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Where to get a carb kit for a 2009 CMX250c Rebel

7K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  76Paw 
#1 ·
New guy here,
I'm doing a favor for a friend, his 2009 Rebel 250 has been sitting for a while, and the carb looks like it was filled with syrup :lol2:

I've been looking for a carb rebuild kit for it, and I'm coming up empty. Everything stops at 2006, though I feel like I could safely put that on the 2009.
My other problem is, the kits I'm finding are just o-rings. No jets and no idle air screw.

What are you guys using for rebuild/repair kits on newer Rebels?

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Welcome to the forum.

Berrymans Chem Dip is what most use. Soak only the metal parts because it will destroy rubber or plastic. The bowl gasket, float and float valve, carb drain screw O-ring and idle adjustment screw O-ring should not go in the Chem Dip. Be careful not to lose the idle adjustment screw washer. Let the metal parts soak in it for 48 hours to a week, then flush well with water and immediately blow out all the orifices with high pressure air. That should do the job.

Or if you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner, you can get it clean in an hour or so.
 
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#6 ·
bowl gasket w/o-ring attached for accelerator pump
drain screw o-ring
idle mix screw o-ring
float needle


check the vacuum cylinder and accelerator pump, mine had age cured and shrunk and couldn't be re-seated.
 
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#8 ·
That one should work as all the carbs for 1996 on are all the same. If you happen to have a California model bike, those carbs are a little different in that they have some CARB stuff on them. If you have one of those, most folks just plug the top tube that connects to the test of the emission control system. There have been numerous issues of the carbon canister contents getting back in the carb and fouling things up.

It's a little late since you already ordered the kit, but normally a thorough cleaning of the carb is all that is required. Most carbs don't need a full kit. Maybe a bowl gasket and new float valve, but that's usually it.
 
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#11 ·
I guess that I have to ask, what all are you expecting to find in a "carb kit". In all my years, I don't think that I have ever used one, unless maybe on a Stihl chainsaw, and only because they would not sell the parts that I needed individually. Most of the carbs that I have cleaned were just put back together with the same parts including gaskets. I have replaced parts like leaking floats, float needle valves that didn't seat, diaphragms with holes in them, and gaskets that were damaged, but never just because.

If you need to change the jetting to overcome a lean or rich condition, then that is not a kit either but a trial and error endeavor of trying different sized individual jets until you find the right combination.

Kits in my opinion are put together by the vender in order to get you to buy more parts. While they are cheaper than buying all the parts individually, they are almost always more expensive than just buying what you really need, and the vender is making more money.
 
#12 ·
I've rebuilt a lot of carbs on ATVs and dirtbikes. I buy a "carb kit" when I can, because it makes things a little easier.
Typically they come with gasket, o-ring, idle air screw (with o-ring, spring and washer), the plunger thing for the float, sometime they also come with the slider needle and jets.

When carbs sit a long time, or sit with ethanol fuel, the rubber parts, shrink or deteriorate. A carb kit insures everything is fresh and ready to go.

And typically a carb kit as as cheap, if not cheaper, than just ordering one or two of those parts from a dealer.
 
#13 ·
Your bike, your choice. Just relaying my experience over 40 years of working on various engines, including dirt bikes, street bikes, 4 wheelers, chainsaws, lawn mowers, go carts, golf carts, cars, trucks, tractors, and combines. Hope you find what you are looking for and get it running soon.
 
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