Start Problem (er... Lack of Starting)

**kjohnson** · 07-27-2010, 10:48 PM

As I have posted often about, I have been having cylinder head problems.
I picked it up from a place Monday morning as a last hope of getting a stud to hold. The guy used an interesting thing, tethering the stud using metal wire. Anyway, I picked it up and rode to school. About 50 miles away.

The head seems to be ok (for now) so my fingers are crossed. However, I get to about 36 miles of the 50 and the engine cuts out. It felt like I ran out of gas (been there done that, bad feeling. haha), but I had just filled it up.

I pulled over, started it up, took off again. A mile or so later, the engine cut again. I tried switching to reserve etc. Still cut out. The third time, I hopped back on, hit the start button and it just clicked. (I also think I saw some thin white smoke coming out from under the seat....).

So now it won't start. It clicks then makes a sound like something spinning to a stop. I'm not sure.

I got a new battery, changed it, same thing.

I have surfed some threads, thinking I should look into the solenoid thing.

RECAP for those, like me, that don't always read the whole thing... haha
-Picked up bike from shop from cylinder head problem
-Engine cut out on the road
-Restarted then cut back out again
-Now wont start
-New battery, same problem

**Guba** · 07-28-2010, 12:23 AM

The clutch/side stand diode is located under the seat. Kinda sounds like the factory installed smoke let loose. There's no way to put it back in, so if it went it'll need replacing. If you saw smoke, then look for the burnt, smoke singed thingy. It should be wrapped with something to make it more protected from vibration.

Have you taken the seat off for a look?

My other thought is a pinched wire under the seat?

**GearJammer** · 07-28-2010, 02:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guba

The clutch/side stand diode is located under the seat. Kinda sounds like the factory installed smoke let loose. There's no way to put it back in, so if it went it'll need replacing. If you saw smoke, then look for the burnt, smoke singed thingy. It should be wrapped with something to make it more protected from vibration.

Have you taken the seat off for a look?

My other thought is a pinched wire under the seat?

Agreed........start with where you think the problem may be.

Some electrical problems are easy to find, some are more difficult to chase down. You might also check the Main Fuse and the negative ground wire from the battery to the frame for tightness.

**kjohnson** · 07-28-2010, 12:53 PM

Ok, I have tried to get the seat off before, to my understanding, you take off the backseat to take off the front seat. I tried taking off the back seat, but the bolt may be stripped or I just need to find a better fitting tool.
Also, when I changed the battery, I tried to unscrew the bolt on top of the battery box, but it just spun and spun and never came out. I felt underneath and it felt like the nut was holding still and not spinning with the bolt. So I unscrewed the battery box from the hinges below and bent it open going in through the bottom.

**Guba** · 07-29-2010, 09:57 AM

On my Reb I use a 10mm socket to remove the rear seat. I'm assuming that the 80's Rebs are the same. And a 12mm socket for the seat.

**kjohnson** · 07-29-2010, 07:23 PM

The 10mm fit, but I can't get the nut to turn, the wrench keeps slipping and I'm afraid of stripping the nut. Any ideas?

Also, I have been snooping around the inside of my rebel and have been tracing wires, etc.
Should I be looking for something specific? I found the origin of that clicking noise, and comparing it to schematics, I derive it to be the starter. Does the fact that it is clicking mean that is it not bad and that i should be looking else where?

Any guidance on what to look for would be appreciated. Thankfully, I can ride my bicycle to work, being that i live on campus. Else, I might be in a bit more trouble. haha

**cagie** · 07-29-2010, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kjohnson

The 10mm fit, but I can't get the nut to turn, the wrench keeps slipping and I'm afraid of stripping the nut. Any ideas?

The nut is welded to the frame IRCC. you might be able to use something to 'push' the end of the bolt while turning the head to see if you can get the threads to bite enough to get it out. If that works and you get it out, check the bolt to see if it is stripped and replace it (local Hdwr store will have metric bolts to match)

**flitecontrol** · 07-29-2010, 08:24 PM

Squirt penetrating fluid on it under the fender and let it soak overnight/all day. Tap the head of the bolt lightly with a hammer every time you go by the bike. Put more penetrating fluid on it. Put an open end wrench on the nut under the fender (one facet of the nut is welded to the fender) to avoid wringing it off and a six point socket, not a twelve point, on the bolt and loosen and tighten it slightly. If you don't have a six point, invest in one or a set. Hit it with the hammer. Repeat alternating between loosening and tightening until you give up in frustration or you can feel it start to give. If you get frustrated, come back later and begin again. It should come out with persistence. If the bolt won't hold a six point socket, you can file the facets down to the next size or try Vise Grips.

When you get them out, replace them with the proper size stainless steel bolts that won't rust. Put blue threadlocker on the threads. It will not only keep the bolts from vibrating loose, it will also seal the threads so the steel nut won't rust onto the SS bolts.

Yes, I was typing while cagie was posting!

**kjohnson** · 07-29-2010, 08:27 PM

IRCC? [extra words to match the min amount of characters]

**flitecontrol** · 07-29-2010, 08:31 PM

If I Recall Correctly is what he meant IB (I believe).