Honda Rebel 250 - Carb Removal - Classic - `85 -`87

BigJ · Aug 7, 2008

Before you start, follow the instruction in the link below to remove the seats and then the gas tank.

http://www.hondarebelforum.com/showthread.php?t=1425

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With the seats and tank removed you are ready to start the carb removal process.

First, if your bike has the chrome carb cover, you will need to remove it by removing the 2 phillips screw on the front of it. See below. (If not you may skip this step)

Next you will need to loosen the 10mm nuts on the idle and the throttle cables. See below.

Next remove the idle and throttle cable from the cable guide. See below.

Next you can lay the thrittle and idle cables along the fram to keep them out of the way. See below.

Next move around to the other side of the bike and remove the choke cable from the carb. See below.

Next loosen the phillips screw on the hose clamps on the front and rear of the carb. See below.

With these steps taken you can guide the carb out of the bike.

To reinstall the carb, reverse the steps.

Crackedpiston · Aug 29, 2012

Champion, I'm doin a twin carb now an scratchin the noggin, but this is a great help.
I think I can keep the two connected and be able to pull down as one unit...
Cheers heaps

)

mojorisn · Aug 29, 2012

You should be able to pull them as a unit and not separate them.

wjmrty · Aug 29, 2012

Yes you can remove both carbs together is tight but doable

Crackedpiston · Aug 30, 2012

Thanks guys, yeah it all came out as one unit - surprisingly easy with a little wd40...

I had a look at the step by step of carb disassembly - extremely helpful, but it seems my carbs are fairly dissimilar, even though they are the same brand... So now I wonder if the pull down process is the same - sorry but I'm still havin trouble getting images up...

Supasic · Mar 31, 2013

Choke is stuck...

I can't remove the brass piece under the spring. It is stuck in the carburetor. It looks like a piece of the rubber that secures the choke to the carburetor is stuck in there within. I don't want to give it a hard tug, any suggestions? :banghead:

mojorisn · Mar 31, 2013

Try some penetrating oil and let it soak over night.

Supasic · Apr 1, 2013

Thanks for the response Mojo. I did finally get the choke to detach, but it turns out the rubber threads broke off (the part that holds spring and brass piece)...s@&$!!! Does anyone know what the piece is called? I wouldn't know how to search for the piece to buy another one, and without it the choke will not stay attached to carburetor. I hope this makes sense.

Buickguy · Apr 1, 2013

Here's the parts drawing.
Part 18.

018 CAP, CABLE SEALING
16148-KB1-921 001 $12.98

DesertRebel · Apr 3, 2017

Hey BuickGuy, where do you retrieve all those great schematics?

Thanks.

Supasic · Apr 5, 2013

Thanks for the response. I was able to get it from Partzilla for $8.57+$1.75 shipping.

penciledinsoul · Aug 13, 2013

What about newer models that have a solid piece bolted to the engine instead of a hose? I am having trouble getting it back far enough to come off the bolts.

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maggimia56 · Aug 13, 2013

Getting that blasted carb out

Open air box, pull out air filter, fight that blasted seal and work that big tube into the air box. Push carb back towards air box enough to clear bolts. You did remove that darn bracket attached to the battery box, right? Turn the carb slowly towards the battery side of the bike. Slowly wiggle it out, ya, that is the way, easy, patience, a few choice bad words. . .and I can now remove mine in under 20 minutes. No, I do not have to explain why I got so good at that job.....:whistling:

penciledinsoul · Aug 13, 2013

Thanks so much mag! Yea I ran my tank empty (new bike, getting used to it) already have an in-line filter on so I don't have to do this again.

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penciledinsoul · Aug 14, 2013

Got it off, cleaned and back on. As far as I can tell I got it fixed, fairly certain the main jet was clogged because it would stall out at 45-55 and now it will go through 60 with no fuss.

Gunmetal · Oct 12, 2013

I would like to thank the OP for this thread. I just got the carb off of my bike with very little trouble.

Also props to maggimia56http://www.hondarebelforum.com/members/maggimia56-15195.html for the extra info pertinent to second gen Rebels.

maggimia56 · Oct 13, 2013

:lol2: so, did it take many choice words?

Gunmetal · Oct 14, 2013

It was actually pretty smooth. I had read the about pushing the rubber into the airbox so with just some wiggling it was out in under 5 minutes.

It helped having the correct tools handy.

BobbyBrown · Jan 28, 2014

This stuff needs little yellow arrows so folks like me, with no experience know which ones are being removed.

BobbyBrown · Jan 28, 2014

Big_J said:
Before you start, follow the instruction in the link below to remove the seats and then the gas tank.

Next you will need to loosen the 10mm nuts on the idle and the throttle cables. See below.

Next remove the idle and throttle cable from the cable guide. See below.

This seems to be the only step I can't quite figure out. It might be a dumb question, but where are the 10mm nuts on the idle and the throttle cables? I just don't wanna screw it up. And, in advance, I don't know the actual terms for the parts, just remember that everyone started somewhere.

Following the wire cables that surround the rounded part, it looks like somewhere between where the wires ends and the rubber tubes begin. I'm thinking it's the first nuts you'll encounter along that path. Will loosing those expose all that threading (or the screw-looking parts without a head in case that's wrong) shown in the second picture?

mojorisn · Jan 28, 2014

They are the nut on the cable adjustment.

ShenValleyFlyFish · Jan 28, 2014

They're the rascels at the very tip of the guy's finger. You loosten them so you can slide the cable shields out of the bracket. Then you twist the cable around so you can slide the barrel ends out of the throttle actuator or whatever that weird pulley like thingamajig-bob is called.

BobbyBrown · Jan 28, 2014

so loosing those bottom two nuts will allow the threaded portion to slide more out of the rubber tubs and all that noise above 'em, which gives you the slack you need to pop the ends outta the, cable guide, or the rounded part, right?

------10th post------
Now I'm a "cool newbie"

mojorisn · Jan 28, 2014

Loosening the nuts will allow the cable to be removed from the bracket that holds them stationary. Once they are free of the bracket you can twist the cable pulley to get enough slack to slide the barrel ends out of the pulley.

BobbyBrown · Jan 28, 2014

ah, okay, that's all I needed. God I love this site. It's more helpful than the entire rest of the Internet.

Maybe some day we could add those red circle to the already posted pictures to make it easier for everyone to see. Most of the time you can spot the parts, but it wouldn't hurt.

One last, slightly off topic question; I'm gonna remove the carburetor because I've encountered the notorious problem Honda rebels have; a gunked up carburetor. I'm gonna soak all the metal parts in the stuff folks recommended (don't remember the name right now) Judging from the strong cautionary warnings everyone gave me saying only soak up the metal parts, not the rubber parts, it sounds like pretty strong stuff. I'm guessing that the rubber parts aren't hard to clean; tooth brush and if necessary dish soap soaking will do the job I think. What should I put the liquid that'll clean the metal up in? Will a plastic tub do it? Or will it eat through that? Perhaps the sink?...

mojorisn · Jan 28, 2014

If you get the gallon bucket of ChemDip it has a parts basket inside and you just soak the parts in the bucket.

BobbyBrown · Jan 28, 2014

One more thing before I go to bed and try this myself. I remember reading somewhere that the directions are the same for the newer generation bikes (mines a 2002) except there's one extra thing. Now for the life of me I can't seem to find this again. Know the post I'm talking about or know the difference yourself?

Honda Rebel 250 - Carb Removal - Classic - `85 -`87

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