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Old 03-02-2009, 10:34 AM   #11
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If you are thinking about going bigger, then yes I would probably go with a thicker LEXAN, (4 - 4.5mm) if you can find it. and 1/8" x 1" for the horizontal brace. An idea would be to make two smaller brackets for the hand guards that could be removed (see attached quick sketch). If you are very (I mean very) careful, you could use a heat gun set on low to give the hand gaurds a slight bowl effect. Don't work the heat in one area too long or you will distort/blister the plastic.

SKMBT_C35209030210170.jpg

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Old 03-02-2009, 12:28 PM   #12
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That's very similar to what I had in mind, with removable hand guards for warmer weather. Wasn't aware I could mold the plastic; was thinking of adding vertical strips at the end of the horizontal extensions to give it some curve. However, I like the idea of bending it and eliminating the need for the verticals. Would a hair dryer produce enough heat to bend the plastic, or would I need to invest in a heat gun? What about placing the material in front of a small (about 10" square element) electric heater? Thinking about making a wooden form to mold it over so I can get them symetrical. Any thoughts or comments on these ideas??

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Old 03-02-2009, 12:58 PM   #13
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I have not done much with Lexan (polycarbonate), although I would suspect it is simular to plexi. I did find some information that might help us.
"Shaping: Heat.(Softens at about 290-340F or 143-171C)
Use a strip heater (or use a stove element with two heavy tiles to form a thin strip of heat, or your toaster). or heat torch,oven. remember hot plasics need careful hadling with heat proof gloves."

My thought, though it might be crazy, would be to take a SS bowl and lay a piece of Lex across the top with a weight in another SS bowl on top of that. Put it in the oven at 310° and see if the Lex will shape that way. If you watch it close enough or use a shallow bowl, it should bend just right, then you could cut it off center a bit.

Don't know if I will get a chance to in the next few days to try this, but if you do, post the results back here.
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Old 03-02-2009, 03:24 PM   #14
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Sounds like a plan. Not sure when I'll get to it, but I'm gonna look at my other bike and see what's possible regarding mounting locations. I lean towards Lexan because it is tougher than plexi and doesn't scratch as easily. It is more expensive though.
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Old 03-02-2009, 03:28 PM   #15
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I would stick with the Lexan as Plexi doesn't have the tensile strength and will shatter. You definitly don't want shattered shards flying in your face at 60mph (that would not be good...).
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Old 03-02-2009, 09:12 PM   #16
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cagie View Post
Try this set. Make sure when you print that you select "none" for scaling. Also measure after printing to make sure windshiled pattern is 16 x 21" and the brackets match the scale (1" - 1")
http://lonestargrafix.web.officelive...shield-ltr.pdf
http://lonestargrafix.web.officelive...ackets-ltr.pdf

still doesn't work, then I will mail you a set.
Thanks much.... had to rotate the brkt page 90 degree, W/shield done in 6 pages but finally got it all printed

Thanks again.

Len
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:38 PM   #17
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Thanks to Rob (BerkelUSA) we now have a CAD version. (right click and save as...)
http://lonestargrafix.web.officelive...HIELD_ONLY.dxf
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:42 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colddonkey View Post
Thanks much.... had to rotate the brkt page 90 degree, W/shield done in 6 pages but finally got it all printed
cool. 6 pages is right on, fit them together like a puzzle, tape em up and cut out. Should measure 16 x 21. Good luck and holler if you need any clarifications.
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Old 03-14-2009, 11:10 PM   #19
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Another one knocked out...

Finished another windshield today. This one has a different mounting system for those of you that might have been a little daunted by the other one's moutning bracket.

This one I used some 1 1/4" electrical conduit brackets that I formed into fork brackets. First I cut one in half and drilled a 1/4" hole at one end. I took antoher one and wrapped it aroung the fork to get an idea how big it needed to be and placed my cut one below it to measure where to cut and make a tang (img 1):

The tang fits into the hole of the first one whcih then becomes a completed fork clamp. I lined them with a little rubber to give a little grip. Cost, $1.60. (img 2)

this windshield has more options as to positioning and tilt depending on where you put the fork clamps and arrange the support bars. After it is all tightened up it is solid. Downside is that you can't remove it as easily as the other bracket, remove four bolts and remove.

IMGP3929.jpgIMGP3926.jpgIMGP3924.jpgIMGP3927.jpg
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Old 04-24-2009, 02:03 PM   #20
 
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Cagie, your windshield looks great. Maybe you can start selling them.

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