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Old 03-23-2009, 01:19 PM   #1
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'05 Clutch Slipping

Hello,
I recently bought an '05 Rebel for my wife. It had only 1600 miles on it and now has around 1800 miles. The problem is that the clutch is slipping. I first thought that the previous owner had used the wrong type of motor oil when it was changed and this was causing the clutch to slip. But after I changed the oil to motorcycle oil, i do not see any difference. I am afraid that the clutch will have to be replaced. Does anyone have any information on how this is done? I realize that i can buy the manual but i was hoping that someone could share their knowledge and give me some guideance.

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Old 03-23-2009, 02:43 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by mike_merck View Post
Hello,
I recently bought an '05 Rebel for my wife. It had only 1600 miles on it and now has around 1800 miles. The problem is that the clutch is slipping. I first thought that the previous owner had used the wrong type of motor oil when it was changed and this was causing the clutch to slip. But after I changed the oil to motorcycle oil, i do not see any difference. I am afraid that the clutch will have to be replaced. Does anyone have any information on how this is done? I realize that i can buy the manual but i was hoping that someone could share their knowledge and give me some guideance.
The PO could have used the wrong oil. I did. You can use any oil of the proper grade, just stay away from energy conserving oils. It's their "slippery" additives that make them energy conserving and cause the clutch to slip. I changed to the proper oil (which didn't help), then washed the clutch plates with solvent in an attempt to remove the offending additives, and it still slipped. So as I write, I'm in the process of doing what you plan.

First, order a set of 6 friction discs (ebay, bikebandit, etc.), a right side cover gasket, and a replacement lock nut (usually optional, but only around $3 more). You can go to bikebandit.com and pull up images of the various parts and their nomenclature. Take note of how things come out so you can reassemble them in the proper order.

1. Put the bike on the side stand and drain the oil.
2. Remove the right hand exhaust system (Remove the nuts and lockwashers holding the exhaust pipe flanges to the cylinder head, slide the flange down, loosen the bolt on the clamp that connects the exhaust to the tube under the bike that connects both exhausts, remove the bolts holding the right muffler to the frame, pull the front part of the exhaust forward to clear the threaded studs and remove from engine and frame)
3. Loosen the locknut and adjusting nut and remove the clutch cable from the lever on the crankcase cover.
4. Remove the screws holding the right crankcase cover and remove the cover and gasket. When removing the gasket, be careful not to damage the gasket mating surfaces. I used gasket remover (spray) and a new one sided razor blade. May take several applications of gasket remover. I masked the transmission components when spraying that side.
5. There are some locating dowels that align the cover and its attachment surface. Don't lose them. No need to remove them if they are secure - mine were.
6. Remove the clutch lifter rod and retainer.
7. Using a criscross pattern, remove the clutch bolts securing the lifter plate.
8. Remove the lifter plate and clutch springs.
9. You will now see a skirted round nut with four grooves cut into it. It is threaded onto a shaft with a keyway cut into it. The skirt of the locknut has been driven into the keyway to keep the nut from turning. You will have to remove or lift the depressed section of the skirt. I had no luck lifting the skirt and drilled mine out. Seems everyone has had to do this. A Dremel tool or hand drill works well for this. Honda makes a special tool for the lock nut that costs around $30. I plan to use a 7/8" socket that I am cutting away all but what will project into the grooves on the nut. By this evening I should know if it works. Another forum member welded extensions on a socket. Just be sure all the offending portion of the locknut skirt is out of the way before trying to remove it.
10. Shift the bike into 5th gear. Have an assistant apply the rear brake. Compress the front brake and tie or bungee cord it down. Remove the locknut and lockwasher.
11. Remove the clutch center, friction discs and clutch plates as an assembly.
12. Toss the old friction discs and replace with new ones. Lightly sand both faces of the clutch plates to remove any glazing and wash with solvent to remove any grit/contaminants.
13. Reassemble in reverse order. The plate arrangement, from the back of the assembly to the front (side closest to the side cover), is clutch outer housing, splined washer, pressure plate. friction disc, clutch plate (repeat last two six times), judder spring, judder spring seat, clutch center, lockwasher, locknut.

I'm sure others will add anything I've left out! Good luck!

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Old 03-24-2009, 02:52 PM   #3
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Thanks flitecontrol and cagie,
This is exactly what I was hoping to find. I am going to go ahead and order the parts and complete this as quickly as possible. It is killing my wife knowing that she has a new toy that she can't ride.
Mike
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Old 04-07-2009, 11:16 PM   #4
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Hello guys, Thanks again for your help. I finally got the parts and wrench to install the clutch Saturday afternoon and it was easy, thanks to the great instructions and photos that you provided. My wife and I, along with another couple rode Sunday afternoon for about 175 miles without any problems. My wife (Dawn) is extremely happy with the bike.
Mike
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Old 04-07-2009, 11:31 PM   #5
 
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I read something elsewhere about soaking the clutch plates in oil for a day or so before assembly to prevent some sort of problem later. Is there anything to this?
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Old 04-17-2009, 11:50 PM   #6
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Sorry I missed this... Yes, presoaking the clutch friction plates in oil before installation is a must for wet clutches. Reason is that when assembled they are mashed together and you could get dry spots, which would not be good. Presoaking avoids this. Be sure to use regular non-additive oil.
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Old 04-29-2009, 10:52 AM   #7
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Do I need to go to honda for the special tool?
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Old 04-30-2009, 11:22 PM   #8
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Do I need to go to honda for the special tool?
Yes, or make one yourself. If I get off my duff and get mine made, it will be available for loan when I finish. Trouble is, when you have two bikes and one runs and the other doesn't, it's too easy to ride the one instead of fixing the other!
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Old 05-01-2009, 10:19 AM   #9
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I called Honda and they say the tool is discontinued but for a fee if bring it in they will take it off? Where can I get this tool??
thanks.
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Old 05-23-2009, 09:59 PM   #10
 
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Try Motionpro
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0015/

$9.20 plus shipping, I think

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