jerry.osborne@gmail.com

How do I know the brake fluid is full enough? The bubble is a little less than half full?

If anyone wants to sell a 2002 Rebel 250 owners manual, let me know. jdoz@hotmail.com.

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Twister

Jerry: It is just a tad low. (Make sure you check it with the reservoir flat) But if it was MY bike I would purge/ replace the brake fluid, SPECIALLY if I didn't knew when was the last time it was bled/replaced. I personally like to replace it in my vehicles at least every 2 years, but that's just me. I notice that keeping the brake fluid nice and clear makes caliper pistons, seals and dust boots working forever(almost). Remember you do NOT have the same stoping power with your rear brake. Your main brake on the rebel is the front.

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Every ride is a joyride on a Rebel

1986 CMX250C "Miss Triplehorn" 17K miles
1984 GL1200A 106K miles

Guba

Before you add any brake fluid, check the thickness of the pads. Original pad thickness is 4mm or 0.16". Service limit is 3.5mm or 0.14". If it's less, replace.

As for a manual, Your '02 is essentially the same as all the '01's to '09's. So don't limit your search based on the one year.

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Some days beer tastes good...other days beer tastes better!

'07 Rebel 250 26,000 miles

cagie

you can also do a visual check on the pads. There should be a wear groove in the middle of the pad, if you can't see it, then it's definitely time to replace the pads.

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Comments contained in my posts are not intended to cause physical or psychological stress and are mearly my two cents worth, and in this economy, that's cheap!
87 CMX250C 'the Pygmy Pony'
87 CMX450C 'Black Lithium'

twocoolgliders

If you put in new fluid, and fill it to the top (mark inside reservoir) then you MUST install new brake pads too.

New pads = fluid to high mark
Worn out pads = fluid to low mark

New pads and fluid low = leak in system

It is a "closed system"

If you fill the reservoir to the top, with worn or semi worn pads, then the next time you install new pads, the fluid level will be too high/overflow, make a mess etc.

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Fridgitator

Don't forget that brake fluid will damage your paint. Be sure to cover painted areas before opening the reservoir. Brake fluid has a way of jumping.

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fastpakr

While true, I disagree with not filling it now. Go ahead and top it off - there's no reason not to have a full master cylinder. Any time you compress the caliper pistons back in the bore you should take precautions to avoid a spill. Proper planning will prevent damage. Always keep the master full.

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'99 Vulcan 500 - current DD, 27k miles and counting
'83 Honda Silverwing GL650i - future DD, still in pieces

twocoolgliders

Ok, yeah, you COULD do it that way........(If looking at "less than full" brake fluid really bugs you that much).....but you are making unnecessary work for yourself............The reservoir is SUPPOSED to go lower as the pads wear..............there is no danger ..............as long as the level is above the low mark.........then when you put on new pads, the level will go back up to full, and you don't have to even open up the reservoir!

yeah, I know that the MFGR says to change the fluid evey two years or something.......


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JunkyardDog

The only thing about a low fluid level in the master cylinder is that with the handlebars turned just right, the fluid could drop low enough to allow air into the system, and you will suddenly find yourself with no brakes. Yes, there is air in the master cylinder, between the top of the fluid level and the top of the master cylinder. It is impossible to overfill a master cylinder unless it overflows when you put the top back on. You might want to put plenty of heavy rags under the master cylinder to make sure it doesn't get on the paint.

If you fill the master cylinder full, with partially worn pads, you will have to remove some when you replace the pads, but you do not have to "siphon" it out. You loosen the bleeder screw on the caliper, preferably with a small piece of hose slipped over it, and use the brake lever to pump it out. Then remove the caliper, replace the pads, put the caliper back, stick the other end of the hose into a clear container half full of new brake fluid. Make sure the end of the hose that is not connected to the bleeder screw is submerged in the brake fluid, and stays that way.


Now, pump the brake lever with the cover off, and keep pouring fluid in the master cylinder at the same time till you quit seeing bubbles coming out the end of the hose, and with the level in the master cylinder above the halfway point, tighten the bleeder screw. now go ahead and fill up the master cylinder, but leave room for that rubber cup thing that goes in it, otherwise fluid will spill out when you put it in. Then put the cover back on, and tighten the screws. Pump the lever a couple of times, and you should have a nice hard lever that will barely move before applying the brakes. It it moves much at all, or feels spongey, you have air still trapped in the system, and will have to bleed the brakes again.

Note that while brakes may work to a certain degree with air in the line, you may have to squeeze the lever almost all the way to the handlebar to stop the bike, leavig you no margin for error. A little pad wear, and you will have no brakes at all. The lever should just barely move a hair when you squeeze on it. Hydraulic motorcycle brakes should not have nearly the free play what many car brakes have.


And, despite what I read on another motorcycle forum, brakes should require some force to brake really hard. They should not be grabby, or prone to lockup just from barely touching the lever. It should take a substantial amount of force to lock the front wheel, but it should be possible.

My Vulcan 750 came with dual front discs, despite the fact that many much larger bikes have single front brakes, and in my opinion, it was overbraked in the front. barely touching the lever would cause the front brakes to grab and lock the front wheel. While this could be lived with, it is far from ideal, and makes the front brake very difficult to modulate in a panic stop. My answer was to remove the right caliper and disc, and run a single line to the left disc. This dramatically improved braking control, and it was still possible to lock the front wheel at will. No problems were found with this setup in over 20,000 miles of use. The Vulcan front brake now feels just like the front brake on my Rebel, Ninja 500, and XT225. I can howl the front tire easily, but not TOO easily, like it was before.

I usually just change my fluid when I change the pads. Jerry.

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twocoolgliders

OK..........that all makes sense....but..... a lot of work.........

As my pads got thin, the fluid level went down........I replaced the pads and the fluid level went to full........done!


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