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02-08-2010, 12:27 AM
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#21
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soul Searcher
My Rebel is also a 1999. My wife's Rebel is a 2000, C2. After working on the two Rebels, the only things that I have found different is the Side Covers. The C2 covers are deeper and they protrude futher out than the C. The "T"'s that have no hose connected to are standard OEM. When the hose was assemblied for the assembly line, there was no way to know if it was a 49 state or Ca. Rebel. One hose design for every Rebel. The desigination for CA. in Honda Parts Manual is refered to as AC, other 49 states is A.
Hopes this helps.
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Thanks soul searcher, that does help - mine definitly seems NOT to be a cali model.
Jerry, I need to hit hay ( early start in the morning ) but I want to comment on your reply in morning about maybe re routing the hose going into the intake some how, I understand recycling the vapors and maybe some liquid from the crankcase but I honestly wouldn't like to burn those substances back through the engine if at all possible. Maybe plug the hole going into the air filter or a little before, but again if the air flow moving from the the filter into the carb creates a vacuum to "help" pull these vapors and substances this may not be a option.
Anyone have ideas or comments please post!
Thanks! ~ Edward
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02-08-2010, 12:39 AM
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#22
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Summerfield,FL
Posts: 662
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With the increase in vehicle complexity and computerization, the description for a professional wrench, changed from mechanic to technician.
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02-08-2010, 01:13 AM
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#23
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 2,283
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Interesting thing about the side covers. I wonder what Honda's reason was for changing them AGAIN? Seems to me all constant changes do, especially when there is no good reason for them, is raise the price. I thought the original sidecovers from '85 were by far the nicest looking. But Honda spent the money to change them for some reason. Jerry.
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02-09-2010, 02:30 AM
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#24
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Creston, Ohio
Posts: 3,196
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[QUOTE= but I honestly wouldn't like to burn those substances back through the engine if at all possible. [/QUOTE]
If the engine is operating within fit clearances, we really aren't talking about very much "harmful substances". You actually have a greater chance for even more contamination just by filling up the tank with gasoline. Most people that want to get rid of the puke tube have had the bad experience of the type you had. They also didn't read the operators manual maintenance section. It's really not that hard to pull the plug on the puke tube during an oil change.
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Some days beer tastes good...other days beer tastes better!
'07 Rebel 250 26,000 miles
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02-09-2010, 10:04 AM
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#25
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Monroe, LA
Posts: 9,027
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I've put over 200,000 miles on several trucks with no engine problems and they burned those substances in their engines. Since it's minute amounts of mostly oil and water vapor, it's not going to have much effect, if any.
In fact, it might be slightly beneficial. Some diesel engines add water to the fuel, which explosively turns to steam upon ignition. The steam cleans the cylinder walls and valves, improving performance. Saw a picture of a gas engine head that had lost gasket integrity on one cylinder. That cylinder was shiny clean, the others were fouled.
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I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
2001 Rebel 250, 1989 Vulcan 750
Putting your bike info in your signature helps others help you!
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02-09-2010, 12:15 PM
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#26
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guba
If the engine is operating within fit clearances, we really aren't talking about very much "harmful substances". You actually have a greater chance for even more contamination just by filling up the tank with gasoline. Most people that want to get rid of the puke tube have had the bad experience of the type you had. They also didn't read the operators manual maintenance section. It's really not that hard to pull the plug on the puke tube during an oil change.
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Thanks for the reply, well two things I just want to clarify, I have no problem pulling the plug whenever necessary and I don’t want to remove the puke tube, I did think about removing everything and just adding a vent but I don’t want to risk any blow by. I honestly was pondering maybe just not having the tube running past the “box” where the puke tube runs down - the one running into the air box. But at the same time I understand the vacuum of the air box at least helps pull these "harmful" things out of the crankcase into the puke tube.
It just startled me to see how much fluid (different kinds at that..) was in the tube, backed up to the point of running into my air filter. I will just pull the plug every two weeks and see what that yields, its rather cold right now and 8 out of the 12 months its extremely humid so I definitely see how this system could benefit me.
I just only wish the previous owner took better care of the bike, but shes on her way, (well honestly there) to a full and healthy recovery
And to flitecontrol I see your point clearly, there was a reason for Honda installing this system on the bike - One thing though, on diesels isn't there a water separator, to remove water from the gas? on my old truck I always had to empty the container that did such separation, I knew some got by but most of it ended up there, same way with diesel engines on larger boats.
Well thanks everyone for the comments, I really do appreciate them - I'm just going to keep everything clean and closely watch this area.
Have a good one! ~ Edward
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02-09-2010, 12:56 PM
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#27
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Monroe, LA
Posts: 9,027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by labeledbass
Thanks for the reply, well two things I just want to clarify, I have no problem pulling the plug whenever necessary and I don’t want to remove the puke tube, I did think about removing everything and just adding a vent but I don’t want to risk any blow by. I honestly was pondering maybe just not having the tube running past the “box” where the puke tube runs down - the one running into the air box. But at the same time I understand the vacuum of the air box at least helps pull these "harmful" things out of the crankcase into the puke tube.
