dented gas tank - Page 3

**flitecontrol** · 04-20-2010, 01:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rynomx

Flitecontrol, can you explain the dry ice method and how/why it works?

If I understand it correctly, the intense cold of the dry ice causes the metal in the dent to contract, while the surrounding metal remains relatively warm. As the metal in the dent tries to contract, it "pulls" itself out. I would think the warmer the tank is when you begin, the better/quicker the results. So putting the tank or bike in the sun first may help.

If you wear winter gloves and hold the dry ice with several sheets of newspaper between the dry ice and gloves, you might not need to remove the tank. But you don't want gas up to the level of the dents; it will absorb the cold away from the metal.

**Rynomx** · 04-20-2010, 02:59 AM

Have you done this yourself? I've seen the internet videos and I just don't believe it works.

**flitecontrol** · 04-20-2010, 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rynomx

Have you done this yourself? I've seen the internet videos and I just don't believe it works.

No, haven't done it myself, but thousands of hail damaged cars repaired with this method would be pretty substantial proof that it works. I haven't seen the videos, but if they demonstrate that it works, why would you disbelieve them?

**Rynomx** · 04-20-2010, 07:24 PM

It might work for small hailstone size dents, but anything larger I wouldn't believe. The dents in one of the 86 rebels tank that I'm restoring has dents the size of the turn signals and that's a lot of metal to move using that method.
Just because the internet and Youtube broadcast something doesn't mean its all true. There was one Youtube link that showed a lady unlocking her car using a tennis ball pushed against the key hole. Is that true? I'm not discounting the dry ice method entirely, it may work on small dents.

**flitecontrol** · 04-20-2010, 09:42 PM

You're right, it doesn't work; don't attempt it. Ignore what other members have posted about it. It will ruin your tank.

**Rynomx** · 04-20-2010, 10:10 PM

What's with the attitude??? I mention my opinion of how I have doubts about it working on ALL dents. I did say it may work on smaller dents. You're defending a method that you yourself have not tried. The members that you mentioned, no one in this thread has tried it either, you are the one that brought it up.

I don't want this thread to turn into something like the "MIG welding" thread, but your attitude in your reply was not expected, coming from a moderator.

**flitecontrol** · 04-20-2010, 11:23 PM

When I address your repeated skepticism as to why you don't think it will work with rationale to support why it does work, you respond with more skepticism. I've learned it's counter productive to get into an extended discussion with folks who have their mind made up. So, since what I have said, what you have seen on the internet, and what toocoolgliders related about seeing it work, hasn't changed your opinion/mindset, I'm agreeing with you. Please note that I wrote that if the dents were too deep it might not work. I didn't say it worked on all dents. I was relaying information I thought the original poster and possibly others might find useful.

Not meaning to be harsh here, but maybe you should go back and reread your posts.

**Fridgitator** · 04-20-2010, 11:42 PM

Considering that it only costs a couple bucks to get more dry ice than you would need, and it can't possibly damage the bike, that would be my first choice. Even if it does nothing at all, you can toss the leftover dry ice in your toilet to get a great video.

**Rynomx** · 04-20-2010, 11:48 PM

Please understand that I'm not looking for a fight. You and I agree that it may not work on large or deep dents. We both have not seen it work in person. No one in the thread has personally done it. TooCool has seen a method, but he did not say it was the dry ice method. I think it was, but not sure. My "repeated skepticism" is simply me saying that I don't believe it will work on large dents, which you support in your first post.
The method sounded interesting that is way I asked about it. Yes, I have doubts about large dents, but that's my opinion. When I state my opinion you attack me with sarcasm.

So I stand my ground that large dents can't be fixed this way, but I may be wrong. You can convince me by hitting your tank with a ball peen hammer and put a 2"x3"x1/2 " deep dent and fixing it with dry ice. That happens to be the size dent in my tank. Now before you get all bent out of shape, that last part was a joke. Are we OK here?

**twocoolgliders** · 04-21-2010, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rynomx

Please understand that I'm not looking for a fight. You and I agree that it may not work on large or deep dents. We both have not seen it work in person. No one in the thread has personally done it. TooCool has seen a method, but he did not say it was the dry ice method. I think it was, but not sure. My "repeated skepticism" is simply me saying that I don't believe it will work on large dents, which you support in your first post.
The method sounded interesting that is way I asked about it. Yes, I have doubts about large dents, but that's my opinion. When I state my opinion you attack me with sarcasm.

So I stand my ground that large dents can't be fixed this way, but I may be wrong. You can convince me by hitting your tank with a ball peen hammer and put a 2"x3"x1/2 " deep dent and fixing it with dry ice. That happens to be the size dent in my tank. Now before you get all bent out of shape, that last part was a joke. Are we OK here?

I never saw the dry ice method. What I saw was the paintless dent guy using MECHANICAL tools, spoon shaped things on long rods, with weird bends in them, to get into hard to reach places inside doors, and hoods and stuff. They literally worked out the dents from the inside with these set of weird tools. They also brought their own really big bright light so they could see the dents. They actually worked the dent from the inside out, and got the metal a little "proud" of the surface, then the "pushed it back to perfect level from the outside. The guy told me it takes a couple of years of practice to get good enough to do this professionally.

He also said there is a limit as to what kind of dents they can take out. The paint must not be cracked, and the dent cannot have "sharp edges".

When steel gets "dented" there are two possible "stages" of what happens to the steel. The first one is the "elastic" range. The dent actaully causes the steel to stretch, but if the stretch is not too much, in the "elastic" range, the dent can be straightened, and the steel will "unstretch" back to almost perfect original shape. If the dent has stretched the steel beyond the elastic range, into the "plastic" range, the steel is permanently deformed. The dent can be straightened, but will never go back to original because it has stretched.........there is actually more metal surface area, with no where to go!.

Unfortunately, with those gas tank dents, there is a lot going against you. The dents are usually fairly deep, with a sharp edge. This means the steel has been stretched beyond elastic into the plastic range. This means that most if not all of the "paintless" methods will not work or not work completly. That sharp edge is the problem......hard to get rid of even if most of the dent pops out.

A good body man still might be able to get some respectable results working inside and outside the tank at the same time....tapping and hammering. Usually they get it "pretty good, and then have to add some Bondo to get perfection. They might also have to remove the dented section by cutting it out and then weld in new metal........lots of work, and still may need bondo.

BTW ALUMINUM is even a worse metal to work with. It has a very little elastic range, so it really "stretches" when dented, and very difficult to get the dents out. In airplanes with aluminum skins we almost always repalace the whole panel. Trying to "hammer out" a dent in aluminum can cause weakness too.

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