Twister

I'm sure this question has been asked before, that's why I'm posting in the FAQ's section.

Looking at Dunlop D404 sizes 140-90-16 on the rear and 100-90-18 on the front.

From what I've searched on the forum, the front one will fit without bracketing the fender. My question is if the rear will fit in the fender without removing anything like the chain guard or trimming bolts/nuts inside the fender.

The reason I want to fit larger tires is to increase the patch area increasing traction. I am well aware that it will also increase friction/weight, hurt my mpg, top speed etc., but I don't need to go 90 mph. And I can probably "adjust" a bit by playing with sprockets. I'm currently running 15/33 and have my original 14 stored somewhere.

The other reason I'm planning to go this route is to have a more accurate reading on the speedo. Anyone running a 100-90-18 on the front has ever compared the speedo reading accuracy with a GPS?

I'm also interested in hearing your input regarding tubes. I believe they are also very important, since they actually hold the air.

Any one has seen/tried this stuff? www.ride-on.com great reviews on youtube. They say it also works (not as efectively) on tube tires. Click on the video on the bottom left of their home page. Amazing stuff for the tubeless tires.

Anybody has read this article? http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tec...eal/index.html
http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tec...eal/index.html


It's a shame they don't do it since EPA (here we go again wiht EPA) shut them down due to the chemicals they were using. Apparently they are working on a new formula approved by EPA.

Looks like Woodys Wheel works still does it for 70 bucks a pop.
http://www.woodyswheelworks.com/moto_wheels.shtml

Wouldn't it be nice to run tubeless on a rebel? and only carry plugs and a small pump instead of an entire shop?

If my pockets were a lot deeper I wouldn't stop at tubeless tires but I would probably also try rhynotire


But for right now I can barly aford a normal setup.

Again I appreciate your input.

__________________
Every ride is a joyride on a Rebel

1986 CMX250C "Miss Triplehorn" 17K miles
1984 GL1200A 106K miles

Buickguy

450 Rebel? The Dunlop is a good tire and you'll be happy with it.
The 250 has a 15 inch rear rim.

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1987 CMX250C Rebel

2002 FSC600 SilverWing

1983 Yamaha Midnight Virago XV920MK

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DeeG

I stuck the taller tire on the front of my Rebel. The speedo is pretty much accurate now. Seems to handle a lot better as well. The tire does rub a bit on the fender, but after a few miles, its no longer an issue. One of these days I'm gong to fabricate something to lift that fender up 1/4", but I'm not really in a hurry to get it done.

I did the tires on the spouses Rebel two weeks ago. Wasn't paying attention at the time, but seems he bought the larger tire for the back as well. Fills up the empty space under the fender and he says it rides a LOT nicer.

Thought I took some pics of it, but I can't seem to find them anywhere.

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JunkyardDog

I also have the 100/90 D404 on the front. I seem to have the only one that doesn't rub. I do have the stock 130/90-15 on the rear, and recommend it. Someone here has a 150/90 on the rear with the stock chain guard, and claims it fits. I have a Vulcan 750 with a 150/90-15 (stock) on it, I measured it (it's a Metzler ME880) and it wouldn't even come close to fitting. It would barely fit on the right, but the chain would have to be moved about a 1/4" to the left to make it fit, and that is without the chain guard.

Not all tires with the same numbers are the same size. The numbers are just a guideline. One manufacturers 150/90 might be 1/2" wider than someone else's 150/90


Flat out, the EPA sucks big time, I hate it 10 times more than the IRS, and over the years, it has probably cost me about as much money. Death to the EPA.

Don't bother with Ride-On in a tube type tire, it won't work. I have tried several different types of sealants in tube type tires over the years, and none of them work, for the same reason. When a tubeless tire gets punctured, 90+% of the time it doesn't just make a little hole like it does in a tubeless tire, the tube will pop like a balloon, ripping a very large hole in it. And if it doesn't happen as soon as it is punctured, whatever punctured will wiggle around and cut the tube to shreds by the time you can get stopped.



Tube type tires are stone age technology, and IMO have no place on modern motorcycles, and haven't since the early '80s. I just have to laugh when I see a new bike with liquid cooling, and expensive and trouble prone electronic fuel injection, and tube type tires. As was said, the Rebel 450 is proof positive that you can run tubeless tires on spoke wheels.

On my Vulcan 750, I carry a pump and some plugs. Thats it for tire repair. On the Rebel, I have to carry 2 extra tubes, tire irons, tire mounting lube, tools to remove and replace the wheels, a homemade stand to support the bike while the wheel is off, and a pump. What a hassle. But at least it works on the Rebel because of it's small size. Trying to support a 1500 with tube type tires would probably be impossible out on the road. And have you noticed that none of these bikes with tube type tires comes with a centerstand? Sad situation indeed.


But as far as tires go, the D404s are good tires for being tube type.


And flats do happen. I average about 2 per year, on the street, and have been riding on the street for 35 years. That's between 60 and 70 flats.Ride very long, and you WILL have a flat. Jerry.

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Twister

Ooops! You're absolutely right, I meant 15" rear (250)

__________________
Every ride is a joyride on a Rebel

1986 CMX250C "Miss Triplehorn" 17K miles
1984 GL1200A 106K miles

Twister

DeeG: If you can find and post the pics I'll appreciate it so much.

__________________
Every ride is a joyride on a Rebel

1986 CMX250C "Miss Triplehorn" 17K miles
1984 GL1200A 106K miles

Guba

I just want to point out that a bigger tire up front actually makes the axle spin slower, so the speedometer will read slower speeds.

Now if you installed a speedometer made for a bicycle you would be able to calibrate it. But you would also need to balance the tire. The speedometer I'm talking about uses a small magnet and sensor. And very accurate! It really impressed me.

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Some days beer tastes good...other days beer tastes better!

'07 Rebel 250 26,000 miles

Twister

It makes sense, a larger tire will have a larger circumference, therefore will cover more distance with each turn. It will spin less times in comparison to a samaller tire. You are absolutely correct. I remember reading in the forum someone who got more accurate with a larger one up front, but it's probably not "accurate"

Great idea on the bicycle speedo. I installed a cateye brand on my lambretta when I was 12. I was also into mountain bicycles DHing. You are correct, they are very accurate, and you can set them at whatever tire diameter you want (the lambretta has wheel barrow size tires) It's light, easy to read, waterproof, will give you odo, trip, max speed on this trip, max speed ever, average speed, and a bunch of other stuff that I don't remember. Thanks Guba, you've opened my eyes! I'm gonna start shoping around for one of those. I'll check the web but there are also a ton of bicycle shops around here. Anyone has one of those installed on their Rebel?

__________________
Every ride is a joyride on a Rebel

1986 CMX250C "Miss Triplehorn" 17K miles
1984 GL1200A 106K miles

JunkyardDog

I don't need an accurate speedometer if I know how far off it is, which I checked with GPS. I have also use bicycle computers, but instead of trying to calibrate them according to tire size, I use GPS for that too. As far as I know, GPS is the most accurate way to measure speed. Jerry.

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Guba

I've got a Cateye, but it's not on my Reb. But it's something that I've thought about. Twister, if you experiment I'd like to hear the results.

__________________
Some days beer tastes good...other days beer tastes better!

'07 Rebel 250 26,000 miles