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Old 10-05-2009, 01:16 PM   #21
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tallahassee, Fla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadman View Post
Trust me when I say do not put a lot of torque on the valve cover bolts. Don't even think about using an air ratchet. My little 20 year old taiwan 1/4" drive air ratchet snapped one right off. They break off flush with the cam carrier where they screw in. Not hard to fix, but when you have broken something on your new bike you feel really bad.

7 (SEVEN) foot pounds?? What's that, like one pinkie, on your weak hand, pushing backwards???

Thanks for the great write-up. The local stealer just lost 600$ for the "first service".

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Old 10-05-2009, 02:44 PM   #22
 
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Location: Chandler, AZ
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Ok I've done about a zillion valve adjustments on over a hundred different bikes (not al of them mine), screw and locknut, shim over bucket, shim under bucket, even Ducati. The Rebel has the easiest type, screw and locknut. and it only has 4 valves total.

You dont need to line up any marks on the flywheel, to me that just causes confusion. All you have to do is make sure the valve you are adjusting is closed. With the cover off, turn the engine over with a socket, and you can watch the rocker arms go up and down. When they are up, on the screw and locknut end, the valve is closed. It will remain closed for several degrees of crankshaft revolution, then start to open again. Remember, check and adjust while it is closed. You should be able to feel a slight looseness in the rocker arm.

Do not try to get the valves as tight as possible, adjust them to the loose end of spec. And make sure you recheck the clearance after tightening the locknut. Sometimes it will change just a little. Jerry.

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Old 10-05-2009, 02:52 PM   #23
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Chandler, AZ
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Here is a link to an excellent article on adjusting the valves on a Ninja 250 (I used to have one, and used to belong to this forum). It goes into a lot of detail. The valves on a Rebel are a LOT easier to get to, and there are only 4, where the Ninja has 8, but the basic procedure is the same. Jerry. http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_is...t_procedure%3F
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Old 10-21-2009, 11:24 AM   #24
 
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Location: Elgin Texas
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Just to correct wrench size its a 9m not a 10 on valve nut and 14 socket on crank not 15 hope it helps someone.
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Old 10-21-2009, 12:05 PM   #25
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tallahassee, Fla
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Originally Posted by thetexasrebel View Post
Just to correct wrench size its a 9m not a 10 on valve nut and 14 socket on crank not 15 hope it helps someone.
That's what it was on my wife's 2009, too.
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Old 04-12-2010, 08:37 PM   #26
 
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Bellingham WA
Posts: 10
This is perfect! I am about to open my bike for the Rings to be replaced and the Valves need adjusting because there is a knocking/ticking noise that is Horrid!
My bike is a 1982 CM250C and he is in ok condition. I was wondering if any one had the manual that can be scanned and send me the info on the work for the rings?
I sure would like to bye one, but the rings were stretching my fixed income as it is. So if anyone wants to lend a helping hand, I would give Many thanks!
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Old 04-12-2010, 09:45 PM   #27
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aephilli View Post
7 (SEVEN) foot pounds?? What's that, like one pinkie, on your weak hand, pushing backwards???

Thanks for the great write-up. The local stealer just lost 600$ for the "first service".
The valve cover bolts are designed to "hit bottom" when they are tight enough to put just a little squeezing force onto the cover gasket. Tightening them any more will not make the cover any tighter on the gasket, it will just over load the already bottomed-out bolt and break it.

If you leak oil, just change the gasket, don't tighten the bolts.

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Old 04-12-2010, 09:50 PM   #28
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JunkyardDog View Post
Ok I've done about a zillion valve adjustments on over a hundred different bikes (not al of them mine), screw and locknut, shim over bucket, shim under bucket, even Ducati. The Rebel has the easiest type, screw and locknut. and it only has 4 valves total.

You dont need to line up any marks on the flywheel, to me that just causes confusion. All you have to do is make sure the valve you are adjusting is closed. With the cover off, turn the engine over with a socket, and you can watch the rocker arms go up and down. When they are up, on the screw and locknut end, the valve is closed. It will remain closed for several degrees of crankshaft revolution, then start to open again. Remember, check and adjust while it is closed. You should be able to feel a slight looseness in the rocker arm.

Do not try to get the valves as tight as possible, adjust them to the loose end of spec. And make sure you recheck the clearance after tightening the locknut. Sometimes it will change just a little. Jerry.
My scooter has an "eccentric" valve adjustment, with graduated lines drawn right on it. Simpliest ever! You just put the pistion on TDC........then loosen a little bolt on the eccentric, then rotate until there is no valve clearance, then move till the little pointer is two spaces over. tighten bolt and done! Only two valves too.


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Old 05-07-2010, 03:35 AM   #29
 
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Location: Chandler, AZ
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IMO, the guy in the video is doing it wrong. He is using a socket to tighten the locknuts. This will not work well, as is obvious from the video. You need to use a box end wrench on the locknuts, and another, very small wrench on the square head of the adjuster itself. That's why the head is square. You can buy wrenches that are designed to fit these, you can make one, or you can use a really small crescent wrench ( I have one about 3" long). That way, you can hold the adjuster in place while you tighten the locknut, drastically reducing the chance the adjustment will change when you tighten it. I have never used a torque wrench on valves. Just snug them up. They break easy, so don't overtighten them. Once you get a feel for tightening the locknuts, just like for the proper drag on a feeler gauge, you will not need a torque wrench. Jerry.
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Old 08-24-2010, 01:59 AM   #30
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thanks for all the great help but im not adjusting valves im trying to put the timing chain back on, but that one video might have gave me what i need

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