ASE-Tech

Is there a list of materials needed and instructions to build some forward controls out there anywhere?

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I know stuff, it just doesn't come out when I need it to.

93 Shadow 1100

cagie

depends on a few things; What you want to accomplish (Move forward, move up, etc), how much you are willing to spend, what tools you have available and your skill level. I'm sure we could throw some ideas your way.

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Comments contained in my posts are not intended to cause physical or psychological stress and are mearly my two cents worth, and in this economy, that's cheap!
87 CMX250C 'the Pygmy Pony'
87 CMX450C 'Black Lithium'

JunkyardDog

If you just want to move the pegs forward, at the stock height, it's easy. Just make 2 extension plates, (I used 2"x1/4" steel) with 4 holes in them, use the 2 holes in one end to bolt the plates to the stock footpeg location on the frame, and the 2 holes in the other end to bolt the stock footpegs to. I moved mine forward exactly 4". It worked fine for me. IMO, 4" is about as far as you can safely go without some additional bracing. The shifter is also easy, just use a longer rod. You can make it yourself if you have the tools, otherwise a machine shop can make it for you. Remember, it has reverse threads on the front end.

The rear brake is where you run into some issues. I rode around for a couple of weeks without a rear brake while I worked out exactly how I wanted to do it. It too turned out to be real simple, but I don't know exactly how to describe it. I used another shifter pedal and pivot from eBay for the brake pedal, mounted the pivot on my homemade extension bracket, and ran a rod back to the existing linkage. I did not use the stock brake pedal. If I could find my camera, I could post pictures of it, and if I had a scanner, I could post drawings. I'll see what I can come up with. Jerry.

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ASE-Tech

Cagie.. just lookin to move the pegs forward a bit as Jerry has described... simple, yet doesnt look thrown together. As far as skill level, I can cut, drill, tap... cant weld. Throw me a few ideas.. Just lookin to get the next thing going cuz if my mind goes idle I think of things that could get me in trouble.

Jerry, anything you can post would be great, as usual I am full of questions.

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I know stuff, it just doesn't come out when I need it to.

93 Shadow 1100

JunkyardDog

Here is a link to what another member did http://tinyurl.com/yhwb9mf

What I did is very similar, with a few differences. First, I finished mine much nicer, smoothed everything out, and painted it gloss black. Like I said, it looks stock. Also, I did not move my pegs as far forward, I only went 4". I used thicker (2"x1/4") steel to make my brackets out of. I don't have a cross brace from one side to the other, because with the shorter heavier brackets it didn't need one. But the concept is the same. Also, I used a second shifter pedal and pivot from eBay for a brake pedal, but the linkage is very similar. The shifter/pivot mounts on the extension bracket, and a rod runs from it back to the linkage that the stock brake pedal used to attach to, only higher up. I drilled a hole in the flat part, just below where the rod to the back wheel attaches, and used a home made pivot to attach the rod from the shifter pedal I used for a brake pedal to, so pushing on the shifter pedal pulls on the linkage that goes to the rear wheel, and applies the brake. The stock pedal is not used. Hope this helps. Jerry.

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ASE-Tech

Cool cool guys... Thanks alot and as soon as time permits I shall give it a shot with what I've seen. I have a few ideas of my own as well, but we'll see what happens.

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I know stuff, it just doesn't come out when I need it to.

93 Shadow 1100

JunkyardDog

The concept is smple. Making it look good is the hard part. Before I made my final brackets in a machine shop, I made some crappy looking ones with slotted holes so I could get the measurement just right. I decided on exactly 4" for me. You may need more or less depending on your height and how long your legs are. If you need to go more than 4", and/or if you use lighter steal than I did, you will probably need the cross brace, and it will need to be attached to the down tube somewhere for support. On the '96 up models, the downtube already has a threaded place where the reflectors go. On the older Rebels, you could use a U bolt on the downtube. Excessive stress on the bolts that hold the extension brackets to the frame could cause the bolts to break. Use high grade bolts, and I didn't use any LocTite on them, just split lock washers, the reason bring that if one should break, once the head broke off, and the loch washer fell off, the bold should be loose in the frame, and easy to get out. So far I have had no problems. I am using regular automotive grade 8.8 bolts. If these don't hold, I will switch to Titanium aircraft bolts, at about $10 apiece, but they won't break. Jerry.

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05mali

I was thinjing of going this route as they are clean looking and they also sell linkage kits
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVE...item2559803133

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JunkyardDog

Seems to me it would still require just as much fabrication, and includes parts you already have, such as the stock pegs and shifter. You would still have to measure and drill the holes. Plus it's expensive. You can get 2"x1/4" steel stock cheap at Home Depot or Lowes. I figure I have about $50 into mine total, including paint and the eBay shifter (which I used as a brake pedal), plus it looks stock, because it uses all the stock pegs and pedals. Jerry.

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eholmes

hey I am interested in forward controls also. Do you have any pictures of yours?
thanks Eddie 87/450

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