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09-10-2010, 10:38 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ventura
Posts: 38
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New battery died in a week
Hi. I recently purchased a 2001 rebel with about 1100 miles on it. Ran good for about a week than the battery died. Jump started it and ran it but once I shut it off It didn't want to start again. I bought a brand new battery thinking it was just that. Ran good for about another week. Come to my surprise the battery was dead once again. I don't think it's the stator because while I had the bike running at a idle I disconnected the battery and it would stay running still. I'm thinking it's the voltage regulator maybe. My friend has a 1997 rebel so I switched out his for mine. I ran the bike for about a hour riding it around town. Ran purfect. Once I got home and shut the bike off It didn't want to start. Maybe It's not the regulator? Maybe it is but my battery is destroyed and I need a new one? Bad connection somewhere? Any help would be awesome. Thanks
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09-10-2010, 10:56 PM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Michigan, near Ann Arbor
Posts: 9,265
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First off, buy a volt-ohm meter or mutli meter.
Never check the charging system by removing the battery while it is running. That is a sure ticket to charging system destruction. I know, the oldtimers did it all the time in their '58 Plymouth but modern charging systems are different.
Another thing is that the Rebel has a seperate ignition system from the charging system so it will run even if the charging system is shot.
Charge up the nattery you have with a nice slow charge overnight. Running it dead may have shortened its life but you still might get a couple good years out of it.
With a fully charge battery in the bike the not running no load voltage should be 12.6 to 12.8. Start the bike and rev the engine to about 2500 rpm (you can guestimate this since the Reb has no tach) Check the voltage again. It should show about 13.6 volts or so. If that is the case, the charging system is good.
If the charge is insufficient then look to stator or regulator.
__________________
1987 CMX250C Rebel 2002 FSC600 SilverWing 1983 Yamaha Midnight Virago XV920MK
Put your bike's year and size in your signature.
It helps others help you.
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09-10-2010, 10:58 PM
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#3
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Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Michigan, near Ann Arbor
Posts: 9,265
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Welcome to the forum, by the way.
__________________
1987 CMX250C Rebel 2002 FSC600 SilverWing 1983 Yamaha Midnight Virago XV920MK
Put your bike's year and size in your signature.
It helps others help you.
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09-11-2010, 12:58 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ventura
Posts: 38
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Thank you for the reply! I just talked to my buddy and he will be bringing his multi meter tomorrow. I don't have access to a battery charger at this moment. What If I put a brand new battery. Will I still be able to find the problem with the voltage meter with the new battery? If it is in fact either the stator or regulator, is there a clear way to find out which one it is for sure? Thanks again for all your help
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09-11-2010, 02:56 AM
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#5
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Creston, Ohio
Posts: 3,196
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You can check if an alternator or regulator is bad with a multi meter (volt/ohm meter).
On the alternator coil...disconnect it from the regulator/rectifier and check for resistance (ohms) between all three yellow terminals. It should be 0.2-0.6 ohms. Also check each wire to ground/frame, there should be no reading. The ohm meter should say OP, as in open.
On the regulator/rectifier...disconnect the plug and find the red/white wire and measure to ground. It should read battery voltage.
The yellow and yellow should read 0.2-0.6 ohms.
The green wire should read zero or really close to it.
You gotta remember though that these things are plugged into a wire harness. Plugs can corrode and lose continuity, maybe even give you false readings. You may have to really rub the probes into the connections to get an accurate reading. Hopefully the problem is that simple.
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Some days beer tastes good...other days beer tastes better!
'07 Rebel 250 26,000 miles
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09-11-2010, 10:14 AM
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#6
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Monroe, LA
Posts: 9,027
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A good way to deal with, and prevent, corroded connections is to use plastic safe electrical contact cleaner followed by a small amount of dielectric grease.
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I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
2001 Rebel 250, 1989 Vulcan 750
Putting your bike info in your signature helps others help you!
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09-11-2010, 07:49 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ventura
Posts: 38
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Took my battery to the local shop to get it charged a bit. It turned up the battery wasn't good anymore so they gave me a brand new one. I'll be putting it on my bike in a bit as well as testing it with the volt meter.
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09-11-2010, 08:16 PM
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#8
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Creston, Ohio
Posts: 3,196
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When it comes to money, a Yausa battery is worth every penny. They last a long time and give less hassles. I think you know what I mean by that.
__________________
Some days beer tastes good...other days beer tastes better!
'07 Rebel 250 26,000 miles
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09-11-2010, 10:11 PM
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#9
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Monroe, LA
Posts: 9,027
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^X2!!!!!!!!!
__________________
I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
2001 Rebel 250, 1989 Vulcan 750
Putting your bike info in your signature helps others help you!
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09-12-2010, 12:24 AM
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#10
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Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Michigan, near Ann Arbor
Posts: 9,265
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Yep, Yuasa is a great battery. I'm going on six years with my current Yuasa.
Guba covered the charging system diagnostics well.
The charging voltage just gives an over picture of charging system health. The component diagnostics pinpoint any troubles.
Flitecontrol gave you a good tip on cleaning and preserving the plugs in your harness.
__________________
1987 CMX250C Rebel 2002 FSC600 SilverWing 1983 Yamaha Midnight Virago XV920MK
Put your bike's year and size in your signature.
It helps others help you.
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