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Slow, Low Power, What's UP?

3K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  flitecontrol 
#1 ·
Hi Everyone!
My wifes' '06 Rebel/ has recently acquired an "attitude". It'll go, just not at the speed you would like or expect it to. It starts and runs fine. I would say that the power loss currently makes the bike unsafe in traffic and thus, unrideable until I find the problem and solve it. So, I would really appreciate any advice you might offer that would help with this.

Having owned three Rebels, I have some experience with this bike. I own a Clymers for the Rebel and have learned a lot, especially on your forum.

I currently own two. Both have been well-maintained and I have not modded the engines/exhaust/carbs.

I pulled the plugs to inspect. They look normal.

I replaced the fuel filter.

I added carb cleaner to the gas and ran it through the motor.

I always carefully winterize with Stabil to prevent carb gumming.

New air filter.

Not sure what might be causing this power loss. Your thoughts...
 
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#2 ·
I thought I would add the following:

When replacing the old, in-line fuel filter, it was not rusty or dirty in appearance. Blowing air into it backwards it did not have high resistance. It had been on the bike for 5 years or so, so it was more of a trouble-shooting measure to eliminate it as a factor. Also, the fuel flow was normal, not restricted, after replacing with new filter.
 
#5 ·
It's the clutch. I took it out for a spin and it was plain as day. The motor ran fine. The clutch wasn't sending power to the rear wheel evenly. Whew! So glad it wasn't the carb. I've done a couple carb rebuilds and they're not my favorite, haha!

So, I ordered some friction plates from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KS735Y8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and springs

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IUQG4U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and a special tool

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WJBLDE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do I HAVE to have a new clutch cover gasket?

If so, where is the best place to get one, best price?

The clutch plates that arrived were only friction plates (with little squares on them) not the flat spacers.
Will I need to carefully sand any glaze off the flat metal spacers with a green scratch pad? Suggestions?
This is a new procedure for me. Any helpful tips or suggestions are greatly appreciated!😊
 
#6 ·
Do I HAVE to have a new clutch cover gasket?

If so, where is the best place to get one, best price?

The clutch plates that arrived were only friction plates (with little squares on them) not the flat spacers.
Will I need to carefully sand any glaze off the flat metal spacers with a green scratch pad? Suggestions?
This is a new procedure for me. Any helpful tips or suggestions are greatly appreciated!😊
 
#7 ·
Do I HAVE to have a new clutch cover gasket? Yes, because that side has to seal perfectly.

If so, where is the best place to get one, best price? Haven't looked in a while, but a guy on ebay used to sell a complete gasket set for $14. If you know how, you can trace out and make your own. Look up a how-to video on Youtube if you are interested in DIY.

The clutch plates that arrived were only friction plates (with little squares on them) not the flat spacers.
Will I need to carefully sand any glaze off the flat metal spacers with a green scratch pad? Suggestions? You can use very fine sandpaper to remove any glazing.
This is a new procedure for me. Any helpful tips or suggestions are greatly appreciated!��
Follow the instructions in your manual. Be sure to install the judder spring in the proper orientation. Soak the plates in engine oil for an hour or so before installing. I do not recommend following Clymer manual instructions in using the rear brake to hold things when you remove or install the clutch basket. Ask me why if you are thinking that's a good way to do it. If you do a tag search here on the forum for clutch tool, you'll see examples (if Photosucket hasn't deleted them) of how simple it is to make your own.
 
#8 ·
Hi Flitecontrol!
Thanks for getting back to me!

OK, well I did go ahead and get a new gasket. But my question regarding gasket replacement was based on two youtube videos that showed clutch rebuilds done without a new gasket, apparently without an issue. The clutch cover came off without tearing and the gasket was still usable. So that was why I asked that question.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...D8F74C7696368B8EA8F6D8F74C7696368&FORM=VRDGAR

Follow the instructions in your manual.
Check

Be sure to install the judder spring in the proper orientation.
Check

Soak the plates in engine oil for an hour or so before installing.
Mine have been soaking for days. Not a problem, right?

I do not recommend following Clymer manual instructions in using the rear brake to hold things when you remove or install the clutch basket. Ask me why if you are thinking that's a good way to do it.

Why? haha! I was planning to put the bike in 5th gear. When using a ratchet/special tool/modified socket to remove the spanner nut what did you use to prevent clutch turning (if you didn't use the rear brake)? A block of wood in front of the tire?

If you do a tag search here on the forum for clutch tool, you'll see examples (if Photosucket hasn't deleted them) of how simple it is to make your own.

Thanks for that heads-up. I've made those before and they work fine. This time I figured I would just get the tool rather than make it.

Anyway, I'm all set with clutch plates, springs, special tool and gasket ready to attack this. Here goes!
 
#9 ·
The right side gasket is a paper gasket. It's not likely many could remove the cover without tearing it, but even if you did, It would be compressed and not likely to make a secure seal a second time. The only gaskets that are consistently reusable are the neoprene types used on the valve covers of many bikes now, and some heavy fiber types on small tappet covers etc. A paper gasket should be replaced every time it is disturbed.
 
#11 ·
You can get a gasket removal compound that will soften the gasket and make it easy to scrape off. I just use a dull chisel myself and take great care not to scratch or mark the gasket surfaces.
 
#12 ·
Yeah, I went to an auto parts place to buy some Permatex Gasket Remover. After reading the label, I found out it was for silicone and other chemical gaskets. No mention of paper gaskets. So I returned it. I know water will soften paper. WD-40 may work as well.

I have read that hard plastic scrapers are safe to use. I'll figure something out. Thanks Duckster!
 
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