Drain Bolt Stripped/Sheared - Page 7 - Honda Rebel Forum
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post #61 of 69 Old 01-31-2017, 05:19 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by Duckster View Post
Good to hear you got it out,, and even better that the threads are undamaged and you just need a new plug to get back in business.
Word of advice... use a box end or socket wrench on the new plug and don't tighten it so much next time.
ha, wasn't me! the last person that touched it was PO.

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Congratulations. Glad you got it out.
THANK YOU! Me too!

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Originally Posted by SoakedKarma View Post
Wow no wounder the plug was stuck

Glad you got it out
THANK YOU! Me too!

1996 Rebel CMX250C
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post #62 of 69 Old 01-31-2017, 07:48 AM
 
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Wonderful News! I'm guessing PO put it in using their air powered impact wrench set to quicky-oil-change-shop car-tire-lug-nuts strength....

$70 for the heat gun? sorry my friend, wally-world sells them for $20, harbor freight sells them for $13. That washer is the seal, a softer metal than the crankcase and the bolt, under correct torque it elastically deforms the tiniest bit to ensure oil doesn't leak, (like the rubber grommets in the bottom of your toilet tank for the tank-to-bowl-mounting bolts).
Looks like you need a new one of that....
congratulations

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post #63 of 69 Old 01-31-2017, 08:16 AM
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glad to see you got it out without further damage

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post #64 of 69 Old 01-31-2017, 08:25 AM
 
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Great. Glad you got it out and the threads were ok. Don't be too upset, this is something that has happened to just about everybody at one time or another that works on mechanical things. Most of the time things go as planned, sometimes they go terribly wrong. I have had easy outs break off in a stuck bolt, making it impossible to drill the bolt out. I have had to replace a couple of motorcycle engine heads because the header stud broke off flush, and I damaged the head trying to get it out. It happens. Glad it worked for you. I would suggest replacing that washer at every oil change. It is soft aluminum, and it "squishes" when you tighten the oil drain bolt. The next time you change the oil, it will already be squished. They are only $1.99 each. Something else I've done with a number of drain plugs on both bikes and cars is to drill a small hole through the head of the bolt from side to side, and safety wire it in place. That physically holds the plug in place, and it no longer depends on it being really tight.

I am curious where you got that heat gun. I paid around $20 for mine at Home Depot. It gets hot enough to burn paint off. As for all the stuff you bought trying to get that bolt out, it may have been expensive, but you have now either started a tool collection, or added to your existing collection. One cannot have to many tools. I would be completely lost without my Dremel. It is probably the most used power tool I have.
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post #65 of 69 Old 01-31-2017, 09:24 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kryton View Post
That washer is the seal, a softer metal than the crankcase and the bolt, under correct torque it elastically deforms the tiniest bit to ensure oil doesn't leak, (like the rubber grommets in the bottom of your toilet tank for the tank-to-bowl-mounting bolts)
Actually it will seal fine without that washer. It is not primarily a gasket as is evident by the bad condition of the one removed in this case. I've put steel plugs directly into the crankcase on my BMW more than once right after I got it and the washer was missing. It's job is to deform a little as the plug tightens to allow a little more rotation of the plug as it tightens and provide a little more "feel". If its missing, the plug will come up tight very suddenly and the danger of stripping the threads is very real.

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post #66 of 69 Old 01-31-2017, 08:40 PM
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Good to se you beat the sucker well done



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post #67 of 69 Old 02-04-2017, 02:13 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by kryton View Post
Wonderful News! I'm guessing PO put it in using their air powered impact wrench set to quicky-oil-change-shop car-tire-lug-nuts strength....

$70 for the heat gun? sorry my friend, wally-world sells them for $20, harbor freight sells them for $13. That washer is the seal, a softer metal than the crankcase and the bolt, under correct torque it elastically deforms the tiniest bit to ensure oil doesn't leak, (like the rubber grommets in the bottom of your toilet tank for the tank-to-bowl-mounting bolts).
Looks like you need a new one of that....
congratulations
wow! man, i got mine at sears. craftsman. but! i was able to return it, so i am bolt-problem free And outta the hole $70

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Originally Posted by 01-7700 View Post
glad to see you got it out without further damage
thanks!

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Originally Posted by JerryH View Post
Great. Glad you got it out and the threads were ok. Don't be too upset, this is something that has happened to just about everybody at one time or another that works on mechanical things. Most of the time things go as planned, sometimes they go terribly wrong. I have had easy outs break off in a stuck bolt, making it impossible to drill the bolt out. I have had to replace a couple of motorcycle engine heads because the header stud broke off flush, and I damaged the head trying to get it out. It happens. Glad it worked for you. I would suggest replacing that washer at every oil change. It is soft aluminum, and it "squishes" when you tighten the oil drain bolt. The next time you change the oil, it will already be squished. They are only $1.99 each. Something else I've done with a number of drain plugs on both bikes and cars is to drill a small hole through the head of the bolt from side to side, and safety wire it in place. That physically holds the plug in place, and it no longer depends on it being really tight.

I am curious where you got that heat gun. I paid around $20 for mine at Home Depot. It gets hot enough to burn paint off. As for all the stuff you bought trying to get that bolt out, it may have been expensive, but you have now either started a tool collection, or added to your existing collection. One cannot have to many tools. I would be completely lost without my Dremel. It is probably the most used power tool I have.
thank you for the encouragement! i will definitely replace the washer every time. i thought that's what you were supposed to do. the bolt i bought has 2 holes pre-drilled into it, but i'm not sure i understand how to use the safety wire? i am very happy i now own a dremel! i got a craftsman heat gun at sears. but thankfully, i was able to return it and got my $ back. i can't believe how expensive it was.

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Good to se you beat the sucker well done
thank you! i'm so relieved!

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post #68 of 69 Old 02-04-2017, 09:02 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eekmamba View Post
wow! man, i got mine at sears. craftsman. but! i was able to return it, so i am bolt-problem free And outta the hole $70



thanks!



thank you for the encouragement! i will definitely replace the washer every time. i thought that's what you were supposed to do. the bolt i bought has 2 holes pre-drilled into it, but i'm not sure i understand how to use the safety wire? i am very happy i now own a dremel! i got a craftsman heat gun at sears. but thankfully, i was able to return it and got my $ back. i can't believe how expensive it was.



thank you! i'm so relieved!
back in my racing days, they would check for the safety wire in pre-race tech. basically you just run a piece of tie wire thru the hole and then wrap it around something that is fixed to the motor next to the bolt that will keep the bolt from being able to vibrate or twist loose while the wire is there.

http://www.bikebandit.com/blog/post/...why-you-should
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post #69 of 69 Old 02-07-2017, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
 
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back in my racing days, they would check for the safety wire in pre-race tech. basically you just run a piece of tie wire thru the hole and then wrap it around something that is fixed to the motor next to the bolt that will keep the bolt from being able to vibrate or twist loose while the wire is there.

http://www.bikebandit.com/blog/post/...why-you-should
ooh okay thank you for explaining

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