Changing oil for 1986 Honda Rebel 250 - Honda Rebel Forum
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post #1 of 82 Old 04-30-2009, 02:30 AM Thread Starter
 
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Changing oil for 1986 Honda Rebel 250

I would like to know how to change oil for 1986 Honda Rebel. Its not in use since 10 yrs. I am trying to fix it. Can anyone tell me, what are the basic things to check.

Any help is really appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Rakesh.

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post #2 of 82 Old 04-30-2009, 09:04 AM
 
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Changing oil is pretty straight forward;


What you need:
  • 17mm wrench
  • 2 qts non-additive 10w40 oil
  • catch pan
  • crush ring (drain washer part# 94109-1200)
  1. Run the engine long enough to get the oil warm. Do not run the engine too long as to get the exhaust or engine hot, the goal here is just long enough to make the oil flow easier. use caution to not get burned on the warm exhaust.
  2. Carefully loosen the oil drain plug under the engine. You should have a pan large enough to catch 2 qts of oil. Allow the oil to drain, sometimes it can take 15-20 minutes to run out of the engine completely.
  3. Clean and inspect the plug. Replace washer (some people reuse these washers several times, but for this purpose it is recommended to replace at each change).
  4. Using new oil, lube the threads of the plug. Carefully hand thread into crankcase making sure you are not cross threading. NOTE: use extreme caution when tightening the plug. Over tightening will cause damage to the threads and case as they are aluminum.
  5. Remove fill cap/dipstick from right crankcase cover. Using a funnel pour in 1.6 quarts. Replace fill cap.
  6. Start eninge and allow to warm up (5 minutes). Stop engine and let stand for a few minutes. Remove cap/dip stick and wipe off, place back in hole, but do not thread in. Stand bike up and remove dipstick and read level. OIl should reach the top of the crosshatched area (about 1/2"). Adjust if necessary.
  7. Clean dip stick, replace and thread in hand tight (Do not over tighten)
Dispose of used oil in a proper manner by taking to an auto parts store, garage, or other oil reclaimation center.

Comments contained in my posts are not intended to cause physical or psychological stress and are mearly my two cents worth, and in this economy, that's cheap!

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post #3 of 82 Old 04-30-2009, 09:06 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockszone View Post
Its not in use since 10 yrs. I am trying to fix it. Can anyone tell me, what are the basic things to check.
Rakesh,

What else are you trying to look at to fix? Are you after general information about Rebel Mainenance or something specific? If it is general maintenance questions I would recommend you get a Shop Manual (Honda sells them for about $28USD)

Comments contained in my posts are not intended to cause physical or psychological stress and are mearly my two cents worth, and in this economy, that's cheap!

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post #4 of 82 Old 04-30-2009, 09:08 AM
 
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The only thing I will add to this excellent How-To is to point out the drain plug is located on the bottom of the engine on the left side near the kick stand.

Also, if it's been sitting that long here are a few more things you may want to check:
Was the tank and carburetor drained? If not, do so. Cleaning the petcock and carb would be highly recommended along with fresh gas and a small amount of Sea Foam.
Check spark plugs.
Check chain.
Check air filter box. Make sure a critter hasn't made it "home" and that the element hasn't dried out.
Check battery.
Check tires. 10 years of sitting can have dry rotted them.

At least that is what I have found on my 86 that I have recently purchased that needs attending at according to the PO it only sat for a year.

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post #5 of 82 Old 04-30-2009, 09:21 AM
 
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Hey, can anyone reference the torque specs for the drain plug? I can't find it.

One other thing I would mention to "new mechanics":
Get yourself a decent torque wrench. There are a lot of them out there, but my recommendation is to get on that is good-high quality. Because so much of your bike is aluminum the importance of learning the feel of how tight certain bolts are on the bike is very important. Too tight can ruin your day by stripping threads. Too loose can ruin your day by having an important part fall off when you least want it to.

Comments contained in my posts are not intended to cause physical or psychological stress and are mearly my two cents worth, and in this economy, that's cheap!

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post #6 of 82 Old 04-30-2009, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by cagie View Post
Hey, can anyone reference the torque specs for the drain plug? I can't find it.
Clymer says 22-26 foot pounds. Also recommends turning engine over with kill switch on (so it won't start) several times while oil is draining to get as much oil out as possible.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!

2001 & 2004 Rebel 250, 2006 Ninja 250, 1989 Vulcan 750
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post #7 of 82 Old 04-30-2009, 04:15 PM
 
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Cagie you ever use synthetic oil? I was thinking about using Mobil 1 or AmsOil next change.

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post #8 of 82 Old 04-30-2009, 04:42 PM
 
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Honda manual says 22-29 ft-lb (30-40 Nm) for 85-87's.
You can use synthetic but keep in mind that on older bikes synthetic may leak through older seals a lot easier than dyno. And you want to make sure it doesn't have the "Energy Conserving" additives as this can cause clutch slippage. If you change your oil regularly though there is no evidence supporting synthetic being better than dyno for this particular engine (though I like synthetic and it sure doesn't hurt).

And the Shell Rotella synthetic is highly recommended with the VFR's (V4 engine) and is easily found at Walmarts for a good price. It's what I will be using on my bikes. I use the Mobil 1 for the cages and love it though so you can't go wrong there either.

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post #9 of 82 Old 04-30-2009, 05:30 PM
 
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Originally Posted by TJBLonghorn View Post
Cagie you ever use synthetic oil? I was thinking about using Mobil 1 or AmsOil next change.
Yes I have, but won't again in the REbel. Main reason is because the Rebel doesn't have an oil filter you need to change oil frequently. using synthetic is just a waste of money IMO.

I just stick with plain ol dino juice, nothing fancy...

Comments contained in my posts are not intended to cause physical or psychological stress and are mearly my two cents worth, and in this economy, that's cheap!

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post #10 of 82 Old 04-30-2009, 10:16 PM
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I go with synthetic because it is much more resistant to "shearing". My rule of thumb is to change synthetic at twice the interval of dino oil. Even then, it is generally in better shape (retains more lubrication ability)than dino oil at half the mileage. In my truck, I changed dino oil every 2,000 miles; with synthetic, every 4,000. Yes, this is more frequent than recommended, but changing oil more frequently extends engine life and beats rebuilding an engine!

Since synthetic runs about twice what dino does, the cost is about the same and I save the price of a filter (truck and other bike) and the time it takes to do a change.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!

2001 & 2004 Rebel 250, 2006 Ninja 250, 1989 Vulcan 750
Putting your bike year and model in your signature helps others help you!
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