to make a center bolt remover.
5) "Was the judder spring installed correctly?" We were careful not change anything - or at least we tried very hard to assemble EXACTLY the way it came out. And I feel everything was went in the same (Though something is obvously wrong

6) "show signs of cluth slippage, it's usually...10W-30". Used Castrol 4T Motorcycle Oil SAE 10W-40

My thought:
1) When the spring bolts are 'seated' it seams like they are too far in. So no clutch at all, so spring tension wouldn't be an issue. But one would 'think' that the spring bolts would/should be tight???
2) The 'old' friction plates look pretty good-Alot like the new ones. Are they supposed to look warn out like disc brake pads? should I post a pic of the 'old' friction pads? Would that add anything to the mix?

**mojorisn** · 12-26-2011, 09:13 PM

The spring bolts should be tight. Here is a link to a schematic so you can make sure nothing was left out when you reinstalled the clutch.
2007 Honda CMX250C REBEL Parts, 2007 Honda CMX250C REBEL OEM Parts - BikeBandit.com

**flitecontrol** · 12-26-2011, 09:14 PM

If the PO (previous owner) used energy conserving oil, the old plates will look like new ones, but they'll slip.

Did you count the number of turns when removing the lock nut? Could you have gone 1 1/4 turns or more from the original placement?

**stanHetrick** · 12-26-2011, 09:53 PM

Thanks guys for the help. This DIY stuff is great when it works =(

1) "Did you count the number of turns when removing the lock nut? Could you have gone 1 1/4 turns or more from the original placement?" Wow. Don't think so. We observed that the 'skirt' was at the end of the shaft. Went back to the same place. Because we used the air gun, wonder if something was pinched. Seemed to turn slowly.
2) the 'Judder springs' were #5 & #13. On the outside, just like pic. Bowed to the inside. Just the way it came out.
3) WHY? is #7 different that the other #6's??
4) Don't actually recall #21. Hm... #14 was attached to sidecover. The only thing we did differently was turn around #1. Turned the label 'this side out' to the outside. Though both sides did seem the same. #'s 19,16&10 were seated into #10 and didn't come apart.

**mojorisn** · 12-26-2011, 10:12 PM

I don't know why they have one plate listed as #7 and the rest #6. If you used the correct EBC plates then they should be fine so don't worry about #7 being different. All of the clutch kits I have seen for the Rebel have all the same size friction plates.

**stanHetrick** · 12-27-2011, 12:38 PM

Well... Off to pull it apart again... Too many more times & the oil cost will exceed Honda service =(
So- plan to tork the center clutch lock nut. It's just not off a quarter of an inch in width. Maybe a quarter turn, or 1&1/4 turns but not a quarter inch in depth, the full pull of the clutch cable. But will keep you guys posted!
About oil, isn't 10-40 'lighter' / 'thinner' than 10-30?? The OEM Tune-Up kits have 10-30? So what is the best oil to use???
Thanks for all your help!