It just startled me to see how much fluid (different kinds at that..) was in the tube, backed up to the point of running into my air filter. I will just pull the plug every two weeks and see what that yields, its rather cold right now and 8 out of the 12 months its extremely humid so I definitely see how this system could benefit me.
I doubt the puke tube had ever been pulled before you did it. Draining it every time you chane the oil will be more than often enough to keep it from overflowing, unless something else is drastically wrong. That way, you can drain it into the used oil container and take it to the recycler (Wal Mart, AutoZone, etc., etc.) for proper disposal. If you live in a more humid location than I do, it's gotta be BAD!
I just only wish the previous owner took better care of the bike, but shes on her way, (well honestly there) to a full and healthy recovery
The really nice thing about the Rebel is it can take less than TLC and still last a long, long time. I don't remember how many miles were on yours when you got it, but if you aren't burning oil, you should have no problems. Just remember to change the oil regularly because there is no filter on the engine and do the other routine maintenance.
And to flitecontrol I see your point clearly, there was a reason for Honda installing this system on the bike - One thing though, on diesels isn't there a water separator, to remove water from the gas? on my old truck I always had to empty the container that did such separation, I knew some got by but most of it ended up there, same way with diesel engines on larger boats.
Yes, water in the fuel, or al least too much, will cause all kinds of problems. I'm not a diesel mechanic, and I just came across the water injection information while researching another issue. Apparently, only certain engines have it. I suppose it acts as some sort of "steam cleaner" every time the cylinder fires.
Well thanks everyone for the comments, I really do appreciate them - I'm just going to keep everything clean and closely watch this area.
Have a good one! ~ Edward
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I think your baby has fallen into good hands!
__________________
I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
2001 Rebel 250, 1989 Vulcan 750
Putting your bike info in your signature helps others help you!
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02-09-2010, 05:53 PM
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#28
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 89
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Thanks flitecontrol, you better believe shes in good hands now
I'm not sure where you live but I'm in Savannah, GA - one of the most humid areas in the states, the armpit of the south  .... so I will indeed check this frequently, and I did dump it into my little drain pan with my used oil, then into a gallon jug to take up to autozone on my next oil change.
And yes, Hondas in general can take a beating & I've always wanted this bike for a starter just for that reason, so far I've put about 400 miles on it. The odometer read 7350 when I got it, 11 years old, 7350 miles, it sat.. somewhere and also unfortunately in the elements since there's evidence of sun fading and minute rust spots, pitting ect. but mechanically its sound, needs a new chain but that's it at the moment. I can't tell if its burning oil, no smoke and the plugs are good.
So far I've done this since purchase -
New plugs and 2 spare
New Air Filter
Oil Change
Valve Adjustment, lash .004
2 carb treatments with Seafoam
Removed carb, disassembled, cleaned, soaked
Treated gas with 4 tanks worth of Seafoam
Installed inline gas filter
Cleaned and Lubed chain
Adjusted handle bars, windshield and both levers for my fit
Adjusted spokes evenly
Checked all mechanical links
Filled tires properly, check every fill up at the station
Things I still need to do, and some wants, in order of importance -
Mechanical -
New Chain, O-Ring with masterlink
Check electrical system, everything is working but I have yet to do a voltage drop on the battery and stator (assuming there isn't an alternator)
Possibly rebuild the front shocks, seem a little "mushy"
Check rear Drum wear
Buy Cover
Cosmetic -
Replace any rusted parts that can't be cleaned or polished
Repaint entire bike, this I can do my self at minimal cost
Medium Saddle bags, (Right now I hike it with my back pack, and don't think that's very safe IMHO
Floor Boards, Heal-Toe system
Possibly a Crash Bar or Cage
& hopefully someone will give me a ride bell in the near future
I'm sure I left some things out, but its become a new hobby of mine, I've always loved cars, anything mechanical, electrical ect. so I work & maintain it whenever possible.
Most of the cosmetic things are only within budget, I'm not going to spend a whole lot of money on it. It would defeat the purpose of buying this particular bike. This is my 1st motorcycle and I love it, in the future I want to buy a larger bike that would carry me a little more safely on the highway/passenger than the rebel but in no way shape of form am I ever selling it!  One day I hope to get my girlfriend into riding
Again thanks for your post! Everyone have a safe one, you'll be seeing me around!
~ Edward
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02-09-2010, 06:09 PM
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#29
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Fruita Colo
Posts: 407
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The water injection is to help cool the incoming air which has become very hot after going through the turbo. The water is mixed with Methanol (a fule) to offset the air that has been displaced by the water. At least thats how it was explained to me so I dont know for sure.
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02-09-2010, 07:51 PM
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#30
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by labeledbass
& hopefully someone will give me a ride bell in the near future
~ Edward
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There is a thread to arrange swaps of ride bells here-
http://www.hondarebelforum.com/showt...ellsi-624.html
The guy from Mexico was asking about ride bells last night. I forget his name, but he's here pretty often.
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