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07-13-2010, 10:59 PM
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#11
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Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Washington Township, MI
Posts: 8
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I will take you up on it if I don't find some soon. I have a few connections, so it might not be that hard. Thanks!
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07-13-2010, 11:02 PM
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#12
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Monroe, LA
Posts: 9,027
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I also use blue threadlocker on most of the bike's bolts. Helps keep them from vibrating loose.
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I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
2001 Rebel 250, 1989 Vulcan 750
Putting your bike info in your signature helps others help you!
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07-13-2010, 11:10 PM
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#13
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Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Washington Township, MI
Posts: 8
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I sell that at my work. Easy to grab some when I'm there. That is something that is still able to come off, right? I've never actually looked at it other than to stock the shelf. Thanks for all your info, it's very helpful.
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07-13-2010, 11:44 PM
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#14
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Monroe, LA
Posts: 9,027
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Yes, in most brands (loctite, etc.) the blue is low to medium strength and can be removed with tools. The red or yellow may require heat or an Act of God to remove. So look on the package and make sure what strength you're getting!
__________________
I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
2001 Rebel 250, 1989 Vulcan 750
Putting your bike info in your signature helps others help you!
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07-14-2010, 12:01 AM
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#15
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd7272
Actually, I work at an auto parts store and my boss also rides. He decided to lube the chain last week and was the one who did the spark plugs and I watched him gap 'em, so I know it was done properly. I did have a problem Sunday when I went for a ride. I was heading home and heard a clanking noise. The part the license plate is attached came of and was hanging on the back tire. Bent the plate in half and rubbed most of the sticker off as well. I ended finding out that the bolts came off while riding. I was able to stop at a store and pick up the proper bolts and washers. It stayed tight all the way home (about an hour drive). Sunday I learned I need to check bolts before I ride. Is there anything other than license plate and license plate holder bolts I should check?
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Another option is using wingnuts and springs on the license plate bolts. Run your bolts thru the plate and plate holder, then slide springs over the bolt threads, then snug up the wingnuts over the springs. The springs put tension on the wingnuts to prevent 'em from vibrating loose........You can probably find these on eBay or elsewhere......
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"Ridin' Ain't A Hobby, It's A Lifestyle"
1986 450 Rebel
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07-14-2010, 12:05 AM
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#16
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Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Washington Township, MI
Posts: 8
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The part the license plate is attached to has the springs and wingnuts. But that part is also attached to the frame. There is nuts that are welded to it and then it goes on with nuts to the frame. That's the part I am having troubles with. I was concerned that both would eventually rattle loose, but if the spring will work with the plates, I just have to be worried about the other part.
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07-14-2010, 12:29 AM
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#17
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd7272
The part the license plate is attached to has the springs and wingnuts. But that part is also attached to the frame. There is nuts that are welded to it and then it goes on with nuts to the frame. That's the part I am having troubles with. I was concerned that both would eventually rattle loose, but if the spring will work with the plates, I just have to be worried about the other part.
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O.K.......I think I'm following what you're saying. The plate itself, which you may want to take off whenever is already managed by the springs/wingnuts. But the bracket that the plate goes onto is causing the problem ? As long as the bracket doesn't need to come off to get the license plate off, then I'd just use Red Loctite on the bracket hardware.......
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"Ridin' Ain't A Hobby, It's A Lifestyle"
1986 450 Rebel
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07-14-2010, 12:32 AM
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#18
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Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Washington Township, MI
Posts: 8
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Are you sure there is no reason for this part to ever come off? If there isn't, I have no problems even welding that sucker on there (I have a friend who can easily do it for me). I just don't want any more hassles with that. If the plate will stay on with the wingnuts/springs, then I will leave that the way it is and check it every time I gas up, just in case.
Oh yeah, is there any other parts that would end up being rattled loose? I want to make sure I check all of that when I need to so I can avoid issues on the road.
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07-14-2010, 12:37 AM
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#19
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd7272
Are you sure there is no reason for this part to ever come off? If there isn't, I have no problems even welding that sucker on there (I have a friend who can easily do it for me). I just don't want any more hassles with that. If the plate will stay on with the wingnuts/springs, then I will leave that the way it is and check it every time I gas up, just in case.
Oh yeah, is there any other parts that would end up being rattled loose? I want to make sure I check all of that when I need to so I can avoid issues on the road.
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Good point, sd7272.......if that bracket ever got damaged and needed replacement, then you wouldn't want to have it Red Loctited on there.......little change-up here.....I'd recommend the Blue Loctite, LOL!...........I haven't owned a 250 for years, so others here can definitely suggest which other items should be checked more regularly for your pre-ride checks.......
__________________
"Ridin' Ain't A Hobby, It's A Lifestyle"
1986 450 Rebel
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07-14-2010, 01:14 PM
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#20
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 2,283
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I recommend you do all the service listed in the owners manual on pages 61 and 62. I do not recommend removing the steering head or swingarm unless you notice a problem, or just want to, and have the time. If you do, I recommend new bearings, lots of waterproof grease, and you will never need to do it again. The engine oil strainer screen can wait. You can check both front and rear brakes without removing the wheels. The front pads can easily be seen, and there is an indicator pointer on the outside of the pivot on the rear drum.
If you want a sissy bar, I definitely recommend the Hondaline copy that Jack has. I saved $50 bucks and got the cheap cheesy MC Enterprises one, and now regret it, but I'm stuck with it.
As for the license plate thing, that is one of the first mods I made to my bike. I relocated the plate to the left side of the bike, and replaced the stock tail light with an aftermarket one tucked up under the front fender, where all that crap used to be, for a much cleaner look. If you like the stock look, just use locktite or nyloc nuts to hold everything in place.
Here is a poor quality picture of what I did to my license plate and tail light. Jerry.
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