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08-30-2010, 03:59 AM
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#1
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 11
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stripped internal threads in my '86 450 engine case!
I've found the source of my leaking head gasket (which is now entirely blown) and it seems really strange to me. Turns out one of my cylinder head bolts was not even screwed into the internal thread of the engine case. Let me try to explain.
One of the eight really long cylinder head bolts was not torqued to spec, which was causing a compression leak at the head gasket and an oil leak at the base gasket. But only on that specific side of the engine, because all the other seven cylinder head bolts were nice and tight. I have no idea how it happened, but the thread in the aluminum engine case where the cylinder bolt actually bolts into has been stripped completely. So that one cylinder bolt cannot be tightened at all and just spins freely in the engine.
Now the real question is, how can I possibly rethread the aluminum in my engine case so I can properly tighten the cylinder head bolt and fix the head gasket/base gasket leak? I really don't want to have to find/buy a new engine transmission case just because of this one bolt.
Any suggestions/ideas would be of great value right now. I've got a gaping hole in my head gasket on that piston side and I can no longer ride. Please help!
P.S. I posted a few months ago about losing my keys and never updated. Sorry about that. I ended up pulling the ignition module and found the key code stamped behind it. Took the code to my local Honda dealership and they made me 3 keys for 20 bucks!
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08-30-2010, 08:38 AM
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#2
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: venice, fl.
Posts: 626
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You could try a Heli-coil kit and some loc-tite. Depending how bad it is, it may hol till you find a block.
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08-30-2010, 10:07 AM
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#3
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Monroe, LA
Posts: 9,027
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Agree with shadetree. A machine shop should be able to fix it good as new, but not sure what it would cost. Or, you could just donate it to a good cause, like ME!
__________________
I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
2001 Rebel 250, 1989 Vulcan 750
Putting your bike info in your signature helps others help you!
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08-30-2010, 11:30 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 11
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Would I have to tap out a larger size thread for the heli-coil first before installing? And how would I go about finding out the correct thread pitch for the internal thread?
Also, where can I find a metric heli-coil kit? I apologize for all the questions, but I'm pretty new to shade tree mechanics. Thanks in advance!
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08-30-2010, 12:22 PM
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#5
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: South Central PA
Posts: 4,529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirChauncey III
Would I have to tap out a larger size thread for the heli-coil first before installing? And how would I go about finding out the correct thread pitch for the internal thread?
Also, where can I find a metric heli-coil kit? I apologize for all the questions, but I'm pretty new to shade tree mechanics. Thanks in advance!
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Yes, the hole would have to be drilled and tapped. I would recommend a machine shop that has the right equipment. Try to do it with a hand drill and you'll likely end up with the same problem, only worse now that the hole is larger...
A good machine shop would probably already have the right heli-coils in stock...
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Comments contained in my posts are not intended to cause physical or psychological stress and are mearly my two cents worth, and in this economy, that's cheap!
87 CMX250C 'the Pygmy Pony'
87 CMX450C 'Black Lithium'
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08-30-2010, 09:08 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: venice, fl.
Posts: 626
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The real "shade tree" version is JB weld the stud in place and sell the bike fast! But yes you need a good drill press to do it right.
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08-31-2010, 12:25 AM
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#7
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 19
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Or if you have a tap and dye set tap it next size up
__________________
Intelligence is not a Degree. Intelligence is to take what is obtained from learning and applying it to every day situations with common-sense. It just so happens common-sense is not taught in our schools.
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08-31-2010, 02:17 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Atascadero Ca. 93422
Posts: 1,261
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You will have to pull the lower end out of the bike and take it to a machine shop to put a helicoil in the stripped hole. It may cost a bit but it will save your bike. Or you could ship your bike to Atascadero Ca. and I will be glade to take it off your hands.
I would have the machine shop do the work on the bottom end and bite the bullet on the cost.
Ride safe
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08-31-2010, 04:57 PM
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#9
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Monroe, LA
Posts: 9,027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jax
You will have to pull the lower end out of the bike and take it to a machine shop to put a helicoil in the stripped hole. It may cost a bit but it will save your bike. Or you could ship your bike to Atascadero Ca. and I will be glade to take it off your hands.
I would have the machine shop do the work on the bottom end and bite the bullet on the cost.
Ride safe
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I called first dibs!  
__________________
I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
2001 Rebel 250, 1989 Vulcan 750
Putting your bike info in your signature helps others help you!
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09-02-2010, 12:16 AM
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#10
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Longview Washington
Posts: 113
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DON'T USE HELI-COIL, they SUCK! Use a time-sert, outstanding. They have been used for years on pulled head studs on 2.7 litre Porsche engines(no problem w/metric). At a machine shop you trust. Just my humble opinion as a 20 yr. machinist and a 25 yr. Porsche owner.
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