Idle Problem?

**Projekt Deathone** · 03-13-2010, 03:17 PM

Hi there can any one direct me in the right direction?

My bike runs great but here is the issue.

I turn the bike on with the idle high, after a few minutes I put in in the middle, then once I turn it all the way off it stays on for a while then starts sputtering then dies.. I checked the battery its great, I even put Seafoam this morning and no white smoke came out and it didnt seem to make a difference.

When I rode it around I left the choke open smack in the middle and rode it around perfectly with no problem at all. Everything sounded great and ran great but then again when I turned the choke off completely it stayed on for a while then died..

Any advice on whats the next thing I should check?

Thanks, Marie

**Projekt Deathone** · 03-13-2010, 03:34 PM

Oh ya, I also like to point out, yes I know its bad to ride with the choke on but this was just something I was doing while I was checking out to see what the problem was. Also my bike is a 2003 Honda Rebel 250.
Thanks again

**flitecontrol** · 03-13-2010, 05:23 PM

Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear you are having some problems.

Assume you tried to turn the choke completely off at speed and it would die? Sounds like a fuel/carb problem.

1. Is the gas fresh? If not, replace.
2. Is there an inline fuel filter, and is it unclogged? Install one as needed.
3. Check to make sure there are no cracks or leaks in the fuel line.
4. Look inside the tank to see if it is rusty. If yes, let us know.
5. Remove the carb and clean it. Do not get carb cleaner on any non-metallic (rubber, plastic) carb parts. Use compressed air to blow out all the openings/jets. Wear eye protection so you don't get carb cleaner in your eyes. Really not hard to do, especially if you have a service manual. There are how-to pictures posted on this forum.
6. Let us know if you still have problems.

This should cover most of the possible causes for what you are experiencing.

**Guba** · 03-14-2010, 01:46 AM

As flite pointed out, it can be a number of things. But I always look for the easy stuff first. If someone was cleaning the bike it would be possible to inadvertantly change the carb adjustment. Under the carb are two adjusting screws. One is the pilot screw, it has a limiter cap on it to keep it from turning past a certain point. The other is the throttle stop screw, and it has a little knob on it that might be turned quite a bit. It's on the right side of the carb and hangs downward. Idle speed is adjusted with the throttle stop screw. You could play with it and see if the idle speed changes for the better or worse. If you have a tachometer handy and wish to use it, the idle speed is 1,400 rpm + or - 100 rpm.

And welcome to the forum Marie.

**Projekt Deathone** · 03-25-2010, 09:34 PM

Thank You for replying. I think you are right about the carb. I looked at it and there was a small area around it that had some black gunk on the outside.I wiped it off and it looked pretty dirty..so I can only imagine what the inside looks like
I hope its easy to remove and clean. I better check out all I can about Carbs before I try to remove and clean it and Guba thanks for letting me know where the idle is I did move it and it did help but Im thinking its only going work for a while before it finally just turns off and not want to start at all.

**flitecontrol** · 03-25-2010, 11:35 PM

There is a pictorial for disassemly of a 250 carb here on the forum.

JunkyardDog · 03-26-2010, 04:04 PM

Welcome to the Forum. First of all, virtually all idle problems are carb or fuel supply related. I would check and make sure you are getting enough fuel to the carb (you can turn the petcock off, remove the fuel line from the carb, and stick it in a container, then turn the petcock back on. You should get a nice steady fuel flow. Turn the petcock off, and reinstall the fuel line on the carb) If you got a nice steady fuel flow, then you are getting gas to the carb, and the problem will be in the carb itself. Fortunately the Rebel, although a twin, only has one carb, and it is easy to remove and reinstall, and fairly easy to work on. My '04 was running fine when I bought it, but as is my usual practice when buying a used bike, I removed and cleaned the carb anyway. It was filthy inside. I'm surprised it ran so well. I would remove and clean the carb. If you run into any problems, post here, someone will be able to help you. One of the neat things about owning a Rebel is this forum. Jerry.

**GGrider** · 03-29-2010, 09:15 AM

Hi All, I'm still having this problem but haven't run a full tank with SeaFoam yet. Only about 40 miles so far. Is there a dif between Berryman-12 and SeaFoam? The former is much less $$ and neither list ingredients to compare. Put new CST's on yesterday and "wow!", nice to run on new tires! Also want to know if I need a special tool to change the spring-load shocks in back. It's currently set one down from the highest setting. I'm 115lb and am not sure what the best setting is but it sometimes feels a bit soft. Could just be the light weight of the bike??
ttys!

**flitecontrol** · 03-29-2010, 09:53 AM

Totally different products and ingredients. Sea Foam will not hurt any of the plastic or rubber components in the system. IIRC, the Berryman is to be used for cleaning metal parts and applied directly to the carb. You can drain the gas from the carbs and fill with straight Sea Foam. Don't think Berryman's recommends this. For ingredients, google MSDS for each product. A member here posted the following home made Sea Foam recipe:

"The ingredients for Seafoam are naphtha (aka white gas, Coleman fuel, lighter fluid), isopropanol (aka isopropol alcohol), and pale oil (light oil). For alcohol I use the 91% stuff sold in drug stores. For oil I use Dexron ATF. Usually mix it about 1 qt Coleman fuel, 1 pint alcohol, 1/2 pint ATF. Seems to work just as good as the store bought stuff."

If there is an insoluble bit of something (like rust from the tank) clogging a jet, about the only way to get it out is pull the carbs, soak them, and blow out the orifices with compressed air. Wear eye protection so you don't get carb cleaner in your eyes.

If you haven't already done so, check the tank for rust and install inline fuel filter.

If the shocks are still good, it sounds like they might be set too high for your weight. If they aren't, then going up to the highest setting might help make up for "soft" shocks. If you have a strap wrench you can use that to adjust them. Some folks have used a phillips screwdriver carefully inserted in the holes. Seems cagie had a good method that I've forgotten for the moment. Maybe he'll see this and post it.

**GGrider** · 03-30-2010, 10:14 AM

Thanks Flitecontrol~ Tank is good and have the inline filter just waiting to see how the SeaFoam does before installing. (I read on this forum to install after running a few tanks of SF) Would it be better to install right away?
Goin up into the 70's later this week here in Upstate NY! ride ride ride!

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