How touchy are these things? I replaced the one on my '86 250 with a 2004 model. It looks exactly the same and has exactly the same specs written on it so I assumed it was exactly the same. Although, when I hooked it up, it had exactly the same problem. The lights just stay on. Then, if I bang it slightly against the frame it will make the sound like its working but wont keep blinking. Am I missing something, or did I just get another fried one?
Same as most cars and trucks you see on the road that are turning, only to see the turn signal stay on bright. Most always is a burned out bulb on the side that is not flashing. Most standard flashers work on the resistance method. Usually a bi-metal strip that completes the circuit to ground. The bi-metal strip is usually two layers of metal bonded together, they can be steel and copper, or two other metals that expand at different rates when voltage is applied and they heat up. I.E. copper expands faster than steel, but when they are bonded together, it will bend the metal. When you apply voltage to the strip, one metal heats up faster than the other, causing the strip to bend and make contact with the other part of the circuit, completing the circuit. A bi-metal strip that bends with increasing resistance (or heat, in this instance). If there is not enough resistance, the metal strip will not get hot enough to bend and start the flashing cycle.
All flashers are designed to work within a window of 'heat' or load (number of bulbs).
Since you do not have the original number of turn signal bulbs to 'heat up' the flasher, the bi-metal strip does not get hot enough to bend, therefore not making contact to 'flash' the bulbs and they just stay on and do not flash.
This heating and cooling of the bi-metal strip occurs very rapidly, heating up (bending the strip) and cooling (unbending the strip) that makes contact and releases contact of the circuit.
This heating and cooling action of the strip is actually the bending and unbending of the strip that actually makes the 'clicking' noise we all hear with the flasher.
That is why when you convert to LED lights, there is not enough resistance to heat up the strip to make it bend and make contact to flash the lights. This is why a module or electronic controller is needed to make the flasher work correctly or you have to use a solid state controller to flash LEDs.
If this sounds confusing, PM me and I will try my best to explain in more simple terms how this works.
__________________ Loud pipes save lives...Nah, they just sound cool.
Makes a lot of sense. Thank you very much for the info. The bike was stripped and had no lights when I bought it so I'm learning as I go. Been a fun challenge. Got some front lights on order and I'm gonna do it the right way. Better to stay street legal anyway.
ok im having this same trouble, i have no front turn signals just back. when i click the right it just stays on and when i click the left the right will come on. If i take off the relay, nothing works????
You need all four signals hooked up for the factory relay to work right. If you're using aftermarket signals that are LED or lower wattage bulbs the signals won't function properly either. You will need to replace the factory thermomechanical relay with an electronic or electromechanical relay to get them to work right. And if you're using LEDs on all four signals you will need to hook up a couple of diodes to the front signals for them to operate right or use a 3 prong electromechanical relay and run the third prong to the signal indicator on the dash.
1985 Rebel 250 Adding your bikes year and size in your signature helps others help you.