SPACEMARSHALL

ok. ive had my 87 rebel bobber for a few weeks now and have i tuned up great and running quite nicely. so with everything doing what its supposed to. my mind is thinking about a comfort modification -- forward controls.

any one with experience or opinions on welding forward foot pegs and conrols onto rebel. please share

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JTRebelRider

Doing a search found these threads. Although they mainly bolt on their forward controls, not weld them on.

I'm thinking of adding forward controls to my Rebel, too.

Forward Controls


more on forward controls


Mapam forward controls

Jim

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2009 Honda Rebel CMX250C

Guba

Unless you have a welding certification, don't do any welding on the frame. Fatigue and a pit in the right place can ruin your day.

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Some days beer tastes good...other days beer tastes better!

'07 Rebel 250 26,000 miles

Fridgitator

I've kinda hinted a couple times that some of the ideas posted here about mods from hardware store parts might be dangerous. I particularly cringe when someone posts about footpegs and forward controls made from "Stuff I got for less than twenty bucks". There is some serious leverage involved.

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Guba

Most of the people putting forward controls on, mount them to existing foot peg mounting holes. Those are okay in my opinion. But the downtube part of the frame is pretty thin material. I can weld, but I don't think I weld good enough to even attempt to attach something to the frame where it's crucial to support of the bike as a whole. Failure of the frame from a pit that fatigues over time, a week, month, year or couple of years sounds like possible rash.

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Some days beer tastes good...other days beer tastes better!

'07 Rebel 250 26,000 miles

Henryinva

+1 Fridge!

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"Don't pick a fight with an old man. If he's too old to fight,
he'll just kill you!"

Rest easy Vic...5-15-58/10-28-2010

JunkyardDog

I made my footpeg relocation brackets out of 1/4" x 1 1/2" steel stock I got from Lowes. The longer shift rod was made from the stock shift rod, a short piece of 1/4" threaded rod, a 1/4" threaded rod connector, and a metric bolt with the same threads as the right hand threads on the stock rod, with the head cut off. The brake linkage was made out of a second Rebel shifter pedal and pivot assembly, a long piece of non threaded rod with reverse metric threads cut on one end, to attach to the shifter pedal, and a clevis bracket attached to the other end, which connected to the same place as the rear rod, with just a longer pin. I used all new high grade bolts. The whole thing was well thought out, and has worked perfectly so far. I figure I spent about $50 total on it. I painted the brackets black to match the frame, and it looks completely stock. No welding. Jerry.

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Fridgitator

The materials you used might be up to the task. Your design might also. As you said: "The whole thing was well thought out, and has worked perfectly so far." That's about as close as it gets to being absolutely positive that all the components are suitable for the application, and that the entire structure is engineered to withstand your body weight on the pegs at 60 MPH when you hit a pothole. I hope you continue to encourage all the beginners that visit this site to go to Lowe's, and modify their bikes like you did.

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