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03-21-2010, 07:11 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 14
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tune up???
Ok real newbie question. I an a decent mechanic with cars trucks etc but this is my first bike. So my question is what all "tune up" type work should be done . Bike has sat for 2 years so I figure its due. I got the oil changed...but didnt see an oil filer anywhere, don't know where the air filter is , and Im not sure what else needs done. Also I didnt see any type of fuel filter( put a generic one from harbor freight on) any tips on what else I should do. BTW bike runs great so Im not touching the carb yet.
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03-21-2010, 07:37 PM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: South Central PA
Posts: 4,527
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Probably be a good idea to get a manual. It will have all the periodic maintenance charts, torque specs and anything else you might want to know about the engine. You can get the Honda service manual from a dealer for about $36. Clymers is ok, but is lacking in some info and clear inllustration.
bikebandit.com has some good breakdown illustrations to help you locate stuff.
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Comments contained in my posts are not intended to cause physical or psychological stress and are mearly my two cents worth, and in this economy, that's cheap!
87 CMX250C 'the Pygmy Pony'
87 CMX450C 'Black Lithium'
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03-21-2010, 09:02 PM
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#3
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Monroe, LA
Posts: 9,022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AverageJoe
Ok real newbie question. I an a decent mechanic with cars trucks etc but this is my first bike. So my question is what all "tune up" type work should be done . Bike has sat for 2 years so I figure its due. I got the oil changed...but didnt see an oil filer anywhere, don't know where the air filter is , and Im not sure what else needs done. Also I didnt see any type of fuel filter( put a generic one from harbor freight on) any tips on what else I should do. BTW bike runs great so Im not touching the carb yet.
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There is no filter on the 250, and that is why I change the oil every 1,000 miles or so. No contact points like a car either. Check the plugs and see if they are the right color and correct gap. If you aren't getting a nice blue spark, might replace the wires or check the coils for the correct gap (some folks report a hotter spark with a shorter/narrower coil gap). When the tank is near empty, take a dental or mechanic's mirror and look inside the tank, especially toward the rear of the tank. That is where condensation tends to settle and create rust that can get to the carb and cause problems. I'd add about 1/3 can of Sea Foam initially to a full tank of gas; it removes moisture and helps clean the carb. A couple of ounces every third tank or so is a good preventative.
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I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
2001 Rebel 250, 1989 Vulcan 750
Putting your bike info in your signature helps others help you!
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03-22-2010, 03:40 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 2,283
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Get a manual of some kind. No such thing as a "tune up" on a Rebel. Inflate the tires to the proper pressure and check the tread, check the brake pads, change the plugs, change the oil, change the air filter, check, adjust and lube the chain, check the valve clearances, check and drain the "puke tube", lube all the cables, replace the brake fluid if it is dirty, Check the battery if you have a non MF type, actually just go ahead and replace it with a MF type, and if it sat for a while, you do need to remove and clean the carb. I bought my '04 with 4,000 miles on it, it ran great, but I cleaned the carb anyway, as I do with any used bike I buy, and it was filthy inside. I have been converted to Seafoam, even though I had to go on a diet to pay for it, which maybe wasn't such a bad idea anyway. Once the carb is thoroughly clean, about every 3 months, I will drain the gas out of it, remove the fuel line from the tank, fill the float bowl full of Seafoam, let soak for 24 hours, drain, put the fuel line back on, then use the rest of the $10 16 oz can in the next 2-3 tankfulls of gas. I do this with all 5 of my bikes. Something else I recommend, is keeping it hooked up to a Battery Tender when not being ridden. I finally broke down and bought 5 Battery Tender Jrs., and I'm glad I did. Now I know my batteries are not sitting there going dead, and having their life shortened. A good MF AGM battery is quite an investment, and I want mine to last as long as possible. Jerry.
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03-23-2010, 04:06 PM
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#5
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Monroe, LA
Posts: 9,022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JunkyardDog
Something else I recommend, is keeping it hooked up to a Battery Tender when not being ridden. I finally broke down and bought 5 Battery Tender Jrs., and I'm glad I did. Now I know my batteries are not sitting there going dead, and having their life shortened. A good MF AGM battery is quite an investment, and I want mine to last as long as possible. Jerry.
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While AGM batteries are more expensive initially, they last longer than wet cell batteries, have more CCA (cold cranking amps), require no monitoring of fluid levels, and won't spill acid over your frame or electronics. Over the life of the battery, AGM is actually cheaper than a standard wet cell. A good investment.
__________________
I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
2001 Rebel 250, 1989 Vulcan 750
Putting your bike info in your signature helps others help you!
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03-23-2010, 08:37 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,442
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Mine came with a Yuasa battery. When the time comes, I'm going to replace it with another. It's been very good to me so far.
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